In this collection, many chefs don't spoil the broth.

Byline: Kim Davaz For The Register-Guard

1001 Foods to Die For

Introduced by Corby Kummer

(Andrews McMeel, $39.95 hardcover)

"1001 Foods to Die For," introduced by Corby Kummer, is an encyclopedia of foods in a speedy tour around the world. This book touches on food and drink from the extravagant and fabulous (caviar and Champagne plus a list of the 25 best foods to nibble while sipping Champagne) to the simple and homey (over-easy eggs and vanilla ice cream).

The foods are arranged by type. Some entries have recipes, some don't. Either way, it's a pleasure to read through the book, stopping to cook or eat along the way.

Many writers contributed to "1001 Foods to Die For," sharing their passion about their subjects. In the entry on lychee fruit in the "Fruits, Nuts and Vegetables" section, the writer says, "Lychees are best when eaten by the dozen, fresh from the stem" and mentions a variety called "the imperial concubine's laugh." Can you tell this writer loves lychees?

An entry on a food I love, Battenberg Cake, is in the "Breads, Cakes and Pastries" section. The book says this pink-and-white checkerboard cake put together with apricot jam and wrapped in marzipan should not be made at home, and there isn't a recipe here. The Battenberg Cakes I've eaten have been packaged but were so good, I will continue my search for a recipe or a source that doesn't require a passport to purchase it.

There are lots of color photos, not necessarily of the foods with recipes. A pretty photo of biscotti is opposite a recipe for Chocolate-Hazelnut Biscotti, but the biscotti in the photo has pistachio nuts and possibly dried cranberries. It would be easy to make substitutions to the recipe to match the photo.

It's the little facts and bits of history that I find so interesting here. The entry for the biscotti recipe says the slicing and oven-drying of biscotti (which means twice-baked) was done originally as a means of preservation so the food wouldn't mold.

A Greek saying quoted in the entry on Lemonata Potatoes maintains that you can add olive oil, lemon juice and oregano to sawdust and it will taste good. That may well be, but try it on chunks or wedges of potatoes instead. A little salt is nice, too. This is an entry without a detailed recipe, but you can figure it out from the description.

You can open the book to any page and find some item of interest, whether you like the food or not. Whether the foods are to die for or not is a matter of preference. I don't know many people who would put broccoli or eggs in that category. Broccoli and eggs are good, but are they to die for?

In the index, those of the 1001 foods with recipes have page numbers in bold type. A cross-reference by country would have been a nice addition.

Surrounding the index are lists of contributing writers and recipe credits. It's the Who's Who of the food world, including Julia Child, Mario Batali, Elizabeth David, Donna Hay, Marcella Hazan, Madhur Jaffrey, Nigella Lawson, Nigel Slater and Alice Waters.

Those two lists will give you a start on the search for recipes not found in "1001 Foods to Die For." I like a book that sends you off in other directions to find out more.

Keep this book in the kitchen for reference. It also would be a good gift for someone wanting an introduction to the possibilities of unfamiliar foods, or for someone who loves trivia.

Naan is an Indian flat bread made with yeast that would be a nice accompaniment to many dishes, Indian or not.

Since most people won't have access to a tandoor or clay oven, this naan is cooked quickly on a hot griddle. When covering the dough, be sure to use a smooth cotton or linen tea or dish towel. A terry-cloth towel can get stuck in the dough.

Naan lends itself to many toppings: garlic, browned onions, herbs and spices. I brushed some leftover naan with butter, sprinkled it thickly with cinnamon sugar and cooked it in a toaster oven until the sugar was bubbly. Not very Indian, but it was very good with hot tea and hot cocoa after playing in the cold.

Naan

1 package (1/4 ounce) active dry yeast

1 cup warm water

1/4cup sugar

3 tablespoons milk

1 egg, beaten

2 teaspoons salt

41/2cups bread flour, sifted

1/4cup butter, melted

In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water. Leave for 10 minutes, until frothy.

Add the sugar, milk, egg, salt and sufficient flour to form a soft dough.

Knead the dough until smooth - 6 to 8 minutes. Place in an oiled glass bowl and cover with a clean, damp tea towel. Leave to rise for 1 hour.

Punch the dough down, then make 14 balls about the size of a golf ball.

Place the dough balls on a platter, cover with the clean, damp tea towel, and leave to double in size, about 30 minutes.

Place a griddle over high heat and brush with oil.

Roll dough ball out into a thin circle, place on the griddle and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until nicely puffy and light brown in color.

Brush the uncooked side with a little melted butter and turn over. Now brush the cooked side with butter.

Brown the uncooked side for 3 minutes and remove from the griddle. Repeat with the remaining dough and serve.

Makes 14 flat breads.

Kim Davaz of Eugene writes a biweekly cookbook review column.