IN THE GARDEN RIDDING THE SOIL OF NASTY NEMATODES.
Byline: JOSHUA SISKIN
Q: Within the last few years, my yard has become infested in·fest
tr.v. in·fest·ed, in·fest·ing, in·fests
1. To inhabit or overrun in numbers or quantities large enough to be harmful, threatening, or obnoxious: with root-knot nematodes. This is very frustrating because I have a hard time growing many plants and vegetables. Do you have any recommendations? I try to do everything organic when I can.
Ray Mathieu, Glendale
A: Nematodes are microscopic, unsegmented worms that produce obstructing knots or nodules Nodules
A small mass of tissue in the form of a protuberance or a knot that is solid and can be detected by touch.
Mentioned in: Leprosy in plant roots, impairing roots' ability to take up water and minerals. Nematodes tend to inhabit sandy soil and are difficult, if not impossible, to eradicate once they have a foothold. One cultural control is to till the ground every 10 days during hot weather. This brings nematodes to the surface, where they die from desiccation des·ic·ca·tion
The process of being desiccated.
Soil solarization, where tilled and moistened soil is covered with clear plastic during the hottest months, may also curb nematode nematode
Any of more than 15,000 named and many more unnamed species of worms in the class Nematoda (phylum Aschelminthes). Nematodes include plant and animal parasites and free-living forms found in soil, freshwater, saltwater, and even vinegar soil populations. Nematodes would seriously restrict orchard production were it not for the nematode-resistant rootstock rootstock: see rhizome. known as Nemaguard. About 85 percent of almond, peach, plum and nectarine nectarine (nĕk'tərēn`), name for a tree (Prunus persica var. nectarina) of the family Rosaceae (rose family) and for its fruit, a smooth-skinned variety of the peach. trees in California are grafted with this rootstock. If you purchase one of these trees for your yard, make sure the rootstock is Nemaguard. When purchasing tomato seeds, the packet must bear the initials VFN VFN Very Fine
VFN Virtual File Network
VFN Night Fighter Squadron/Night Fighter
VFN Vanderpool, Frostick & Nishanian, PC (law firm; Manassas, VA)
VFN Vendor Feature Node
VFN Virtual File System Network . The ``N'' in this acronym means that the variety within is resistant to nematodes. (The ``V'' and the ``F'' represent resistance to Verticilium and Fusarium Fusarium
a genus of fungi; some species are plant pathogens and some are opportunistic infectious agents of humans and animals. Many also produce trichothecene toxins which cause poisoning of animals if the infected material, usually stored feed, is eaten. fungus.)
Asparagus, corn, onions, garlic, and strawberries are resistant to nematodes, as are 'Charleston Belle' and `Carolina Wonder' bell peppers, 'Nemagreen' lima beans and 'Carolina Cayenne' chili peppers. Marigolds, zinnias and salvias are also unaffected by nematodes.
Q: are wondering about broccoli for our garden. We saw some starter plants at the nursery - is that the best way to go? When is the right time to plant? How and when is harvesting done? What about feeding and watering? What other vegetables would you suggest for planting at this time?
Lyman and Lorraine Young, Simi Valley
A: In the Valley, winter is the preferred season for planting cole crops or crucifers, so-called on account of their cross-shaped flowers. These vegetables include broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts Brussels sprouts, variety (gemmifera) of cabbage producing small edible heads (sprouts) along the stem. It is cultivated like cabbage and was first developed in Belgium and France in the 18th cent. , kale kale, borecole (bôr`kōl), and collards, common names for nonheading, hardy types of cabbage (var. , kohlrabi kohlrabi (kōl`rä`bē) [Ger. partly from Ital.,=turnip cabbage], plant (Brassica caulorapa, sometimes classified as var. caulorapa , collard greens Noun 1. collard greens - kale that has smooth leaves
cole, kail, kale - coarse curly-leafed cabbage and cabbage. Starter crucifer seedlings, as opposed to seeds that might not sprout, are a good way to go. Plant them deep, up to the lowest set of leaves, so they don't flop over when planted. Water as needed. I would fertilize with a liquid organic fertilizer because it will not burn your plants and helps with soil conditioning. Harvest when crops are large enough to eat. Don't expect gigantic specimens like you see at the supermarket unless your soil is outstanding, meaning it drains well and is full of compost. Preparing soil for vegetable planting is a science of its own. The best books on the subject are by Eliot Coleman, author of ``The New Organic Grower'' and ``Four Season Harvest''; and by John Jeavons, whose classic work, ``How to Grow More Vegetables, Fruits, Nuts, Berries, Grains, and Other Crops Than You Ever Thought Possible on Less Land Than You Can Imagine,'' has become the preferred how-to manual for vegetable and fruit growers all over the world.
Q: A few weeks ago, we purchased a round glass container at Costco with a number of tulip bulbs in it that sat on a rack with water in the compartment at the bottom. The instructions were to keep the water level so only the bulbs were submerged. The bulbs did exactly what the instructions said they would and grew tall and then each and every one of them bloomed beautifully. When the blooms die away can we reuse those bulbs, and how should they be handled?
Marshall Maydeck, Arleta
A: Because of their winter chill requirement, Dutch tulips are not meant for our climate and will probably not flower next year if planted in the soil after blooming. The only way they might flower is if you keep them in sand in the garage until next September, then put them in the refrigerator for six weeks, and plant them again in the same glass container or in the garden. You may want to search out Tulipa clusiana, a bulb native to the Middle East that is not as spectacular as the Dutch hybrids, but will bloom in mild winter climates such as ours. Planted in the garden, Tulipa clusiana will bloom for several years at least.
TIP OF THE WEEK: This tip comes from John King of Granada Hills: ``I'm not sure where I heard this, but it works for me and my female Lab. Adding an ounce of tomato juice to her evening meal keeps the burn spots in the grass to a minimum.''