IT'S PICNIC SEASON; PLAN AHEAD FOR A FUN, FESTIVE OUTDOOR MEAL.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Picnics - designed for enjoying a beautiful day or evening outdoors - are all a matter of style. They can range from humble spur-of-the-moment outings to more elegant affairs geared to enjoy an evening at a concert under the stars.

``One of the virtues of a picnic is its flexibility,'' writes Barbara Scott-Goodman in her new book, ``Picnics'' (Chronicle Books; $12.95). ``A picnic can be held almost anywhere: at the beach in the late afternoon, in the woods during a hike, on a boat at the lake, on the roadside while traveling with the family, in the park before a concert. Closer to home, a picnic can be casual, under a tree in the back yard, or on the deck or patio, or it can be formal, such as an alfresco dinner on the terrace with candlelight.''

Planning an impromptu picnic can take a few quick minutes to hastily grab a blanket or towel, load the cooler with a few sandwiches prepared from on-hand pantry or refrigerator ingredients, potato chips, paper plates and cans of your favorite beverages and head for the park or beach. Or when there's more time, organizers can plan in advance and coordinate the seasonal offerings.

Composing a picnic involves creating a harmonious mixture of foods with complementary flavors and textures. Numerous configurations are feasible, depending on your schedule and the preparation time available to coordinate your efforts. Peruse the recipes that follow - and mix and match to personalize your picnic menu.

Remember to suit food selections to the venue and the people who will be going on the picnic. Children find the simplest foods appealing - and you don't have to impress them. Peanut butter and jelly sandwiches will do.

When you're looking for something quick, consider filling a baguette with slices of brie or buffalo mozzarella cheese, fresh basil and garden-fresh tomato slices. Top with a drizzle of pesto-flavored olive oil, wrap in foil and tote with a sharp knife.

Leftover chicken can be turned into a wonderful chicken salad or just layered in pita bread with roasted red peppers, basil, cheese slices and olive tapenade (either prepared or homemade). You can also roll up thinly sliced roast beef or cooked turkey with a sour cream and horseradish mixture, chopped green onions and tomatoes in sheets of lavosh (available in the bread section of supermarkets) for a fast portable feast.

An antipasto platter is another fast idea that you can rustle up in a jiffy with jars of olives, roasted red peppers, marinated artichoke hearts and mushrooms, slices of buffalo or other mozzarella cheese or provolone, salami and mortadella slices along with fresh basil and a drizzle of olive oil and vinegar, if desired. Accompany with slices of rustic Italian or olive bread - and the feast is on.

Some tips for picnickers:

Plan ahead and make a list to avoid forgetting anything crucial like plates, utensils, napkins, can opener, etc. Check off the list before departing.

While beautiful picnic baskets are nice, they're not mandatory. Coolers, and canvas and straw bags of all sizes work well, too. Check out the colorful and sturdy acrylic and plastic plates and utensils - from places like Target, Kmart, Bloomingdale's and Crate & Barrel - which can jazz up the festivities.

Select food items that travel well. Avoid saucy or drippy items or desserts like custards or creme brulees. Instead opt for cookies or a pan-baked cake. Assorted individual fresh fruits - be sure they are rinsed in advance - are good choices.

To keep the picnic interesting and fun, opt for a couple of creative or novel dishes - or classic favorites with new twists.

Don't feel obligated to spend hours in the kitchen preparing a feast. Supermarket delis and neighborhood takeout places with a variety of ethnic choices are happy to supply you with innovative and tasty fare. See the accompanying list for some possibilities.

Or when the picnic mood strikes and there's no time to cook, you can create a spur-of-the-moment feast by picking up a selection of cheese wedges, pates, cooked meats, bread, fruit, wine, even a bar of chocolate and cookies to pack in your basket.

For ease and convenience and to avoid a messy hassle at the site, do as much in advance as possible before toting the food. For instance, butter bread and rolls before leaving home. If possible, toss vegetable salads with dressing just before before heading out the door. If planning to serve items like chicken or other salads on greens, take advantage of the many cleaned bagged salad mixes on the market and open them just before serving on location.

Select the picnic site before leaving home to save time and assist in planning. If you're going to the beach, towels, folding chairs, toys for playing in the sand, etc. make sense. The park may dictate blankets, folding chairs (unless picnic tables and chairs are available there), a plastic table cloth, balls, Frisbees, etc.

