IN THE PINK THIS PLAYFUL SHADE IS THE SEASON'S STANDOUT.

Byline: Barbara De Witt  Fashion Editor

Bubble gum, cotton candy and Cosmopolitan cocktails.

Cinderella's gown, ballet slippers and Brigitte Bardot's bikini in ``And God Created Woman.''

In a word ... pink.

Whether a mere blush of pink or a steamy hothouse fuchsia, it's the color of the season for men, women and children.

``These days it's OK for guys to cry and wear pink, but on the runways in New York we noticed it was a darker, sexier shade, while spring shades for women were lighter ... more romantic, like pink champagne,'' says Pantone Color Institute spokeswoman Leatrice Eiseman.

Calling pink the new orange, Eiseman predicts we'll see an abundance of bright pink throughout the spring and summer, mostly in monochromatic ensembles for women or paired with white or black. In the fall, pinks will get darker and be paired with military green and brown.

Sherry Payne, who teaches the philosophy of color at the Fashion Institute in Los Angeles, observes, ``Pink has always been linked to femininity in the United States, but it really has more to do with youthful, playful personalities.''

Leon Hall, co-host of E! ``Fashion Emergency'' and spokesman for the New York-based Fashion Association, says he's glad pink is back because he thinks it's the happiest shade on the color wheel.

``Pink has no hidden agenda. It doesn't try to be sophisticated like black, sexy like red or sober like blue, and it goes well with most colors and anybody can wear it. In fact, whenever I wear a pink tie, I always get compliments on it ... and I think it's because pink worn near your face flatters your complexion.''

There have been numerous color studies that have shown pink also has a calming effect and that's why it's often used in jail holding cells, say Hall and Payne. Keeping that in mind, Hall suspects pink could provide relief for anybody suffering from the slowing of the economy.

In regard to women's wear, Hall says pink pairs perfectly with the latest skin-baring styles such as cropped pants and halter tops often made in fabrics that stretch and shine, as well as dresses in gingham and polka dots.

A quick look at the mall proved everybody's thinking pink. There are ladylike sheaths at Talbots, sassy zip-front suits at the Limited and halter dresses by mainstream designers such as Liz Claiborne at Robinsons- May and Macy's. All worn with shoes and purses to match, plus flower corsages that can be pinned on the shoulder or waist or worn on a ribbon tied at the throat.

For sportier occasions, Jones New York has a medium pink cotton duster to wear with black pants and a stretchy white T-shirt, and numerous designers at Nordstrom offer ribbed knit cotton undershirts with glittery slogans like ``Princess'' across the chest - meant to be worn skin-tight under tiny denim or paper thin leather jackets.

On his own trip to Neiman Marcus in Beverly Hills for another pink tie, Hall was told they were sold out.

But menswear designers aren't tied to ties.

In his spring collection, Los Angeles designer Max Azria has pale pink tees to wear under print shirts or leather jackets, as well as bright pink cotton tuxedo shirts, and voile scarves that work like ascots.

Numerous high-fashion designers would have us looking through rose- colored lenses. The House of Chloe now offers heart-shaped pink shades last seen in the remake of ``Lolita,'' while Cartier has created sophisticated platinum-toned frames with pink lenses and Celine has a fanciful pair of aviator shades in two tones of pink. Spring has barely begun, but knockoff shades abound, found everywhere from junior fashion shops to drugstores with fashion reinforcement from the film ``Charlie's Angels.''

There's even the scent of pink this season.

Victoria's Secret has named its new light floral fragrance Pink, while other new scents have been tinted pink, including Emanuel Ungaro's Desnuda and Lancome's Miracle.

To complement all that, cosmetic manufacturers have quickly changed color palettes. Instead of the deep reds and browns of previous seasons, OPI has introduced its Beach Party collection with several pastels, including Strawberried in the Sand nail polish, and Chanel has introduced Party Pink and Rose Baby nail tints.

Yves St. Laurent also has pretty pinks for the lips and eyes, and the new SkinMarket cosmetic store has numerous pink novelties, but Valerie Beverly Hills boutique has tucked all of her pink Baby Face cosmetics into a silvery compact that comes packaged in a pastel-pink leather pouch.

If this latest fashion trend doesn't make you happy, be patient.

In spring of '02 grape will be the new pink, predicts Eiseman.

SPECTACULAR

Fashionistas wil have a feast of fashions this month.

It's the ``Fashion Spectacular'' on the Women's Entertainment network, hosted by supermodel Cindy Crawford, with a series of movie marathons, documentaries and interviews with hot designers, including Donatella Versace.

The fashion show begins at 9 p.m. Saturday with ``Fashion Flashback, '' a four-part special about all our favorite trends, followed by two fashion -infused films, Katherine Hepburn, above, in ``Stage Door'' and Marlene Dietrich in ``No Highway in the Sky.'' ``Fashion Spectacular'' continues each Saturday and Sunday evening thoughout the month.

CAPTION(S):

14 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- color) Baby Face compact by Valerie Beverly Hills.

(2 -- color) Lipsticks by Yves St. Laurent.

(3 -- color) Lancome's new Miracle perfume is in the pink.

(4 -- 5 -- color) Fashion-forward aviator frames at Celine boutique in Beverly Hills. Chloe's heart-shaped shades available at Sunglass Hut stores.

(6 -- color) Straw barrette from Frederic Fekkai Salon, Beverly Hills.

(7 -- color) Polka dots by Liz Claiborne at Robinsons-May, Macy's.

(8 -- color) Flower corsages such as this leather design by Eve Reid at Saks Fifth Avenue are blooming again for spring.

(9 -- color) Tropical prints are pretty in pink, at Ann Taylor stores.

(10 -- color) Menswear gets a touch of pink from BCBG Max Azria at Bloomingdale's and other department stores.

(11 -- color) Old-fashioned fabrics such as this gingham scarf at the Gap have made a comeback for girls of all ages.

(12 -- color) Purses and scarf by Kate Spade at Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus.

(13 -- color) Stretch tie front top and cropped pants from Harve Benard.

(14) no caption (Katherine Hepburn)

Box: SPECTACULAR (see text)