It's not all Greek to you.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

THE NAME Greek Nights beckons in neon brightness atop a building in Sherman Oaks, seemingly promising a Greek dining experience of some sort.

But its Greekness, at least from a culinary aspect, is somewhat suspect.

Which doesn't mean that its food is bad.

It's just that in comparison to the Great Greek, down the street, it leaves a lot to be desired.

A good example is its avgolemono soup ($7).

The traditional Greek chicken, rice and lemon recipe, often thickened with egg, comes forth as a rather thin broth at Greek Nights, lacking the character and depth of the Great Greek version.

Another is a pasty, not very inviting offering of spanakopita ($10), the spinach-stuffed puff pastry turnovers.

Greek Nights, which may be more interested in selling drinks to a late-night supper club crowd than serving memorable food, makes passable versions of both chicken ($21) and lamb ($25) souvlaki, which can be helped by a separate order of tzatziki ($8), the cold yogurt mixture, for dipping purposes.

Probably the best main dish experienced here has been the New York steak ($30) accompanied by a heap of crinkled fries.

Cooked perfectly to order, the medium-rare slab of steak nestled in a brown reduction sauce may have lacked a Greek accent, but rated well above average, whatever its lineage.

A pile of thin, crispy, deep-fried smelts ($10) beforehand and a moist, flavorful rendition of house-baked baklava ($6) afterward more than made up for any missing ethnicity that evening.

Another time, taramasalata ($8) - the traditional Greek fish roe paste easily spread on (or dipped with) pita triangles - provided a nifty pre-entree nosh.

And pan-seared lemon- and garlic-flavor quail with rice can be relatively enjoyable if you don't mind the need for skill with both fingers and teeth when handling the tiny birds.The kitchen also does a pretty good job with lamb chops ($29) - tender, juicy and seasoned nicely.

To its credit, Greek Nights, previously called Rits, has been transformed into a handsome-looking supper club with a dance floor that sports a marble-walled, covered patio on the boulevard.

On its business card, it noticeably calls its cuisine Mediterranean rather than Greek, allowing it, no doubt, some leeway in the kitchen.

As for wines, there aren't many and they range in the high $30s and up. And don't bring your own bottle - it's not allowed here.

The beverage list indicates bottles of booze also can be bought for each table at three-digit prices.

Which means, I would think, that a Greek night, Mediterranean night or any other night at this new Sherman Oaks spot could turn out to be quite expensive.

Of course, Zorba wannabes might think it's worth it as they strut their stuff on the Greek Nights dance floor.

Even on Sunday.

Larry Lipson, [phone]larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

GREEK NIGHTS

Food: Two and one half stars - Service: Three stars - Wine: One star

Where: 13615 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily except Monday, for dinner from 5 p.m. to midnight nightly except Monday, and to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday.

Food type: Mediterranean.

Cost: Starters from $5 to $16, entrees from $21 to $34, desserts $6 and $8 each. Minimum with entertainment $40 per person. Four-course Greek Night feast $45 per person.

Credit cards: All major.

Patio dining: Covered boulevard patio.

Parking/valet: Street and valet parking.

Full bar: Yes.

Wine/corkage: Small list, high prices. Bringing own wine not allowed.

Music/entertainment: Live musical performances from 8 p.m. to midnight Thursday through Sunday, to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Belly dancer featured Friday through Sunday.

Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout. Delivery service planned in future.

Reservations: Suggested, especially on weekends.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1) Greek Nights executive chef Mido Khalili and manager Kristina Kavurmadzian present an assortment of the Sherman Oaks restaurant's menu items.

(2) Greek Nights' generously portioned shrimp cocktail.

Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer