IT'S PRIME TIME AT CHARLIE G'S.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

Prime-quality beef as designated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) is hard to find in suburban restaurants.

That's because prime steaks are not only expensive, but they often contain more marbling than those certified as choice, which translates into less lean.

But passionate, knowledgeable steak eaters know that it's that marbling - actually fat, there's no getting around it - that ensures better flavor.

Of all those restaurants along Ventura Boulevard, you'd have thought more than a few would be using prime steaks.

But only one, a Texas-style barbecue house called El Paso Barbeque Co., has ventured into this arena on any kind of regular basis until recently.

Now, there's an honest-to-goodness prime steakery on the Valley's restaurant row. And it even has one of those New Yorkish-sounding names: Charlie G's Prime Steakhouse.

Charlie G. is Charlie Gallo, a veteran local restaurateur and caterer with places like Nob Hill, Goodbye Charlie's and the Knollwood Country Club on his resume.

Gallo and his partners have done an excellent job of making the former Tony & Luigi's/Brio/Superstars/Weiler's space into a comfortable facsimile of a clubby Eastern-style steak and chop house.

You'll really like the acoustics here.

The semi-circular booths, several of them with divider arrangements, tend to defray conversation noise from neighboring booths, allowing four or five people to talk to each other in fairly modest tones and hear every word.

Even at the regular dining room tables, diners don't have to shout to be heard.

Not that it's a pin-drop quiet place. There's that welcome clatter and buzz background one expects to hear in a busy dining room. But thankfully, the decibel measurement would be extremely modest compared to the screech level at many of this town's most fashionable dining spots.

As for the food and service, they seem to improve at each visit.

The steaks have all been perfectly cooked as ordered, tender, juicy cuts, from the smallest filet mignon ($18.95) to the largest New York strip ($26.95), as well as the interesting 10-ounce culotte ($17.95) and 14-ounce rib-eye ($23.95).

In some cases though, the supposed superior flavor of prime grade over choice may be difficult to gauge. It would be easier if both grades were being tasted at the same time.

Be aware that this doesn't mean that Charlie G's falters steakwise, especially since its prices are similar to steakhouses elsewhere that feature lower-cost, choice Angus beef.

At this restaurant, there's no doubt you're getting your money's worth much of the time.

Additionally, you won't go wrong with the house veal chop ($27.95), an impeccably cooked piece of tender white veal on the bone, nicely presented with either a porcini mushroom sauce or simple, fresh herbs.

Other worthwhile picks are the juicy, grilled lamb chops ($27.95) from Colorado, thoughtfully flavored with fresh thyme and roasted garlic, and the free-range roast chicken ($15.95) prepared with a whole-grain mustard sauce and paired with steamed spinach.

The spinach here, by the way, can be controversial.

Three of seven a la carte vegetable accompaniments are spinach: sauteed spinach with garlic ($3.95), mushrooms and spinach ($4.25) and creamed spinach ($4.25).

Surprisingly, the latter is not the traditional American recipe but rather spinach leaves resting in cream.

Consequently, one disappointed patron who ordered creamed spinach sent it back one night.

This was not the creamy chopped spinach mixture with which she was familiar.

Potatoes appear to be better received.

That may be because potato fanciers have seven ways to order their spuds ($3.95 to $4.50).

Ditto for happy salad lovers who get to choose from five basic a la carte offerings. Probably, the old-fashioned iceberg wedge with Maytag bleu cheese earns the No. 1 spot, while the Caesar is merely so-so. But they'rTe all shareable.

If you prefer a soup to start, the roasted corn chowder ($4.50) gets my nod over the pasta e fagioli ($4.95), but only if it's the thicker version.

One evening, the chowder came up awfully thin, was sent back and eventually redelivered thicker, this time brimming with corn and other vegetables.

As for the signature offering, it's an enigma here.

Charlie G's large, fried Australian lobster tail dish has been dubbed the ``house specialty,'' and ticketed at $46.95.

Though it's easily enough for two conservative appetites, it is not presented as a platter for two.

Indeed, for this price something more elaborate is expected. And though by itself the lobster tends to be dryish, both the honey-mustard dipping sauce and the container of drawn butter served with it help moisten each bite.

Perhaps if some sliced steak and vegetables were added for another $10 as a dramatic presentation for two, the restaurant would provide a signature dinner worth talking about. In its present form, the lobster just seems to be an overly expensive indulgence.

As for service, the staffers and hosts obviously try hard to please. And they come through respectably most of the time.

Best buy on the wine list of a red to pair with a steak order: '96 Clos du Bois cabernet sauvignon ($20).

Desserts consist mostly of those perfectly sculpted goodies presented on a tray as samples for inspection. I'd stick with the house creme brulee ($4.50).

All in all, Charlie G's is certainly a welcome prime-time addition to the local restaurant scene, and though it doesn't quite reach Arnie Morton's and Ruth's Chris standards yet, it, like its steaks, should get even better with a bit of age.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Charlie G's Prime Steakhouse.

Where: 18663 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana.

When: Open for dinner only from 5:30 to around 10:30 p.m. nightly.

Behind the scenes: Charlie G. is Charlie Gallo, host and co-owner. Chef is Kazem ``Kaz'' Nematpour. CoT-owner is Jack Mandato. Maitre d' is Michel Peretz.

Recommended items: Any steak, veal chop, lamb chops, roast chicken, crab cake, wedge of iceberg salad, steak fries, sauteed mushrooms, creme brulee.

How much: Starters from $4.50 to $12.50, entrees from $11 to $47, desserts $4.50 each. Full bar. All major credit cards.

Wine list: Five-page starting list deserves credit for general depth and obvious markup restraint. However, certain prestige Californian and French names are favored (Clos du Bois, Stag's Leap, Ferrari-Carano, Drouhin), leaving no room for good, lesser-known, less-expensive labels. Only two wines priced under $21. Corkage $10.

Reservations: Suggested. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three stars for food; Three stars for service; Two and one half stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: Chef Kazem ``Kaz'' Nematpour shows off the asparagus and hearts of palm starter and the iceberg wedge salad at Charlie G's Prime Steakhouse, with co-owners Charlie Gallo, left, and Jack Mandato behind him.

John Lazar/Daily News