IT`S HIP TO DIP; FONDUE RETURNS TO FRONT BURNER.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Daily News Food Editor

Just as fashions in clothes, music and other facets of life come and go, so do fashions in food. And with things retro ``in'' and chic these day, everything old is new again. So it's not surprising that fondue - fashionable in the '60s and '70s - is making a return appearance.

And why not? Dip dining is convenient, fun, easy on the hostess and great for entertaining a small, intimate group in a casual, participatory dining experience.

Rick Rodgers, author of the recently released ``Fondue, Great Food to Dip, Dunk, Savor and Swirl'' (William Morrow; $14), attributes the renewed interest in fondue ``to a whole new generation of cooks who are finding out how much fun it is and how easy it is. I knew fondue was making a comeback when I went to an industry gourmet products show two years ago and saw mountains of new very sturdy, extremely well-made fondue pots made by the Cadillacs of the equipment business like Le Creuset and Calphalon.''

Sales of fondue pots have increased 20 percent yearly for the last three years, according to Ann Knutson, manager of public relations at the West Bend Company in West Bend, Wis. Today's pots are basically the same as those that have been around since the '60s, but with updated styling that includes a nonstick interior and a dishwasher-safe pot.

At Le Creuset, fondue pots sales are also on the rise (20 percent growth in the last two years), said Doug Richardson, vice president of marketing. ``What's driving the renewed interest is the idea of breaking bread together and sharing a meal that fits with the home entertainment trends that we've seen for over a decade now.''

Casual, laid back, hassle-free, uncomplicated, relaxing entertaining is what people are interested in these days, noted Barbara Caplan, a partner in the Norwalk, Conn.-based Yankelovich Partners Inc., a market research firm that measures how people live, how they approach food and their attitudes. ``People want to be hosts, not chefs. They want to create a pleasant experience.''

The resurgence of fondue is in part due to younger families serving it who are remembering it from their childhood, said Marlys Bielunski, director of food communications for the National Cattlemen's Beef Association in Chicago.

``It is a good way to participate in a meal. ... It is a slow way to eat and have conversation.''

Bielunski doesn't think the interest in fondue today will rise to the level of the '60s and '70s, but ``it is probably filling a niche to bring families and couples together to have an effortless but meaningful, fun evening with social interaction.''

Fondue's popularity is also on the rise on the local restaurant dining scene. At La Fondue Bourguignonne in Sherman Oaks, owner Robert Chicha noted, ``Last year was our best year ever, and this year is off to a good start. More people are family oriented - and the restaurant is a good place to bring teen-agers. People like a fondue meal because it is active, keeps them busy and offers something to do at the table. The food is hot all the time - and you can take your time eating. It can also be very romantic,'' he added.

A French native, Chicha opened his first fondue restaurant in Westwood in 1970 (it closed in 1990) while the dish was at its height of popularity. ``I decided to serve beef fondue because the restaurant kitchen was too small for conventional cooking. With fondue, most of the cooking is done in the dining room - not the kitchen.'' Even though the restaurant has had its ups and downs over the years, Chicha has stuck with fondue because of the customer following and his belief in the concept.

In the beginning, Chicha served only beef fondue (with oil) but added cheese and chocolate fondues to the menu more than 15 years ago. About 10 years ago, with the increased interest in healthy dining, he began offering a wine-based broth cooking mixture.

The complete dinner is the most popular menu selection. It includes cheese fondue as an appetizer, a salad, an entree fondue (with chicken breast, scallops, shrimp or filet mignon or a combination) with a choice of either cottonseed oil or broth for cooking, and chocolate fondue for dessert. Five dipping sauces - sweet and sour with pineapple, tomato sauce with parsley and garlic, bearnaise sauce, sour cream and chives (with garlic salt) and a house sauce (cream, garlic and nutmeg) - accompany the entrees.

Chicha serves the cheese fondue with cut-up day old French bagette cubes, cornichons, small cooked potatoes and fresh mushroom quarters. Chocolate fondue dippers include marshmallows and thin wafer cookies along with an assortment of in-season fresh fruits such as strawberries, bananas, pineapple, grapes, blueberries, melons, apple, plums, tangerines, nectarines or apricots.

