IN THE SWIM WITH EASY-COOK SALMON DISHES.

Byline: William Rice Chicago Tribune

Among the qualities that attract contemporary cooks to fish, in addition to its healthful properties, is how quickly it cooks. Standard practice is to allow 10 minutes per inch of thickness to prepare the fish, no matter what the manner of cooking.

Chefs sing the praises of cooking a fish whole, or on the bone. They say the meat then is more moist and succulent. But Americans are violently allergic to seafood attached to bones, so most fin fish sold in markets and restaurants has been cut into easy-to-handle fillets or steaks. Rarely, except for connoisseur steaks of tuna, swordfish or halibut, will a piece of fish exceed an inch in thickness.

So fish - especially scaled, boned and filleted fish - is a time-saver all by itself.

The problem, in fact, usually arises with what we put on, under or around the fish. The great fish sauces of classic French cuisine - among them Hollandaise, Mornay, remoulade - are seen less often, in part because of the time it takes to make them and in part because of their tendency to clog arteries.

In their place have come waves of flavored broths and oils, salsas, marinades and spicy rubs. So widespread is this coverup that it would be a shock (you can be virtually assured of not encountering this in a contemporary restaurant) to see a piece of fish in the nude, so to speak, on a plate or platter. This trend, in turn, has decreased demand for delicate white-fleshed fish because they tend to flake and crumble when removed from the bone and handled too much. (A pricey exception to this generality is the true Dover sole.)

All of which brings us to salmon, the fish of the moment in restaurants, at catered parties and even at family meals.

The following recipes are examples of the eclectic, quick preparations to which salmon is so well suited. The salmon in the first dish may be served warm or at room temperature.

POACHED SALMON WITH MUSTARD SEED VINAIGRETTE

Water

1/2 cup pickling spices

4 salmon steaks (6 to 8 ounces EACH)

1/4 cup chopped onion

1 tablespoon chopped fresh garlic

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1/4 cup grainy Dijon mustard

1/4 cup rice wine vinegar

1/2 cup olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

2 teaspoons black mustard seeds (available at Asian markets and specialty food shops

In a large pot, combine 4 quarts of water and pickling spices. Bring water to a boil. Add fish and poach at a bare simmer 12 to 15 minutes. Remove fish from water, drain and cut away and discard skin.

Meanwhile, in a blender or food processor, combine onion, garlic, parsley, mustard and vinegar. Blend until smooth, then slowly add olive oil. Pour sauce into a bowl and season with salt and pepper.

To serve, spread 1/4 cup sauce on each of 4 plates. Top with a warm or room-temperature salmon steak and garnish with black mustard seeds. Serve with a lightly chilled pinot noir. Makes 4 servings.

SPICED GRILLED SALMON

2 salmon steaks (6 to 8 ounces EACH)

1 teaspoon Cajun spice mix (such as Paul Prudhomme's)

1/2 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

Rinse steaks and pat dry.

In a shallow bowl or soup plate, combine spice mix, soy sauce and oyster sauce. Mix well.

Add salmon steaks and marinate 30 minutes at room temperature, turning at least twice or 1 to 2 hours in refrigerator, covered.

Preheat broiler or grill. Cook salmon 4 to 5 minutes on each side.

Serve with stir-fried watercress or spinach and an Alsace gewurtztraminer wine. Makes 2 servings.

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Photo

Photo: (color) For an easy and elegant fish entree, try Poa ched Salmon With Mustard Seed Vinaigrette.

Tony Berardi/Chicago Tribune