IT'S THE GREAT PUMPKIN!

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Mention pumpkin, a type of winter squash believed to have originated in Central America, and thoughts invariably turn to Halloween jack-o'- lanterns, pumpkin pie and table decorations.

But those smiling pumpkin faces have a wide array of eating and recipe possibilities contained within. Ever thought of pumpkin stew, pumpkin strata, grilled pumpkin wedges or slices, scalloped potatoes and pumpkin, pumpkin salad, pumpkin ravioli or pasta? You can add chunks to chili, stir puree into tomato-based pasta sauces or layer it in lasagna.

``Pumpkins have a mild flesh that lends itself to both sweet and savory treatments,'' write Georgeanne Brennan and Jennifer Barry in ``Holiday Pumpkins: A Collection of Inspired Recipes, Gifts and Decorations'' (Ten Speed Press; $14.95). It marries well with assorted flavorings, spices and seasonings along with foods like pastas, cheeses, rice, potatoes, meats and much more. Barry's favorite way to eat it is in homemade pumpkin pasta tossed with prosciutto, roasted pecans and baby bok choy.

Although you can use Halloween jack-o'-lanterns (but not carved ones - the flavor and flesh deteriorate once cut) for cooking, there are better options. Look for sugar or sugar pie pumpkins, which have a high flesh- to-seed-cavity ratio and are among the most flavorful cooking pumpkins, advises Barry, adding that they have fine-grained rather than fibrous flesh. They generally range in size from 6 to 8 pounds, notes Tom Tapia, manager, Tapia Brothers Farm, a produce stand and 100-acre farm in Encino (also in the Antelope Valley), but sometimes you'll find them smaller. Barry favors those 7 to 8 inches in diameter and about 2 to 3 pounds each.

White pumpkins (containing orange flesh, like standard pumpkins) are also excellent for cooking, points out Tapia, adding that they're available in sizes weighing from 3 to 25 pounds.

Select firm pumpkins with good golden-orange color, stem attached, thick rind, heavy in relation to size, and free of bruises and soft, spongy spots. The heavier the pumpkins, the denser and more moist the flesh.

For ease in cutting open a pumpkin (which can be difficult with the hard shell) for cooking, Tapia suggests using a pumpkin carving knife.

Uncut pumpkins will keep for months in a cool, dry place, but once cut, they will last only a few days, wrapped in plastic wrap, in the fridge.

When recipes call for precooked pumpkin, bake a pumpkin whole or roast or steam wedges, slices or pieces. Pumpkin is easiest to peel after cooking.

To roast a whole 3- or 4-pound pumpkin so you end up with soft or pureed pumpkin, place on a baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until easily pierced with a knife, about 1 1/2 hours. Adjust time depending on pumpkin size. Cool, halve, scoop out seeds, and mash flesh by hand or in food processor.

Roast larger pumpkins in halves (cut sides down) or wedges (cut sides up), with seeds removed, on a baking sheet at 350 degrees 40 to 60 minutes (halves) or 15 to 20 minutes (wedges), covered with foil the first 10 minutes. Cool, discard skin, and mash or use cutup pieces or wedges in recipes.

To steam wedges, slices and cubes, place in a steamer or vegetable basket over boiling water in a large pot and steam 15 minutes, then cool and peel.

Barry prefers roasting to steaming, as it brings out a richer flavor.

If a recipe calls for raw chunks, wedges or slices, be sure to peel the pumpkin first and discard seeds and fibers.

Figure that a 3-pound pumpkin will yield about 1 1/2 pounds peeled flesh or two cups puree.

If you don't have the time or inclination to cook fresh pumpkin, rely on convenient canned puree. Of course it doesn't have the flexibility (or flavor) of fresh wedges, slices, chunks and the like, but it is suitable for many creations calling for puree and you'll end up with excellent results.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

BAKED PUMPKINS STUFFED WITH SAUSAGE AND SAGE

6 mini pumpkins, each 2 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter

12 ounces bulk pork sausage

1 egg

1 cup coarse Italian-style, seasoned bread crumbs, homemade OR store-bought

1 tablespoon minced fresh sage

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salt to taste

With a sharp knife, slice off upper 1/4 of pumpkins and set tops aside. Scoop out seeds and, if necessary, enough flesh to leave a shell about 1/2-inch thick.

In a medium bowl, combine sausage, egg, bread crumbs, sage, parsley, pepper and salt; mix well. Fill each pumpkin with some of stuffing, mounding it 1/2 inch above rim. Place pumpkins on a baking sheet with tops alongside, stem up.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 35 to 45 minutes, until filling is firm and has begun to pull away just slightly from sides and pumpkin shells are easily pierced with a knife. Replace tops and serve hot. Makes 6 servings as a first course or side dish.

From ``Holiday Pumpkins,'' by Georgeanne Brennan and Jennifer Barry.

HONEY-GRILLED PUMPKIN SLICES

1 (2-pound) unpeeled cooking pumpkin, seeded and cut into 1-inch-wide slices

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Pomegranate seeds for garnish

Light a fire in a charcoal or wood grill or preheat a gas grill. Steam pumpkin slices in a steaming or vegetable basket over boiling water until tender when pierced with a knife, about 15 minutes. Dip pumpkin slices in melted butter and place on a baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Blend honey and mustard together into a paste.