The restaurant uses candles to heat the chocolate or cheese fondues in ceramic pots. Broth and oil fondues are heated in metal fondue pots placed over electric heating elements built into the dining tables.

``Fondue is not a fad - it is a classic, and it is here to stay,'' said Rodgers. But there's more to the fondue of the '90s than the traditional trio of favorites.

In his cookbook, Rodgers has tossed an explosion of updated flavors and ingredients - like roast garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, fresh ginger, balsamic vinegar, designer mushrooms, capers, smoked salmon, goat cheese, mascarpone, gorgonzola and more - into the appetizer and entree fondue pot with mouthwatering results.

Gorgonzola, Port and Walnut Fondue, Sun-Dried Tomato Pizza Fondue, Duck Fondue With Asian Orange Sauce and Swordfish Fondue With Tapenade Mayonnaise are just a few of the many tempting-sounding creations. And in the dessert realm, it may be difficult to resist a terrific Fresh Cherries Jubilee Fondue, Tiramisu Mascarpone Fondue or Peach Caramel Fondue.

Rodgers, who ranks the fabulous Peanut Butter and Milk Chocolate and the incredible Italian Fontina and Porcini fondues among his favorites, puts many new faces on the traditional topic with his more than 50 innovative ideas.

When it comes to serving cheese-style fondues (he prefers them to fried fondues, which require longer cooking time) for an entree, Rodgers always offers guests a platter of vegetables, cooked shrimp, cooked chicken breast and cooked roast beef in addition to bread cubes. In addition, he always serves a chunky salad like romaine with grapefruit, cucumbers, sweet onions and a nice vinaigrette so people get filled up. Rodgers prefers to serve only one fondue creation per meal - not two or three. If the entree is fondue, dessert will be something else - not a sweet fondue.

Grab that old fondue pot off the shelf in your closet or purchase a new, stylish one and get cooking. Fondue is back in vogue.

CLASSIC SWISS THREE-CHEESE FONDUE

Swiss cheese shops combine different shredded cheeses to make their own proprietary fondue mixes. This version uses three of Switzerland's greatest cheeses: Gruyere for its full flavor, Emmentaler for nuttiness and Appenzeller for sharpness. If you can get only one or two of these cheeses, don't worry - use about 1 pound (trimmed weight) of whatever you can get and make your own house blend. It will still be delicious.

1 garlic clove

1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

8 ounces Gruyere cheese, rind trimmed and discarded and shredded (about 2 1/2 cups)

8 ounces Emmentaler cheese, rind trimmed and discarded and shredded (about 2 1/2 cups)

3 ounces Appenzeller cheese, cut into small cubes (about 1/2 cup)

4 teaspoons cornstarch 

1 tablespoon kirsch 

Few gratings of fresh nutmeg

Freshly ground pepper to taste

Choice of dipping ingredients: crusty mixed-grain bread, French OR Italian bread, cut into bite-size cubes (leave a piece of crust on EACH cube); skinless cooked chicken breast; boiled new potatoes; blanched asparagus spears, broccoli florets OR cauliflower florets

Rub inside of a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan with garlic; discard garlic. Add wine and lemon juice and bring to a bare simmer over medium heat.

In a medium bowl, toss Gruyere, Emmentaler and Appenzeller cheeses with cornstarch. A handful at a time, stir cheese mixture into wine, stirring first batch until it is almost completely melted before adding another. Fondue can bubble gently, but do not boil. Stir in kirsch and season with nutmeg and pepper.

Transfer to a cheese fondue pot and keep warm over a fondue burner. Serve immediately, with dipping ingredients of your choice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

AMERICAN SWISS CHEESE FONDUE: Domestic Swiss cheese is not as fully matured as imported Swiss cheese, but it can make a fine fondue. Substitute 1 pound domestic Swiss cheese, cut into tiny cubes; finely shredded, for the Gruyere, Emmentaler and Appenzeller cheeses.

From ``Fondue, Great Food to Dip, Dunk, Savor and Swirl'' by Rick Rodgers (William Morrow and Co.)

