IS IT SOUP YET? MAKE IT DELICIOUS...AND MAKE IT IN MINUTES.

Byline: Natalie Haughton

Food Editor

Mom used to spend all day in the kitchen laboring over homemade soup. Between the boiling, deboning and cooling process to make the stock, and then finally cooking the concoction, it was a time-consuming and labor-intensive meal.

But it doesn't have to be that way.

"I make fast soups all the time and think you can get maximum flavor in 20 to 30 minutes," says Robin Miller, author of "Quick Fix Meals" (The Taunton Press; $18.95), her just-released seventh cookbook.

"You can make a fabulous soup with five or six good ingredients. You don't need a lot of ingredients when one or two are really strong.

"Soup is no different than any other meal in terms of time investment, and you get a tremendous payoff," says Miller, host of the Food Network's "Quick Fix Meals With Robin Miller."You can do your own prep in advance or get some help from the grocery store with pre-chopped items from the salad bar or produce aisle (such as chopped onions, broccoli or cauliflowerettes; baby carrots; cut-up squash pieces and sliced mushrooms).

"If you start with chopped ingredients, you cut out 15 minutes of prep time," Miller adds.

"I sear meat, chicken, turkey or chiles for a golden-brown exterior, and that caramelization lends flavor to the soup."

She also browns onions and leeks until golden (about five minutes) for caramelized flavor. "Then I add the vegetables and herbs and cook a minute until they smell fragrant."

Broth is then added (she favors low-sodium chicken or beef broths available in aseptic packaging). She avoids vegetable broths because most are flavorless (there are a few exceptions).

In fish chowders, she uses a combination of bottled clam juice or liquid from the can of fish along with some chicken broth to add more depth of flavor and reduce the salt.

A flavorful broth is key for soups that are both quick to prepare and satisfying, says Christopher Kimball, founder and editor of Cook's Illustrated and Cook's Country and "The Best 30-Minute Recipe" (America's Test Kitchen; $35). Doctoring up store-bought broth by simmering and infusing it with ingredients such as herbs, garlic and aromatic spices is a perfectly acceptable shortcut. "This step imparts a long-cooked flavor in a matter of minutes."

Also, by adding stronger-flavored ingredients -- such as bacon, cilantro, chipotle chiles, lime juice, sherry, curry paste, spice mixes and the like -- you can boost flavor, making quick soups that taste like they've been simmering all day.

"Bacon is the first step in a lot of our recipes as it's a good way to get lots of flavor," Kimball says.

After cooking, pour off some of the fat, add onions and saute along with meat or poultry over high heat; then deglaze the pan.

To speed up the cooking time, bring the soup quickly to a boil over high heat. Add fresh herbs and spices near the end of the cooking time. If using dried herbs, be sure they are no more than six months old.

While Miller is into nutrition, she notes that her quick-cooking repertoire relies on many shortcuts -- and she makes no apologies. She uses canned, jarred and frozen foods -- such as broths, diced tomatoes and tomato sauce; frozen green beans, corn, peas and mixed vegetables; jarred red peppers and olives; bottled sauces such as black bean, hoisin, ponzu, chili paste with garlic, and red and green curry pastes -- along with fresh items. "I'm all for getting help, provided the quality of the product is good."

When making soup, double or triple recipes and bank a batch in the freezer in individual-serving-size portions so you can pull them out when needed.

There are no hard-and-fast rules for quick soups. If you're following a recipe and are missing an ingredient, substitute something else -- like one kind of protein (meat, poultry, fish) or bean for another.

For any soup, remember a little ginger, garlic, fresh herbs, lime juice, sherry or balsamic vinegar added during the last few minutes can punch up the flavor, Kimball says.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

[e-mail]

SALMON CHOWDER WITH YUKON GOLD POTATOES

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 leeks (white part only), rinsed well and chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon dried tarragon 

2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

4 cups reduced-sodium chicken OR vegetable broth

1 1/2 cups leftover cooked salmon, broken into pieces OR 1 1/2 cups peeled and deveined small OR medium cooked shrimp, fresh or frozen (no need to thaw first)

1 (12-ounce) can evaporated fat-free milk OR low-fat milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add leeks and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add tarragon and cook 1 minute, until fragrant. Add potatoes and broth and bring to a simmer. Partially cover pan and simmer until potatoes are fork-tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in salmon and milk and simmer 2 minutes to heat through. Remove from heat, season to taste with salt and pepper and serve (in hollowed out round individual bread bowls, if desired).

Makes 4 servings

From "Robin Miller Quick Fix Meals, 200 Simple, Delicious Recipes to Make Mealtime Easy."

ROASTED TOMATO-BASIL SOUP

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup frozen chopped onion

1 teaspoon bottled minced garlic

3 (14.5-ounce) cans fire-roasted diced tomatoes, undrained

1/2 cup dry vermouth

1/2 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

10 large fresh basil leaves

Salt

Ground black pepper

1/2 cup whipping cream

Coarsely chopped fresh basil (optional)

In a large saucepan, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic; cook and stir 1 minute.

Add tomatoes, vermouth, chicken broth, 10 basil leaves and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil; reduce heat. Simmer 5 minutes; remove from heat.

Working in batches, puree mixture in blender (see Note). Season with additional salt and pepper. Return puree to saucepan. Add whipping cream and heat through. Garnish with chopped basil. Serve hot.