Once you arrive at the site, survey the area and look for a level spot free of tree roots or holes to lay out your blanket and picnic. Consider locating near trees so you'll have some shade. Pick a spot where you can view a large area, particularly if you are taking the children.

To prevent moisture from seeping through your blanket on the ground, bring a large piece of plastic or a tarp to put underneath.

Pack cold foods with other cold foods to keep them cool en route to the picnic. The same goes for hot foods - do not pack cold and hot foods in the same cooler or picnic basket.

``You can't be too careful when handling and packing food for cooking and eating outdoors,'' notes Scott-Goodman. Summer heat increases the chance of bacterial growth in foods, especially those that are high in protein and moisture - including meats, poultry, seafood, dairy products and eggs - she points out.

So heed food-safety basics, including washing your hands before and after food handling and cleaning cutting surfaces and utensils with hot soapy water after each use.

Keep all foods prepared ahead of time refrigerated. Just before leaving for your picnic destination, pack cold foods in a cooler surrounded by ice or frozen gel packs. Transport them to the picnic site in the air-conditioned passenger compartment of the car, rather than in the hot trunk, if at all possible.

Wrap any hot foods in heavy-duty foil or several thicknesses of newspapers, then in towels before packing snugly in a basket or heat-reflective carrier to keep warm.

Rely on thermoses - available in various sizes from pints to gallons - to retain the temperature of hot or cold drinks or soup.

Once at the picnic site, store your basket or cooler(s) in a shady place, not in the sun.

Unwrap and put foods out just prior to serving. Also be sure to promptly store any leftovers.

If friends volunteer to bring something to the picnic, by all means encourage them. Just coordinate their efforts so you don't end up with three potato salads - and no coleslaw or macaroni salad - or two chocolate cakes.

Don't forget to take clean-up items like garbage bags, paper towels, wet wipes and food storage bags.

For fun, explore the glory of a summer breakfast picnic. Gather everything the night before, or get up early and stop on your way to the site for the fixings - fresh fruit, orange juice, coffeecake, bagels, cream cheese, lox and even coffee. There's something magical about dining in the fresh air and celebrating life - and there's no better way to start the day!

Remember when it comes to picnics, ingenuity is the key. Make the fare as simple or elaborate as your schedule permits - and then enjoy dining alfresco.

SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN 

1 chicken (3 pounds), cut into 8 to 10 portions, OR 12 chicken drumsticks

Salt and freshly ground black pepper 

2 tablespoons paprika 

2 tablespoons celery salt 

2 tablespoons onion powder 

1 tablespoon dry mustard 

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

3 large eggs

2 cups all-purpose flour

Vegetable oil for frying

Rinse chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Place in a large bowl.

Mix salt and black pepper to taste, paprika, celery salt, onion powder, dry mustard and cayenne. Divide into 3 equal portions and sprinkle one portion over chicken pieces. Toss pieces together so that each piece gets coated with some os seasonings.

Combine seasonings and chicken in a plastic food bag and shake, if desired. Cover and let stand 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Beat eggs in a bowl until light and fluffy. Add 1/3 of seasonings and beat to combine. Mix remaining 1/3 with flour.

Heat oil in a large, deep, heavy-bottomed skillet or frying pan. Dip each piece of chicken into egg, then dredge in seasoned flour. Fry chicken in batches in hot oil about 12 to 14 minutes, or until each piece is well cooked and golden.

To see if chicken is properly cooked, prick pieces with a skewer. If clear liquid comes out, this is a sign it is cooked on inside. Cook remaining chicken. Drain chicken on paper towels.

Serve chicken immediately. Or cool all chicken pieces, and then refrigerate until cold before packing for a picnic. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Adapted from ``United Tastes of America'' by Dorinda Hafner, Ballantine Books.

RED PEPPER SPREAD

1 package (8 ounces) cream cheese, softened

1 cup roasted red bell peppers, rinsed and drained (1/2 of a 15-ounce jar)

3/4 teaspoon garlic pepper

2 teaspoons dried basil

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon whipping cream

In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, process all ingredients until almost smooth. Keep refrigerated until serving time. Serve with crackers, fresh vegetable dippers, Italian or French bread slices, toasted, if desired. Makes about 1 3/4 cups spread or dip.