CALIFORNIA ARTICHOKE, RED PEPPER AND MONTEREY JACK FONDUE

Monterey Jack is a great fondue cheese, melting into a smooth, thick creaminess. This fondue is chunky with the flavors of Northern California - artichokes, garlic, red peppers and, of course, wine. It makes a big batch for a large group of friends.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 medium red bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 package (10 ounces) thawed artichoke harts, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary OR 1 teaspoon crumbled dried rosemary

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme OR 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 cup dry white wine

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 pound Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (5 cups)

2 ounces freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (1/2 cup)

1 tablespoon cornstarch

Freshly ground pepper to taste

Choice of dipping ingredients: crusty sourdough bread, cut into bite-size cubes (leave a piece of crust on EACH cube); cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined; skinned cooked chicken breast cubes; blanched asparagus spears; raw celery sticks; raw fennel bulb, cut into sticks; small mushroom caps OR boiled new potatoes

In a large skillet over medium heat, heat oil. Add onion, red pepper and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in artichoke hearts, rosemary and thyme. Cook, stirring often, until heated through, about 2 minutes.

Transfer artichoke mixture to a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan. Add wine and lemon juice and bring to a simmer over medium heat.

In a medium bowl, toss cheeses with cornstarch. Gradually stir cheese mixture into saucepan, stirring until first addition is melted before adding another. Season with pepper.

Transfer fondue to a ceramic or enameled cast-iron fondue pot and keep warm over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with dipping ingredients of your choice. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From ``Fondue, Great Food to Dip, Dunk, Savor and Swirl'' by Rick Rodgers (William Morrow and Co.)

GERMAN SAUSAGE FONDUE WITH APPLE BUTTER MUSTARD

Serve this fondue with a few different kinds of sausages and a selection of mustard-based sauces, completing the meal German-style with a bowl of potato salad.

APPLE BUTTER MUSTARD:

1/3 cup high-quality apple butter (made from only apples and cider)

1/3 cup Dijon mustard

FONDUE:

Solid vegetable shortening for deep-frying

2 pounds assorted sausages, such as knockwurst, bockwurst, bratwurst and kielbasa, cut into wedges about 1/2-inch thick

For Apple Butter Mustard, in a small bowl, combine apple butter and mustard. Cover and let stand at room temperature at least 1 hour for flavors to blend. (Mustard can be prepared up to 3 days ahead, covered and refrigerated. Serve at room temperature.) Makes 2/3 cup.

For Fondue, melt enough vegetable shortening in a metal fondue pot to come halfway up sides. Heat over high heat on stove top until a deep-frying thermometer reads 375 degrees F. Transfer pot to a fondue burner with a high flame.

Allow guests to cook their own sausages until browned around edges. Serve with Apple Butter Mustard and any additional sauces desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From ``Fondue, Great Food to Dip, Dunk, Savor and Swirl'' by Rick Rodgers (William Morrow and Co.)

SWORDFISH FONDUE WITH TAPENADE MAYONNAISE

Swordfish is a good candidate for fondue, owing to its firm flesh. Tapenade mayonnaise is a perfect match.

TAPENADE MAYONNAISE:

1/2 cup pitted black Mediterranean olives

2 tablespoons bottled capers, rinsed

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

3 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and chopped OR 1 teaspoon anchovy paste 

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon Cognac OR brandy

1 garlic clove, crushed through a press

1/4 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper flakes

1/2 cup homemade OR store-bought mayonnaise

FONDUE:

Solid vegetable shortening, for deep-frying

2 pounds (1/4-inch thick) swordfish steaks, cut into 3/4-inch cubes

For Tapenade Mayonnaise, combine olives, capers, mustard, anchovies, lemon juice, Cognac, garlic and red pepper flakes in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse until mixture becomes a coarse paste. Transfer to a small bowl.

Stir in mayonnaise. Cover and let stand at room temperature at least 1 hour for flavors to blend. (Mayonnaise can be prepared up to 3 days ahead of serving, covered and refrigerated. Serve at room temperature.) Makes about 1 cup.

For Fondue, melt enough vegetable shortening in a metal fondue pot to come halfway up sides. Heat over high heat on stove top until a deep-frying thermometer reads 375 degrees F. Transfer pot to a fondue burner with a high flame.

