In a pickle.

So, exactly what does it mean to be in a pickle? Or simply, what, is a pickle? Most of us would recognize it as a green Kirby variety cucumber, marinated in vinegar, salt, sugar, and spices. Actually any type of cucumber or just about any vegetable could be pickled. It is a process by which fresh produce is preserved for later consumption through the combination of some form of vinegar and/or brine and sugar. There are different versions of this basic process, with variations on vinegar types, proportion ratios, and ingredients. Each method has its own place and appeals to different sets of taste buds. Pickling certainly is an art form and tradition in American culinary annals. Sadly, it has a slightly diminished stature due, in part, to the explosive growth of the fresh produce industry, aided by modern inventions of refrigeration and truck transportation. Consumers prefer the fresher alternative, even if it has been shipped from distant locations in the world. Also influencing pickling's place is the development in the Twentieth Century of mass-produced, canned goods. No longer do folks have to rely so heavily on former practices of food preservation, such as pickling, tanning, and drying.

Humans have been pickling for centuries, with the practice probably originating in Asia and moving across Europe and into the Americas. It was likely born from a situation of necessity, as civilizations sought food stocks for the lean times of winter. Pickling, along with canning, is a proud mountain tradition, as our predecessors in the hills worked hard to put food on the table year-round. Along the way, we have discovered the wonderful flavors that are achieved through various types of marinating and infusing herbs and spices. Some like it savory, others prefer something sweet. There are limitless combinations.

Pickled products are not necessarily right for everyone, due to their high acidity and/or saltiness and sugar content. They are best enjoyed in moderation. As well, one must be careful to avoid any potential contaminations wrought by bacteria. If you are planning to store your veggies for longer periods of time it is very important to follow all prudent guidelines for sanitizing, sealing, etc. There are many authoritative resources available for the aspiring picklers. Please take plenty of precaution, as Botulism, a type of food poisoning, is most unpleasant and potentially deadly.

There is in recent years a small but growing popularity of raw foods in the Southeast. This is a local occurrence of a larger, national development, as more individuals adopt diets emphasizing pure, non-cooked forms of foods. Pickling offers an easy and convenient form of preparing such dishes. Some raw foodists may be sensitive to the acidity and saltiness of traditionally prepared pickles. However, the same end result can be achieved through a natural fermentation, by relying on the product's inherent natural enzymes to foster healthy bacteria growth. Raw sauerkraut thus would be a common staple amongst this crowd.

Pickled veggies make remarkable contributions to many meals. For me, potato salad is not the same without some diced pickles. How about sushi without a little pickled ginger? What would a Cuban sandwich he without the pickle slices? Being raised north of the Mason-Dixie line I had never been exposed to battered, fried pickles, as a condiment alongside a sandwich or burger until recently. My first thought was, gross. Now I love them, albeit reserved for special occasions. I remember my first Half Sour at a Jewish delicatessen in LA; I realized the simplicity of the quick pickled method. It had a special crunch and liveliness that surpassed all previous pickles.

My most cherished pickle memory though would be of Tres Amigos Mexican restaurant in Half Moon Bay, California. This traditional burrito shrine offers its patrons generous servings and complimentary jars of sliced carrots, onions, jalapenos, and cauliflower on each table, right alongside the salt and pepper. Those spicy veggies balanced and completed the meal. That's the role of these briny creations; they lend a unique comparative texture and acidity to savory meals, thereby offer the taste buds a well-rounded experience.

If you are not able to make your own homemade version, there is a vast array of local producers and vendors ready to satisfy your needs. At the most farmer's markets, pickled products are as plentiful and diverse as anywhere in rural Pennsylvania, a region known for its Dutch settlers' lasting legacy. Any respectable roadside produce stand will have a modest inventory of the legendary Chow Chow, a broad term referring to any pickled mixture of veggies. Old classics would be okra or green beans and squash. Area tailgate markets also usually host a few artisan picklers. These are my preferred sources, as I enjoy a locally (most likely organically) produced product and the chance to chat with the individual behind the label.

My inaugural attempt at pickling is solely based on what's here as I'm writing this article, in mid-August, in my backyard garden. I followed some rudimentary recipes that required little effort and the safety afforded by a highly acidic bath. My first quart contains red and green Serrano's, yellow Tabasco's, red and green Jalapenos, white onion, Sicilian Garlic, thyme, rosemary, white wine vinegar, and salt. The second is a simpler version with burpless cucumber, white sugar, salt and garlic. The third is colorful mixture of sliced yellow crookneck squash, red Anaheim and Fresno Chiles, and more garlic and yellow onion. I don't know what to expect of these concoctions. It ought be fun to sample them after letting them sit for a week or so. Next time maybe it will be some more bizarre combination? Pickled Butternut or Pumpkin? For me, that seems to be the joy of pickling; it encourages creativity and chance. It captures that moment in the growing season when there's just too much of this and that, and safely tucks the harvest away for another day in a delicious marinade of vinegar and salt and spice.

References:

(1.) The Big Book of Preserving The Harvest: Carol W. Costenbader

(2.) Vegetables: James Peterson.

Rob Everett is Produce Department Manager at Greenlife Grocery in Asheville, NC.

My Great--grandmother Fairley used to make these green tomato pickles over 100 years ago. Please enjoy this heirloom recipe from my family to yours.--Teresa Soule, New Life Journal Editorial Manager

Green Tomato Pickles

1/2 peck tomatoes, sliced *
Mix with 1/2 cup salt and let stand overnight.
Drain in morning and add 6 sliced onions
2 Tablespoons prepared mustard
2 Cups brown sugar
add enough vinegar to cover

Simmer four hours and bottle. (You may need to add
more vinegar during the simmering process to keep
from burning.) Put a bag of pickling spice in the boiling
mixture for about an hour; if you want spicier
pickles, keep the bag in longer.

* If you want the tomatoes to stay in slices, cut the
tomatoes thick, mix with salt, and let stand for about
two days. You need to have them drain into another
container so they don't sit in their own juice.
Try using a few cake pans with two to three inch
sides. Spread out cheese cloth in each pan, and then
secure to the sides with clothespins, making sure
that the cheesecloth is pulled tight and the tomatoes
don't touch the bottom of the pan.

On third day, simmer tomatoes for about an hour in
above brine recipe and let cool a little before bottling.

Both methods make approximately seven pints.
Can add another 1/2 cup of sugar if sweeter pickles
are desired.