IT'S HOMEY AT PLACE FOR STEAK : NAME TELLS NO LIE, BUT THERE'S LAMB, FISH AND SEAFOOD, TOO.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

A brave venture, the Place for Steak is a comfy, converted residence on a quiet stretch of Burbank Boulevard a dozen blocks west of downtown Burbank.

Once the home of La Bamba - a colorful Carib cafe - then briefly Cody's Landing Strip - a pork chop, meat loaf and apple pie kind of place - the small building housing the Place for Steaks offers a warm and homey environment with green carpeting, rose-hued walls, lace cafe curtains and sturdy black metal chairs.

I term it brave because, although its pricing at first glance seems relatively modest, it doesn't take much of an effort to spend between $30 and $40 a person for a complete dinner, especially if the meatier items are ordered.

Which means that this neighborhood eating spot is competing with many of the major destination dineries, both independent and chain.

One needs bravery for such an involvement.

An initial visit revealed relatively good soups (cups $2.50, bowls $3.95) - the house clam chowder, a mite floury, but filled with clam pieces and in general, nicely executed; and a du jour mushroom mixture, creamy and full-flavored.

And both steaks - a juicy New York covered with onions and mushrooms ($14.95) and a pleasant enough porterhouse with a creamy mushroom sauce ($18.95) - though a trifle slow in arriving, provided the basic beef gratification expected.

Yet at another time, when prime rib ($17.95) and rack of lamb ($22.95) were two of the entrees of choice, both meats were delivered overcooked, actually medium to medium well though asked for medium rare and pink.

Which was a shame because they both appeared to be of decent quality.

However, on the same evening three seafood main courses, a shrimp ``scampi'' plate ($14.95), Cajun-style sea bass ($12.95) and one of the many specials of the day, a grilled salmon with beurre blanc and capers ($24.95), were all deemed acceptable, the flaky sea bass fillets being particularly impressive in both texture and taste.

For those who can't resist crab cakes as a starter ($4.95), the little patties here are merely passable, obviously pasty from filler, but at this price hardly expected to match the best in town.

The kitchen's calamari fritti ($4.95), though not a large portion, probably does compare favorably with most restaurants' renditions, which are 40 percent higher in price. And I certainly like the spicy dipping sauce.

As for those legions of Caesar salad fanciers, they might note that this one ($6.95) is enough for two to share, though, like most kitchen-prepared Caesars these days, the plate amounts to merely a heaping of freshly torn romaine leaves tossed with what appears to be institutional dressing and institutional croutons, even if the Parmesan is premises-grated.

Respectable garlic mashed potatoes, a baked potato, fries or rice pilaf accompany most entrees. And there are correctly cooked vegetables as well.

Service can be diffident at times, although there seems to be an underlying concern to please.

Desserts include occasional tableside flambe creations in the manner of all those yesteryear continental spots, which, of course, add bucks to the bill, creating even more of an impression of uptown prices.

Yet conversely, the tables here are glass-topped, giving a brasserie or bistro-cafe look to the dining room.

So it's a bit of a mixed message you receive.

Neighborhood restaurants ensure repeat business from locals when they emphasize their least expensive, rather than the higher ticket meals. The Place for Steak lists at least half a dozen entrees priced under $12 that could easily project an inviting value-quality perception.

Pushing them instead of the expensive dishes would be smart.

As well as brave.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: The Place for Steak.

Where: 1220 W. Burbank Blvd., Burbank.

When: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, for dinner from 4:30 to 10:30 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday, from 5 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Fried calamari, clam chowder, New York and porterhouse steaks, Cajun-style sea bass.

How much: Starters range from $2.50 to $7, entrees from $10 to $25, desserts from $5 to $6.50. Beer and wine. AE, MC, V.

Wine list: There are some reasonably priced Chilean reds, merlots and a cabernet priced as low as $14 and $16 a bottle. Owner said he intends to keep markups to twice wholesale or less. Current list features mostly well-known labels. There are some off-list closeouts at bargain prices as well. Corkage: $8.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Two and One-half Stars for food; Two and One-half Stars for service; Three Stars for wine.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

PHOTO Manager Reuben Perez, left, owner/chef Philip Michael and cook Hans Burnett are in the house - yes, a converted residence - at the Place for Steak in Burbank.

David Sprague/Daily News