Allow guests to cook swordfish just until browned around edges - do not overcook. Serve with Tapenade Mayonnaise, along with any additional sauces, such as Greek, Yogurt and Cucumber Sauce (recipe follows), as desired. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From ``Fondue, Great Food to Dip, Dunk, Savor and Swirl'' by Rick Rodgers (William Morrow and Co.)

APPLE CIDER-CHEDDAR FONDUE

4 cups (about 1 pound) sharp shredded Cheddar cheese

1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 1/4 cups sparkling apple cider

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

For dipping: bite-size pieces of cooked chicken OR pork sausage; waffle pieces; pizzelles (thin Italian cookies); apple wedges

In a medium bowl, toss cheese with cornstarch.

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat cider and lemon juice over medium heat until barely simmering. Add cheese, a handful at a time, stirring until cheese is melted before adding more. When all cheese has been added, stir in salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and pepper to taste. Cook over low heat until thickened, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Transfer fondue to an enamel or ceramic fondue pot and keep warm over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with your choice of dipping foods. Makes 10 servings.

RED PEPPER-DILL SWISS FONDUE

1 1/2 cups (about 6 ounces) shredded Swiss cheese

1 1/2 cups (about 6 ounces) shredded domestic Gruyere OR Gouda cheese

1/4 cup (about 1 ounce) grated Parmesan cheese

2 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

1 cup diced red bell pepper

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

1 cup vegetable OR chicken broth

1 cup milk

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill OR 2 teaspoons dried dill

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Salt and ground white pepper to taste

For dipping: assorted filled ravioli, prepared according to package directions, drained

In a medium bowl, toss cheese with cornstarch.

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, cook red pepper in butter over medium heat, 2 to 3 minutes. Add broth and milk and heat until barely simmering. Stir in lemon juice. Add cheese, a handful at a time, stirring until cheese is melted before adding more. When all cheese has been added, stir in dill, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Transfer fondue to an enamel or ceramic fondue pot and keep warm over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with cooked warm raviolis. Makes 8 or more servings.

PIZZA FONDUE

8 ounces (about 1/2 pound) lean ground beef OR Italian sausage

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 1/2 cups pizza sauce

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

2 teaspoons dried oregano 

1/2 cup (about 2 ounces) grated Parmesan cheese

1 cup (about 4 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese

For dipping: bread sticks and cubes of crusty French OR Italian bread

In a large saucepan, cook beef and garlic over medium heat until no longer pink. Drain off fat. Stir in pizza sauce and spices. Cook over medium heat until hot but not boiling.

Combine cheeses and stir into meat mixture until melted.

Transfer fondue to an enamel or ceramic fondue pot and keep warm over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with bread sticks or bread cubes. Makes 8 servings.

HONEY-BLUE CHEESE FONDUE

1/2 cup whipping cream

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 cups (8 ounces) blue OR gorgonzola cheese, crumbled

3 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons chopped and toasted walnuts

For dipping: Fresh figs, dates, apricots and apples (OR other fresh/dried fruits)

In a small saucepan, mix cream and cornstarch. Heat over medium heat; add lemon juice. Cook and stir until mixture thickens.

Add cheese, one spoonful at a time, stirring until cheese is melted before adding more.

When all cheese has been added, stir in honey.

Transfer fondue to a ceramic or enamel fondue pot, sprinkle with toasted walnuts and keep warm over a fondue burner. Serve immediately with fruit. Makes 6 servings.

LA FONDUE CHEESE FONDUE

This recipe was shared by Robert Chicha, owner of La Fondue Bourguignonne restaurant in Sherman Oaks.

1 1/2 cups dry white wine

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/2 pound OR 2 cups shredded Gruyere cheese (from Switzerland)

1/2 pound OR 2 cups shredded Comte cheese (from Savoy, France)

1/2 pound OR 2 cups shredded Emmental (from Austria)

1 tablespoon cornstarch

3 tablespoons kirsch

Black pepper

Grated nutmeg

Add wine to lemon juice. Heat a few minutes, then gradually add cheeses, stirring constantly, until mixture bubbles.

Mix cornstarch with kirsch until smooth. Stir into cheese mixture and cook, stirring another 3 to 4 minutes.