Grill pumpkin slices over medium-hot fire or heat, 2 to 3 minutes on one side. Turn and baste with honey and mustard mixture. Grill 2 or 3 minutes more, then turn and baste again. Cook until lightly golden on bottom, 1 or 2 minutes. Turn and grill on second side until lightly golden as well, 1 or 2 minutes. Serve hot, sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. Use as a side dish to accompany roasted or grilled meats - especially good with pork or game or as part of a mixed vegetable grill. Makes about 15 slices; 6 servings as a side dish.

From ``Holiday Pumpkins,'' by Georgeanne Brennan and Jennifer Barry.

SCALLOPED PUMPKIN AND POTATOES

1/2 small cooking pumpkin, seeded, cut into wedges and steamed (over boiling water 15 minutes)

1 clove garlic, crushed

4 tablespoons butter, cut into bits

1 1/2 pounds boiling potatoes, such as red OR white rose OR Yukon gold, peeled and cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices, 5 to 6 cups

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup (4 ounces) grated OR shredded Swiss cheese

1 cup milk, boiling

Peel steamed wedges of pumpkin and cut them crosswise into 1/8-inch- thick slices; you should have 2 cups. Reserve any extra pumpkin for another use.

Rub inside of a shallow baking dish with garlic, then liberally butter dish. Arrange 1/2 of potato slices in bottom of dish, add 1/2 of sliced pumpkin, then top with 1/2 of salt, pepper, cheese and butter. Repeat layering a second time. Pour in boiling milk.

Bake in preheated 425-degree oven 40 to 45 minutes, until potato and pumpkin are thoroughly tender and top is browned. Serve with roasted turkey or a standing rib roast. Makes 6 side dish servings.

From ``Holiday Pumpkins,'' by Georgeanne Brennan and Jennifer Barry.

NUTTY PUMPKIN WAFFLES

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch 

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 large eggs, separated

1 3/4 cups milk

1/2 cup canned 100 percent pure pumpkin

2 tablespoons butter OR margarine, melted

3/4 cup chopped nuts

Pumpkin Maple Sauce

In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, cornstarch, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, ginger and nutmeg. In a medium bowl, combine egg yolks, milk and pumpkin; mix well. Add to flour mixture. Stir in butter. In a small mixer bowl with an electric mixer, beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Gently fold into pumpkin mixture.

Preheat waffle iron according to manufacturer's directions. Depending on size of waffle iron, pour 1/2 cup to 1 1/2 cups batter onto hot iron. Generously sprinkle with nuts. Bake 4 to 5 minutes or until steaming stops. Repeat with remaining batter and nuts. Serve with Pumpkin Maple Sauce. Makes 6 to 8 waffles.

PUMPKIN MAPLE SAUCE: In a small saucepan, heat 1 1/4 cups canned pumpkin, 1 cup maple syrup and 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon until warm.

SANTA FE APPLE PUMPKIN SOUP

1 (11.5-ounce) can apple nectar

1 (14.5-ounce) can chicken broth

1 cup heavy whipping cream 

1 (15-ounce) can 100 percent pure pumpkin

1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cumin 

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander 

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

In a medium saucepan, combine nectar, broth and cream. Bring to a boil; add pumpkin, brown sugar, cumin, chili powder, coriander and nutmeg. Reduce heat to low; cook 10 to 15 minutes or until slightly thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with cheese. Makes 4 servings.

SOUR CREAM PUMPKIN BUNDT CAKE

STREUSEL:

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice 

2 teaspoons butter OR margarine

CAKE:

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons baking soda 

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup (2 sticks) butter OR margarine, softened

4 large eggs

1 cup canned 100 percent pure pumpkin

1 cup sour cream

2 teaspoons vanilla

Glaze

Grease and flour a 12-cup Bundt pan. For Streusel, in a small bowl, combine brown sugar, cinnamon and allspice. Cut in butter with a pastry blender or two knives until mixture is crumbly. Set aside.

For Cake, in a medium bowl, combine flour, cinnamon, baking soda and salt. In a large mixer bowl, beat granulated sugar and butter until light and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add pumpkin, sour cream and vanilla; mix well. Gradually beat in flour mixture.

Spoon 1/2 of cake batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle Streusel over batter, not allowing Streusel to touch sides of pan. Top with remaining batter. Makes sure batter layer touches edges of pan.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 55 to 60 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in cake comes out clean. Cool 30 minutes in pan on wire rack. Invert onto wire rack to cool completely. Drizzle with Glaze. Makes 1 cake, 16 servings.

GLAZE: In a small bowl, combine 1 1/2 cups sifted powdered sugar and 2 to 3 tablespoons orange juice or milk; stir until smooth.

ROASTING SEEDS

To roast pumpkin seeds (which are rich in vitamin E, iron, magnesium and zinc), remove from the pumpkin and rinse well in a colander, removing any strings and pulp. Blot dry. Place in a bowl and add a few drops of olive oil. Spread out on a baking sheet and sprinkle with spices of your choice and a little salt. Roast at 375 degrees about 45 minutes or until golden. Cool and store in an airtight container. Eat as snacks or toss into salads or soups.

- N.H.

CAPTION(S):

5 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Cook that PUMPKIN

Don't miss the taste of season's top squash

The New York Times

(2 -- color) NUTTY PUMPKIN WAFFLES

(3 -- color) BAKED PUMPKINS STUFFED WITH SAUSAGE AND SAGE

(4 -- color) SCALLOPED PUMPKIN AND POTATOES

From ``Holiday Pumpkins: A Collection of Inspired Recipes, Gifts and Decorations,'' Ten Speed Press

(5) SOUR CREAM PUMPKIN BUNDT CAKE

Box:

ROASTING SEEDS (see text)