IN THE KITCHEN WITH ROSIE AT HOMEY CAFE DU LIBAN.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

Although its intriguing name, Cafe du Liban, suggests something French is in the offing, this new Tarzana replacement for Mediterranean Feast reveals nary a soupcon of Gallic influence.

Instead, the ``Cafe of Lebanon'' is mostly what you'd expect - Lebanese, with a couple of soupcons of Turkish and Armenian flavorings.

Chef-owner Rosie Nemr from Lebanon with a family heritage from both Turkey and Armenia, brings these culinary accents peacefully together in this casual mini-mall setting complete with outside tables for the inevitable smokers.

There are attractive display cases of pastries between the cooking area and the inside dining tables.

And a large black-and-white depiction on one wall portrays Lebanese women baking with the ancient sajj oven still used extensively in certain Mediterranean countries.

Nemr actually bakes her own sajj bread, reminiscent of Italian focaccia, and it can be ordered here plain, served in toasted wedges as zahtar ($2.75) topped with an oregano, thyme and olive oil mixture and sprinkled with sesame seeds.

Or it comes as sandwiches with cheese ($3.25), labneh (minted yogurt spread, $4) or meat (basturma - like pastrami - or kafta, ground lamb or chicken, $4 each).

As a place for grazing, or for more formalized meal-taking, the familiar Middle Eastern appetizers like hummus and baba ghannoujh ($4.50 each), tabbouleh ($4.75) and stuffed grape leaves ($6.50) can be had separately or as a combo plate ($9.95) with a moussaka-style mixture of eggplant, garbanzos, onions and tomatoes.

And they are all done very nicely here.

The moussaka ($4.75), delicious, but a soupier version than that usually encountered from a Greek kitchen, can also be ordered individually.

Nemr makes kibbi, falafel, bouracs (filo turnovers stuffed with spinach, cheese or meat), and a grilled pita sandwich called arrayes ($5) stuffed with ground meat or chicken cooked with onions and parsley. The latter is a nifty crisped tidbit usually served cut into four pieces and perched on a green salad.

Although her kitchen has a tendency to slightly overcook, the food is generally tasty and full-flavored.

One time there was lamb ghallabba ($11.95) with chunks of meat that were mostly chewy. On another day a kebab of lamb presented similar problems with a few pieces, but not as many as the previous time.

But the chicken kebab chunks seemed to retain more moisture, though they, too, had dryish spots.

Ground meat items appear to be preferable choices when possible.

However, the rice mixture here is first-rate, and so are the vegetable accompaniments.

Soups (hot spicy lentil and cold refreshing yogurt and cucumber, $2 or $3) are gratifying in all ways, a much better pick than the house salad.

Nemr is a motherly sort when it comes to her dining domain. She won't hesitate, especially when short-staffed, to jump out of the kitchen and pamper customers with complimentary appetizer or sajj bread samples.

And there are noticeable triumphs.

Her Turkish-style dolma ($7.95), for example, available only on Wednesdays, has no grape leaves in sight. Instead, it turns up as a homey recipe of squash stuffed with a pleasing rice mixture, providing a thoroughly enjoyable nonmeat entree.

And on the sweet side, save room for the rosewater-flavored mhallabi ($2.25), a white custard-like pudding topped with a colorful sprinkling of pistachios and almonds surrounding a sweet blob of orange-flower jam.

Cafe du Liban seems to be the kind of restaurant that grows on you, taking several visits to find the dishes and accompaniments one would most appreciate.

For example, if you're a garlic lover, you'll find that the special garlic paste here served as a side for spreading, dipping or daubing with chicken, is unquestionably addictive.

Even without a French connection.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Cafe du Liban.

Where: 19223 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana.

When: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: Hummus tahini, baba ghannoujh, tabbouleh, moussaka, vegetarian combo of appetizers, arrayes with ground meat, sajj bread (zahtar-style) or as sandwiches, spicy lentil soup, cold yogurt and cucumber soup, kafta kebab, Turkish dolma (served on Wednesdays) and Turkish dawood bacha meatballs (served on Thursdays), mhallabi dessert.

How much: Starters and sandwiches from $2 to $10, entrees from $8 to $16, desserts from $1 to $4.25. No alcohol. Major credit cards accepted. Belly dancers Saturday night.

Reservations: Taken on Saturday only. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three stars for food; Three stars for service.

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Photo

Photo: Chef-owner Rosie Nemr mixes Lebanese flavorings with Turkish and Armenian accents at her Cafe du Liban in Tarzana.

Gus Ruelas/Daily News