Add pepper and nutmeg to taste. Transfer to a ceramic fondue pot and keep hot over very low heat.

Dip cubes of day-old French bread, stuffed olives, fresh mushroom quarters, zucchini rounds and cornichons (sour gerkins from France) into cheese fondue.

MICROWAVE CHEESE FONDUE

1 clove garlic, halved

1 cup dry white wine

1 pound combined soft, medium and hard cheeses (Swiss, Jack, sharp OR mild Cheddar), shredded

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

Dash freshly grated nutmeg

Sourdough bread, cut into small chunks

Rub inside of a 2-quart casserole with garlic; add wine. Cook in microwave oven on high power 2 minutes.

Combine cheeses with flour, pepper and nutmeg. Add 1/2 of cheese mixture to wine, stirring until it begins to melt. Cook on medium power 2 minutes, stirring once to prevent a boil over. Add remaining cheese, stir and continue to cook 2 minutes.

Serve fondue immediately, with bread and forks for spearing. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From ``Microwave Magic'' by Thelma Pressman (Barron's).

BEEF FONDUE

1 can (10 1/2 ounces) beef broth

1 1/2 cups white wine

1 onion, thinly sliced

1/2 clove garlic

1 cup coarsely chopped celery and celery tops

3 sprigs parsley

1 whole clove

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon cracked pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground thyme

1/2 teaspoon ground tarragon 

1 1/2 to 2 pounds lean top beef sirloin

Horseradish Sauce

Mustard Mayonnaise

Sweet Sour Sauce

Combine all ingredients except beef and sauces; simmer 5 minutes. Cover and let stand 2 hours. Strain. Heat to boiling in a fondue pot. Keep hot over a fondue burner.

Trim fat from beef and cut into bite-size cubes. Spear beef with fondue forks. Cook in hot broth 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Serve with sauces. Makes 4 servings.

HORSERADISH SAUCE: Combine 1 cup dairy sour cream, 1 teaspoon prepared horseradish, 1 tablespoon chopped chives and 3/4 teaspoon seasoned salt.

MUSTARD MAYONNAISE: Combine 3/4 cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon chopped green onion, 1 teaspoon prepared mustard and 1 drop liquid red pepper seasoning.

SWEET SOUR SAUCE: Combine 1 cup ketchup, 3 tablespoons wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon sugar and dash salt.

GREEK YOGURT AND CUCUMBER SAUCE

Yogurt and cucumbers both have excess liquid that must be drained so the sauce can stay thick without ``weeping.'' Try this sauce with lamb, chicken or swordfish.

2 cups plain low-fat yogurt

1 medium cucumber

Salt

1 green onion, white and green parts, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

1 garlic clove, crushed through a press

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 

Pinch cayenne pepper

Place yogurt in a paper towel-lined sieve set over a large bowl - bottom of bowl should clear bottom of sieve by at least 2 inches. Place a saucer on top of yogurt to weigh down slightly. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour. About 1 cup of whey should drain off. Discard whey. In a medium bowl, place drained yogurt.

Meanwhile, peel cucumber, split lengthwise and scoop out seeds. Coarsely chop cucumber. In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, pulse cucumber 8 to 10 times, until finely chopped but not pureed. Transfer to a medium bowl and toss with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Let stand 1 hour.

Drain into a wire sieve and rinse well under cold running water to remove salt. Drain well. A handful at a time, squeeze cucumber well to remove excess liquid, then stir cucumber into yogurt.

Stir in green onion, dill, garlic, cumin, 1/8 teaspoon salt and cayenne. Cover and refrigerate 1 hour for flavors to blend. Serve slightly chilled. Makes about 1 1/4 cups.

From ``Fondue, Great Food to Dip, Dunk, Savor and Swirl'' by Rick Rodgers (William Morrow and Co.)

SPICY MUSTARD BARBECUE SAUCE

1/4 cup minced onion

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup ketchup

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons anchovy paste

In a 2-cup glass measure, combine onion and olive oil. Microwave on high power 1 to 2 minutes, until softened. Stir in remaining ingredients. Makes 1/2 cup.

