It just doesn't taste the same.

When remembering the holiday feasts they grew up savoring, some folks complain that today's versions "just don't taste as good."

If you're among them, pull up a chair--to the dining table, that is--and try the culinary tips suggested later. First, though, find out why you may not be thrilled with meals by taking a look at the intricate interplay between the senses of smell and taste.

It's not our taste buds.

Your ability to taste remains fairly stable through life. "If there is a taste loss, it's very, very small," says researcher Linda M. Bartoshuk, Ph.D., who studied the ability to detect intensities of the four basic tastes--sweet, salty, sour, and bitter. The taste buds of folks 72 to 94 who participated in her study at Yale University rivaled those of people 20 to 30.

The small measurable deficits in taste that do occur are subtle and probably affect only your ability to detect a weak-tasting solution, says sensory psychologist James M.

Weiffenbach, Ph.D., of the National Institute of Dental Research. Any taste deficits rarely affect enjoying "everyday foods," which have more flavor, he adds.

"Taste remains robust," Weiffenbach says. Rather, the culprit behind what you might perceive as a duller palate simply may be a diminished sense of smell.

Flavors versus aromas.

The properties of many foods that people consider "flavors," such as spearmint or apple, actually are aromas. "Chocolate is an odor," Bartoshuk points out. When your nose gets a whiff of the volatile oils in chocolate, the odor receptors in your upper nasal passages convey the message "Chocolate!" to your brain.

Or odor compounds become trapped in your mouth while you are chewing and travel "the back way" up your throat to your nasal passages. "You're smelling all the time you are eating," explains Bartoshuk.

Scientists speculate that years of repeated upper-respiratory infections and exposure to pollutants and smoke could damage or destroy odor receptors.

"One of the reasons that the smell system is relatively vulnerable is that its receptors are actually nerves with nothing more to protect them than a little bit of mucus," says Beverly Cowart, Ph.D., director of the Taste and Smell Clinic at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia. Although the body does have the ability to make more odor receptors, it's likely that this regenerative process slows down with time, she says.

Causes of smell loss. Head trauma, upper-respiratory infections, and nasal or sinus diseases are the most common causes of loss of smell, but illnesses such as diabetes, bronchial asthma, Alzheimer's, or Parkinson's disease also can put your nose out of joint.

In other cases, medications such as benzocaine, antihistamines, and some antimicrobial drugs--including streptomycin, tetracycline, and ampicillin--can interfere with your ability to smell.

The only treatable smell disorder is a sinus infection, says Cowart. Clogged nasal passages may prevent you from taking in those taste-tempting aromas, and flavors may become confusing or disappear altogether. But appropriate medical treatment--including medication or, in some cases, surgery--should put your sniffer back on track, she adds.

Experts suggest that if you are bothered by problems with taste and smell, check with your physician, dentist, or an ear, nose, and throat specialist. Sometimes the solution is as easy as learning new techniques for improving your oral hygiene.

If your problem is severe, especially if it is interfering with good nutrition, your physician or dentist may refer you to a clinic that specializes in sensory disorders.

If your loss of smell has been gradual and you've been given a clean bill of health, perk up the flavor of food by playing up all the other factors that contribute to the entire experience of eating. Flavor, after all, is the result of taste, smell, temperature, and texture, not to mention visual appeal, learning, and memory.

Cowart offers these suggestions to arouse your appetite:

* Turn up the taste. Tap into receptors in the mouth with ingredients such as lemon juice or peppers, which produce a taste or a "tingle" when you eat.

* Vary the texture of foods. Crunching on a carrot is as pleasing to your palate as sipping soup. Cowart notes that texture is especially stimulating to people with a complete loss of smell owing to congenital defects.

* Cook to keep in flavor. Foods steamed or boiled in covered pans retain more of the aromatic compounds than those grilled or stir-fried.

* Substitute with spices. If you notice a decreased sense of taste, avoid the tendency to increase salt and sugar. Healthier herbs and spices for cooking and liquid flavorings for baking add flavor without increasing your waistline or blood pressure.

* Thicken things up. Cutting back on the liquids will concentrate and intensify the taste of sauces and gravies.

* Quit smoking. This tip is more than a boon for your nose and tongue --your whole body will thank you.

* Take your time. Don't rush through your meals. It's true--you'll get more out of each bite if you chew your food thoroughly.

People don't eat only to build strong bones and fill their stomachs. Because so many social and religious functions revolve around food, breaking bread together gives folks a chance to exchange information and opinions, start new relationships, and strengthen their old ones.

As the saying goes--"The company makes the feast." And Weiffenbach cites a study in which hospitalized patients reported an increased appetite and enjoyment of food when they dined in groups of four at special dining tables rather than by themselves from a bedside tray table.

But with little effort, eating alone can be an enjoyable experience too, and you don't have to be a five-star chef. Take advantage of the many new cookbooks that offer appetizing and quick-to-fix recipes for one or two people. Expand your menus by incorporating one of the new or exotic fruits or vegetables now available.

Or if the mere thought of a time-consuming old standby makes your mouth water, invest an hour or two in preparation, then freeze small portions for future feasts. And remember to update recipes by substituting healthier ingredients where you can.

Whether you're dining in the company of others or alone, do whatever it takes to make your mealtimes special.

Sensational studies. In an effort to unravel the complex mysteries of smell and taste and the role they play in both health and disease, five research centers receive funds from the National Institutes of Health to study disorders of these senses:

* Smell and Taste Research Center, Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania, 3400 Spruce Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104.

* Taste and Smell Center, Connecticut Chemosensory (cq) Clinical Research Center, Farmington, CT 06030.

* State University of New York Health Sciences Center, Syracuse Clinical Olfactory Research Center, 766 Irving Avenue, Syracuse, NY 13210.

* Monell Chemical Sense Center, 3500 Market Street, Philadelphia, PA 19104.

* Rocky Mountain Taste and Smell Center, Box B 111, University of Colorado Health Sciences Center, 4200 E. Ninth Avenue, Denver, CO 80262.