IT'S A GRILL ... IT'S A PAN ... IT'S SUPER WOK FASTER THAN A SPEEDING PULLET, TARZANA EATERY SAVES DINERS FROM EXPENSE.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

NOT EVERYONE EATS a sandwich for lunch.

You can tell that's a fact by viewing the milling crowds at lunchtime at Super Wok in Tarzana, a double storefront Chinese cafe that emphasizes low-fat, no-MSG, healthy-style food that is spewed out of a busy kitchen in big portions at very reasonable rates.

But though purists will point north on Reseda Boulevard to the several Chinese restaurants that have tanks carrying live fish and shellfish and serve such items as jellyfish and sea cucumber, Super Wok carries mainstream favorites, cooks them quickly, uses fresh oil where necessary, and ends up serving good-tasting, hot, nongreasy, appealing Chinese fare.

And this restaurant's lunch specials are truly amazing bargains.

One of the best items of the 49 of these specials offered is described on the menu as ``crispy fried squid with spicy salt'' and priced at $4.95.

Now if you can picture calamari fritti (everybody's favorite Italian appetizer) on steroids, you have the correct notion of what these big, fluffy, batter-coated squids look and taste like.

Yes indeed, they're oh-so-tender and delicious.

When ordered as a main course luncheon, they're served, as are all the lunch specials, with a bowl of steamed white rice, and preceded by a soup, usually a very good hot and sour with chicken, or a small green salad.

Incidentally, the squid dish is available in a larger size as an a la carte entree, for lunch or dinner for $7.95.

Or you might want to try a pretty good version of crispy shredded pork with a pile of just-as-crispy string beans, also $4.95 for lunch or $8.95 as an evening entree specialty.

The steamed dumplings here are huge. Six of them stuffed with a chicken mixture ($4.95) arrive in a basket, and though more ponderous and doughy than the way I prefer them, certainly take care of immediate hunger needs.

For those who can't make up their minds on a starter, there's an assorted appetizer platter ($5.95) that contains a pretty good egg roll and samples of fried wonton, moist foil-wrapped chicken, chewy barbecued rib and fried shrimp.

But for my money, a smart appetizer choice here is Super Wok's rendition of minced chicken in lettuce cups ($5.95), with the crunchy refreshing lettuce leaves heaped with a joining of chopped chicken breast, mushrooms and water chestnuts. If you like to spice things up a bit, ask for some Szechwan chile oil and daub on a little to achieve a touch of fieriness.

As for entree chicken possibilities, the best main-course chicken dish here may well be the house jade chicken ($8.95) of very tender white meat slices in a white chicken broth sauce paired with spinach and showing an occasional little slice of red chile.

However, the best beef dish is probably the house special beef steak plate ($9.95) of crisped slices of filet mignon glazed with a sweetish black pepper and citrus sauce, perched on shredded napa cabbage and garnished with orange slices.

A similar recipe using 10 ounces of lobster meat per order is also available for $15.95.

Scallops with a thickened black bean sauce ($10.95) provide a good-tasting seafood alternative, although the mushrooms, bell peppers and onions in the mix seem overabundant compared to the slices of scallop.

But Super Wok doesn't offer filet mignon, scallops or lobster as lunch specials, maybe because they're just too expensive.

Yet they can be ordered any time during the day at their listed menu prices.

And will undoubtedly result in stomach satisfaction.

As long as you're not in a sandwich mood, that is.

SUPER WOK

Food: Three stars. Service: Three stars. Value: Three and one half stars.

Where: 5418 Reseda Blvd., Tarzana.

Hours: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily and for dinner from 4 to 10 p.m. nightly.

Recommended items: Hot and sour soup, minced chicken in lettuce cups, squid with spicy salt, jade chicken, Super Wok special beef steak, shredded pork with string beans.

How much: Starters from $4 to $6, entrees from $7 to $16, ice cream dessert $2. Beer and wine. AE, MC, V, ATM.

Wine list: Limited bottlings. Also beers.

Reservations: Taken for parties of four or more. Call [phone].

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Photo:

Super Wok in Tarzana serves tasty, nongreasy dishes such as Sweet and Pungent Shrimp.

David Sprague/Staff Photographer