From ``Sumptuous Sauces in the Microwave'' by Patricia Tennison (Contemporary Books)

CHOCOLATE FONDUE SUPREME

1 pound bittersweet OR semisweet chocolate

1 cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons rum

1 bunch seedless green grapes

1 pint fresh strawberries

1 can (20 ounces) pineapple chunks, well-drained

2 bananas, sliced and tossed with a little lemon juice

1 apple, thinly sliced and tossed with a little lemon juice

2 oranges, peeled and segmented

8 marshmallows

In a 2-quart glass bowl, combine chocolate and cream. Heat in microwave oven on high power 2 to 2 1/2 minutes or longer, until mixture is smooth and melted when stirred. Heat 1 to 1 1/2 minutes longer or until until warm throughout. Stir in rum. Transfer to a fondue pot and keep warm.

Arrange fruits and marshmallows attractively on a serving platter. To serve, have guests, using fondue forks, dip fruit and marshmallows as desired into warm chocolate. Makes 8 servings, 2 1/2 cups fondue.

NOTE: Other fresh fruits in season cam be used for dipping instead of those mentioned above. Try melon, papaya, tangerines, pears, cherries, peaches, nectarines, etc. Bite-size pieces of angel food cake, pound cake or sponge cake also make good dippers. For a smaller gathering, this recipe can be halved.

From ``365 Great Chocolate Desserts'' by Natalie Haughton (HarperCollins).

PEANUT BUTTER AND MILK CHOCOLATE FONDUE

For kids of all ages, here's a fondue with the all-American flavors of peanuts and milk chocolate.

1 cup whipping cream

6 ounces milk chocolate, finely chopped

1/2 cup chunky peanut butter

Choice of ingredients for dipping: pretzels OR pretzel sticks; brownies, cut into bite-sized pieces; bananas, cut into bite-sized pieces

In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat cream until simmering. Transfer to top part of a double boiler set over simmering heat. Add milk chocolate and let stand until softened, about 1 minute. Whisk until melted. Gradually whisk in peanut butter until fondue is smooth.

Transfer to a ceramic fondue pot or chafing dish and keep warm over a burner. Serve immediately, with dipping ingredients of your choice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From ``Fondue, Great Food to Dip, Dunk, Savor and Swirl'' by Rick Rodgers (William Morrow and Co.)

SWEET AND TART LEMON FONDUE

One of my favorite desserts is lemon tart - tangy lemon curd spread into a sweet pastry shell - and my favorite part of making it is licking the warm curd off the spoon. This fondue allows me to enjoy this sensation by the potful.

1 1/2 cups water

3/4 cup sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

6 tablespoons (1/2 stick plus 2 tablespoons) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into pieces

1/3 cup fresh lemon juice

3 large egg yolks

Peel of 1 lemon

Large, whole strawberries, with stems attached, and shortbread cookies for dipping

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine water and sugar. Sprinkle cornstarch over top and whisk to dissolve. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking often. Remove from heat and whisk in butter, then lemon juice.

In a small bowl, whisk egg yolks. Gradually add about 1/2 cup hot lemon juice mixture to yolks. Stir yolk mixture into saucepan. Stirring constantly, bring to a simmer over medium heat.

Strain into a ceramic fondue pot or chafing dish (straining will remove any stray bits of coagulated egg white). Stir in peel. Serve immediately, with dipping ingredients of your choice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From ``Fondue, Great Food to Dip, Dunk, Savor and Swirl'' by Rick Rodgers (William Morrow and Co.)

CAPTION(S):

7 Photos

PHOTO (1--4--Color) Classic cheese fondue, above; chocolate fondue, far left; and beef, shrimp and chicken fondue with assorted sauces, near left, as served at La Fondue Bourguignonne restaurant in Sherman Oaks. Venture beyond the traditional and try new variations on the theme for parties at home.

(5) For a novel Sunday brunch, serve Apple Cider-Cheddar Fondue with breakfast sausages, waffles, apples or English muffin pieces. Accompany with scrambled eggs and hash browns.

(6) Robert Chicha, owner of La Fondue Bourguignonne in Sherman Oaks, has been serving fondue since 1970.

(7) Dip assorted ravioli into Red Pepper Dill-Swiss Fondue for a '90s rendition of the classic.

John Lazar/Daily News