ANTIPASTO SALAD

1/2 cup bottled Italian salad dressing

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

3/4 pound sliced Genoa OR other hard salami, cut into thin strips

1/2 pound provolone cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 can (15 1/2 ounces) garbanzo beans (chick-peas), drained

3 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped

4 to 6 sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, cut up

1 medium green bell pepper, cut into thin strips

1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced

1/2 cup ripe olive pieces

8 to 10 cups shredded fresh spinach

In a large bowl, mix together Italian dressing, mustard and basil. Add salami, cheese, beans, fresh and sun-dried tomatoes, green bell pepper, green onions and olives. Toss to mix well. Refrigerate several hours for flavors to blend. Toss again before serving. Serve on a bed of spinach or lettuce. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From ``365 Easy One Dish Meals'' by Natalie Haughton, Harper & Row.

LEMON CAKE

1 package (18.2 ounces) pudding included lemon cake mix

1 package (3 ounces) lemon-flavored gelatin 

3 eggs

3/4 cup vegetable oil

3/4 cup water

Lemon Glaze

In a bowl of an electric mixer, combine cake mix and gelatin. Add eggs, oil and water. Beat at low speed to combine ingredients, then increase speed to medium and continue beating another 2 minutes. Turn into a 12-cup greased Bundt pan. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 45 to 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in cake comes out clean. Cool cake in pan 10 minutes; then invert cake onto a serving plate. While cake is still warm, use a thin skewer to poke holes over surface of cake. Spoon warm Lemon Glaze over cake until it is all absorbed. Cool cake. Makes 1 cake.

LEMON GLAZE: Combine 2 tablespoons melted butter with 1 1/2 cups sifted powdered sugar and 3 to 4 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, mixing until smooth.

CALICO SALAD

2 cups fresh raw corn kernels

1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded and sliced

1 cup thinly sliced celery

1 cup diced tomatoes

1 teaspoon dried marjoram, crumbled

1/2 cup Cucumber Salad Dressing

Romaine lettuce

1/2 red onion, sliced into very thin rings

In a salad bowl, combine corn, bell pepper, celery, tomatoes and marjoram. Toss with Cucumber Salad Dressing and refrigerate until chilled.

To serve, line 6 plates with romaine lettuce leaves, divide salad among them and top with onion rings. Makes 6 servings.

CUCUMBER SALAD DRESSING: Place 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon grapefruit juice, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 teaspoon freshly minced ginger, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 large peeled and quartered cucumber in a food processor or blender and process until cucumber is in small pieces.

From ``Corn'' by Patricia Mack, Record Books.

CREAMY CURRY SLAW

DRESSING:

1 clove garlic, minced

1 cup plain yogurt

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon fresh lime OR lemon juice

1 teaspoon curry powder OR to taste

SALAD:

1 large (about 2 1/2 pounds) cabbage, cored and shredded

4 carrots, peeled and grated

2 cups golden raisins

1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced

1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

For Dressing, in a small bowl, whisk all dressing ingredients together.

For Salad, in a large bowl, combine cabbage, carrots, raisins, green onions, 1/2 of cilantro and 1/2 of parsley. Toss with dressing. Taste and adjust seasonings. Sprinkle with remaining cilantro and parsley. Makes 8 servings.

From ``A Good Day For Salad'' by Louise Fiszer and Jeannette Ferrary, Chronicle Books.

PENNE SALAD PROVENCAL

SALAD:

1 pound penne pasta

Water

8 ounces green beans, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 small red onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 small zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 large ripe tomato, seeded and diced

1 cup Nicoise olives, pitted and halved

1/4 cup capers, drained and rinsed

BASIL VINAIGRETTE:

1 cup fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup olive oil

1/4 cup white wine vinegar

2 cloves garlic, minced

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For Salad, cook penne in boiling water, according to package directions. Drain and cool.

Cook green beans in salted, boiling water until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Drain under cold water and let cool.

In a large bowl, combine penne, green beans, red onion, zucchini, red pepper, tomato, olives and capers.

For Basil Vinaigrette, in a food processor or blender, process all vinaigrette ingredients until smooth. Pour over pasta and toss well. Taste for salt and pepper. Let salad stand about 2 hours at room temperature before serving. Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary. Makes 6 servings.

