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IT'S ALL IN THE NAMES AT RIBS USA.


Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Just about every dish has a humorous or personalized name at Ribs USA, Burbank's established barbecue mecca.

Would you eat a dish called ``Glad It's Night and the Tips, or Riblets''?. I didn't.

But I love the Wild Spears spicy fries ($3.45), a heap of french fries soaked in a sweet and spicy hot barbecue sauce, served with a side of creamy ranch dressing for cool-off dipping.

And I couldn't resist ordering Larry's links ($5.95) one day. This materializes as a slew of cutup cut·up  
n. Informal
A mischievous person; a prankster.
 link sausages drenched in Adj. 1. drenched in - abundantly covered or supplied with; often used in combination; "drenched in moonlight"; "moon-drenched meadows"
drenched

covered - overlaid or spread or topped with or enclosed within something; sometimes used as a combining form;
 the same spicy barbecue sauce.

And I have to say thanks to a dude named Brian. It was his namesake Big Brian's combo ($21.95) that provided a half slab of meaty babybacks and half a slab of large, juicy, satisfying beef back ribs one night.

Of course with an order like this you get the good house freshly baked corn-bread muffins and a choice of two generous side dishes.

On this particular occasion, a respectable salad and some mushy mush·y  
adj. mush·i·er, mush·i·est
1. Resembling mush in consistency; soft.

2. Informal
a. Excessively sentimental. See Synonyms at sentimental.

b.
 macaroni macaroni: see pasta.  and cheese were picked.

Other optional side dishes tried have been the house baked beans baked beans
Noun, pl

haricot beans, baked and tinned in tomato sauce

baked beans npljudías fpl en salsa de tomate

baked beans bake npl
, cole slaw slaw  
n. Chiefly Southern U.S.
Coleslaw.

Noun 1. slaw - basically shredded cabbage
coleslaw

salad - food mixtures either arranged on a plate or tossed and served with a moist dressing; usually consisting of
, potato salad, corn on the cob and a foil-wrapped baked potato, all chosen at ensuing visits.

The baked potato was small but passable pass·a·ble  
adj.
1. That can be passed, traversed, or crossed; navigable: a passable road.

2. Acceptable for general circulation: passable currency.

3.
. The potato salad, on the other hand, was more than enough in size and certainly made well.

The baked beans tasted better than expected, and both the cole slaw and the cob of corn met expectations.

Brit-town ($18.45) is the name for a fulfilling combo platter of a quarter barbecued chicken and half a slab of babyback ribs with a couple of side dishes.

This can be an introduction to a pretty good effort at cooking chicken. The Ribs USA kitchen correctly crisps the skin and brings the flesh to just the right point of tenderness and moistness.

Another way to enjoy the same is via one of the house chicken entrees. Chosen one time was Momma Syl's ($9.95), an expanded version (from quarter to half) of exactly the same barbecued chicken as that served on the Brit-town platter.

Keeping up with just about every American restaurant these days, Ribs USA makes a bountiful Chinese chicken salad Chinese chicken salad, as its name suggests, is a salad with chicken, popular in the United States. The Asian influence comes from common Asian-themed ingredients. Though many variations exist, common features of most salads described as "Chinese chicken" contain lettuce, chicken,  ($7.95) dubbed Woo's salad.

Rob Boldt's backyard bacon burger ($8.45) is a full half-pounder done as rare as you want, with grilled onions, cheese, bacon of course, and barbecue sauce, plus one side and a soda. You'll find a good, thick, juicy patty with enough accompaniments to provide a hearty meal-size burger for an adult.

As for a steak here, the ribeye (called Ruta's ribeye, $14.95) comes forth rather thin and with several chewy chew·y  
adj. chew·i·er, chew·i·est
Needing much chewing: chewy candy.



chewi·ness n.
 parts. I think the ribs and chicken are probably better choices, though the untried porterhouse ($18.95) could be the preferred steak pick.

The kitchen caters to the television sport-watching set with stuffed potato skins Potato skins are a snack food or appetizer. They are made of small, flat circular or oval pieces of potatoes with skin on one side and a quarter-inch or so of fleshy potato on the other. , onion rings and the like. There are hearty sandwiches including a tri-tip offering called the Moocher mooch   Slang
v. mooched, mooch·ing, mooch·es

v.tr.
1. To obtain or try to obtain by begging; cadge. See Synonyms at cadge.

2. To steal; filch.

v.intr.
1.
 ($8.45) as well as a hot dog and cheese sandwich for kids (with one side and soda, $4.35).

You eat the good barbecued food here in a no-frills dining room. You might find the mug of chilled amber bock Noun 1. bock - a very strong lager traditionally brewed in the fall and aged through the winter for consumption in the spring
bock beer

lager beer, lager - a general term for beer made with bottom fermenting yeast (usually by decoction mashing); originally
 ($4.50) the best beverage

accompaniment.

But if you eat here too often, you might find a dish with your name on it.

That's one thing I don't have to worry about. Remember, there's already Larry's links.

RIBS USA

Food: Three stars. Service: Three stars.

Where: 2711 W. Olive Ave., Burbank.

Hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. daily; to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, to 9 p.m. Sunday.

Recommended items:Spicy fries, spicy links, babyback pork ribs, beef back ribs, barbecued chicken, backyard bacon burger, baked beans, potato salad.

How much: Starters from $2.75 to $7.45, burgers and sandwiches from $6.95 to $8.45, entrees from $9.95 to $27.95, desserts $3.95 each. Beer and wine. AE, MC, DC, V, Discover.

Wine list: More beers than wines. Six taps and eight bottles of brew to choose from. Wine limited to four varietals (merlot, cabernet, chardonnay, white zinfandel) by Stone Creek at $3.95 per glass, $14 per bottle.

Reservations: Taken for parties of six or more. Call (818) 841-8872.

CAPTION(S):

photo

Photo:

Beef ribs and chicken are among the barbecue choices that can be combined at Ribs USA in Burbank.

John McCoy/Staff Photographer
COPYRIGHT 2002 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 2002, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Title Annotation:Review; U
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Sep 13, 2002
Words:758
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