Makes 4 servings

NOTE: When blending hot liquids, fill blender bowl only 1/2 full and place a kitchen towel over lid. Always start with lower blender settings before moving to the puree setting. Or, if desired, use a handheld immersion blender to puree the mixture.

From "Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade, 20-Minute Meals."

QUICK POBLANO-CORN CHOWDER WITH TORTILLA STRIPS

2 teaspoons olive oil

1/2 cup diced yellow onion

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 poblano chile, seeded and chopped

1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce 

1 teaspoon dried oregano 

6 cups reduced-sodium chicken OR vegetable broth

3 cups fresh OR frozen corn

1 large Idaho potato, peeled and diced

2 bay leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup low-fat milk

1/2 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese (regular OR reduced fat)

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 cup tortilla strips OR tortilla chips

Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and garlic and cook 1 minute. Stir in poblano, chipotle and oregano. Add broth, corn, potato, bay leaves and salt; bring to a boil, and boil until potato is fork-tender, about 8 minutes. Stir in milk and cheese and simmer until cheese melts.

Remove bay leaves and puree about 1 cup chowder in a blender or food processor until smooth. Return puree to pot and mix well. Remove from heat and stir in cilantro. Ladle soup into bowls, top with tortilla strips and serve.

Makes 4 servings

From "Robin Miller Quick Fix Meals, 200 Simple, Delicious Recipes to Make Mealtime Easy."

CREAMY ROASTED RED PEPPER SOUP WITH CRUMBLED FETA

2 (16-ounce) jars roasted red peppers, drained

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup sliced mushrooms

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 bay leaves

6 cups reduced-sodium vegetable broth

1/2 cup low-fat milk

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil

Salt and cayenne pepper

1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese

Place red peppers in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Set aside. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add mushrooms and cook until softened and until liquid is released, about 3 minutes. Stir in thyme, oregano and bay leaves. Add red pepper puree and broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, partially cover pan, and simmer 5 minutes. Add milk and simmer 1 minute to heat through. Remove from heat, remove bay leaves, and stir in basil. Season to taste with salt and cayenne. Ladle soup into bowls and top with feta. Soup is good served warm or chilled.

Makes 4 servings

From "Robin Miller Quick Fix Meals, 200 Simple, Delicious Recipes to Make Mealtime Easy."

ASIAN CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP

6 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1 (2-inch) piece ginger, chopped coarse

2 garlic cloves, chopped coarse

2 tablespoons dry sherry

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts

Salt and ground black pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 onion, minced

1 small head bok choy, greens sliced thin and stalks chopped medium

1 (3-ounce) bag ramen noodles, seasoning packet discarded

2 green onions, sliced thin

Bring broth, ginger, garlic, sherry and soy sauce to a boil, covered, in large saucepan and set aside.

Meanwhile, pat chicken dry with paper towels, then season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken lightly on both sides, about 5 minutes total. Transfer chicken to plate.

Add onion and 1/4 teaspoon salt to fat left in Dutch oven and cook over medium-high heat until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Turn heat to low and strain broth into Dutch oven, scraping up any browned bits. Add bok choy stalks and browned chicken. Cook, covered, until chicken is cooked through and no longer pink in center, about 10 minutes.

Remove chicken from pot and stir in noodles. Increase heat to medium-high and cook until noodles are just tender, about 3 minutes.

While noodles are cooking, shred chicken into bite-sized pieces. Stir in bok choy greens and cook until just wilted, about 1 minute. Off heat, stir in shredded chicken and green onions. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

Makes 6 servings

From "The Best 30-Minute Recipe," by the editors of Cook's Illustrated.

TORTILLA SOUP

3 teaspoons vegetable oil

4 (5- OR 6-inch) corn tortillas, cut into 2x1/2-inch strips

1 medium onion, chopped

2 (14-ounce) cans vegetable broth

1 (10-ounce) can chopped tomatoes and green chiles, undrained

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro OR parsley

In a 2-quart nonstick saucepan, heat 2 teaspoons oil over medium-high heat. Add tortilla strips; cook 30 to 60 seconds, stirring occasionally, until crisp and light golden brown. Remove from saucepan; drain on paper towels.

In same saucepan, cook remaining 1 teaspoon oil and onion over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until onion is tender. Stir in broth and tomatoes. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat to low; simmer uncovered 20 minutes. Stir in lime juice. Serve soup over tortilla strips; garnish with cilantro.

Makes 4 servings

From "Betty Crocker Easy Everyday Vegetarian, Meatless Main Dishes You'll Love!"

CAPTION(S):

5 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Soups to savor

... without spending all day in the kitchen

From "The Best 30-Minute Recipe," America's Test Kitchen

(2 -- 4 -- color) Clockwise from top: Quick Poblano Corn Chowder With Tortilla Strips, Roasted Tomato-Basil Soup and Tortilla Soup. All are deliciously hearty -- and quick to prepare.

From "Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade 20-Minute Meals," Meredith Books

From "Betty Crocker Easy Everyday Vegetarian," Wiley Publishing Inc.

(5 -- color) SALMON CHOWDER WITH YUKON GOLD POTATOES

From "Robin Miller Quick Fix Meals, 200 Simple, Delicious Recipes to Make Mealtime Easy," The Taunton Press