From ``A Good Day For Salad'' by Louise Fiszer and Jeannette Ferrary, Chronicle Books.

DESSERT DIP

2 cups dairy sour cream

2 teaspoons vanilla

3/4 cup apricot OR peach preserves

Sugar to taste

Combine first 3 ingredients in a medium bowl and blend. Sweeten with sugar and stir to combine.

Chill. Serve with fresh fruit pieces for dipping. Makes about 3 cups.

From ``Chips, Dips and Salsas'' by Judy Walker and Kim MacEachern, Northland Publishing.

CHICKEN APRICOT WITH DIJON ROSEMARY DRESSING

4 medium boneless chicken breast halves, seasoned and grilled, then skinned and cut into bite-size pieces

1 cup dried apricot halves

1 cup diced celery

2 to 3 green onions, minced

1/2 cup sliced almonds

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon sugar

Salt and white pepper to taste

1/4 cup half-and-half OR whipping cream

1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

In a large bowl, combine chicken, apricots, celery, green onions and almonds.

In a small bowl, mix together mayonnaise, mustard, sugar, salt, pepper, half-and-half and rosemary.

Pour over chicken mixture and toss until well blended. Refrigerate until serving time. Makes 4 servings.

GREEK SALAD SANDWICH WITH OREGANO VINAIGRETTE

1 (10-inch) round bread loaf

1/2 cup Oregano Vinaigrette

2 cups mixed salad greens

1 cup (5 ounces) crumbled feta cheese

1 English (hothouse) cucumber, thinly sliced

2 large tomatoes, thinly sliced

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

1 small yellow bell pepper, seeded, deveined and thinly sliced (optional)

1/4 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

1/4 cup fresh oregano

Cut bread in half and scoop out some of soft center. Brush each half generously with Oregano Vinaigrette.

In bottom half of bread, arrange greens, cheese, cucumber, tomatoes, onion, bell pepper, olives and oregano. Place remaining bread half on top, wrap in plastic wrap and place on a baking sheet. Set a plate on top of loaf and top with some canned food or another weight to compress loaf. Refrigerate 1 hour.

Wrap and take to a picnic. Cut into 6 wedges to serve. Makes 6 servings.

OREGANO VINAIGRETTE: In a blender or food processor, combine 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano; 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice; 1/4 cup lemon-infused olive oil OR extra virgin olive oil; 2 garlic cloves, chopped; 1 tablespoon drained capers; 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon ground pepper. Process until smooth. Store in an airtight food container in refrigerator up to 1 week. Makes 1 cup.

From ``San Francisco Flavors,'' favorite recipes from The Junior League of San Francisco, Chronicle Books

SANGRIA 

4 cups orange juice

3 bottles dry red wine, preferably an inexpensive fruity Merlot

4 oranges, thinly sliced

6 lemons, thinly sliced

8 limes, thinly sliced

3/4 cup sugar OR more to taste

Ice cubes

In a large bowl, combine all ingredients except ice cubes. Refrigerate 4 to 6 hours. Taste for sweetness, then add ice. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

From ``San Francisco Flavors,'' favorite recipes from The Junior League of San Francisco, Chronicle Books

CINNAMON-PEACH CAKE

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 1/2 cups ripe peaches (about 3 peaches), peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Lightly butter and flour an 8-inch square baking pan.

In a medium bowl, whisk together flour and baking powder.

In a large bowl, using an electric mixer on high speed, cream butter, brown sugar and 1/2 cup granulated sugar about 3 minutes until light and fluffy.

With mixer running on medium speed, add flour mixture to batter, a little a a time; do not overmix. Beat in eggs.

Scrape batter into prepared pan. Smooth surface and then arrange sliced peaches on top of batter.

In a small bowl, combine remaining 3 tablespoons sugar with cinnamon and sprinkle mixture over peaches.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven about 1 hour or until cake begins to pull away from sides of pan and turns golden brown.

Remove cake from oven and cool in pan on a wire rack.

When completely cool, serve cake directly from pan. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From ``Picnics'' by Barbara Scott-Goodman, Chronicle Books.

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos

PHOTO (1--Color) no caption (Picnic basket filled with assorted items)

(2--Color) Picnics can be flexible with a variety of foods - from humble to elegant to spur-of-the-moment.

John McCoy/Staff Photographer