IN BURGER WARS, WHICH ONE GETS TWO BUNS UP?

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

The hamburger voted the best by the Daily News Tasting Panel in the limited tasting of two pairs of hotly competing burgers from McDonald's and Burger King turned out to be a 99-cent one.

It was McDonald's Big 'n' Tasty that ended up the overall winner, with an aggregate 78 points out of a possible 100.

One panelist actually gave it the highest possible score, 20 points, with kudos on the score sheet like, ``nice toasted bun; good overall flavor'' and ``this is how a burger should taste.''

On the negative side, the same burger drew comments such as ``too much onion; lettuce limp; meat drier and tasteless.''

Its direct competition, Burger King's Whopper, drew comments such as ``meat needs work,'' ``sweet-flavored condiments overshadow the beef,'' ``tomato saves it,'' ``good-size patty,'' ``big patty,'' ``no tomato.''

Of the remaining two, McDonald's Big Mac was hit hard with words such as ``soggy bun - yuk,'' ``insipid,'' ``overcooked meat,'' ``needs more tomatoes, lettuce and onions,'' ``no tomato,'' ``too much bread - 3 layers,'' ``lettuce, wilted pieces.''

Yet, it was also described as having ``not bad overall taste'' and ``great sauce.''

And somewhat quietly, the new Big King, the double-burger that Burger King introduced to compete with the twin-patty Big Mac, elicited such comments as ``larger patties,'' ``better beef flavor,'' ``good meat,'' ``overall tastiest'' and ``much more meat.''

And, though certain panel members questioned the cheese, the sauce, the somewhat soggy bottom bun and a possibility of over-saltiness in the Big King, there was no doubt that this burger's extra meatiness gave it the nod over its famous counterpart.

Meanwhile, in the purchasing process, we found out that with so many deals on their burgers, the big chains sometimes confuse their staff members.

When a phone call was made to one of the local Burger Kings, the person who answered quoted the prices for both the Big King and the Whopper as 99 cents.

However, when they were purchased within the hour, the Big King's price had gone up to $1.69.

Evidently, the price change had occurred that morning, and not everyone working there had been notified.

So we ended up paying 99 cents for the Whopper and $1.69 for the Big King.

The Big Mac, on the other hand, turned out to be our big-ticket burger at $2.19, while McDonald's Big 'n' Tasty, the panel's number one choice, matched its adversary, the Whopper, at 99 cents.

This panel evidently leaned more towards the flatter, large, single patty burger than the taller, small double patty rendition.

It also learned that whatever is determined the best isn't necessarily the most expensive.

And that sometimes the kitchen forgets to slap on a slice or two of tomato.

Get a better hamburger

Smart chain burger buyers have discovered that one way to beat the assembly line product that often produces soggy buns, wilted lettuce and dry patties is to ask for one with something different from the routine burger. Ask for extra sauce or no lettuce and you may get lucky and receive a better overall product that's been made up separately.

One savvy burger fancier always asks for fries without salt, insuring freshly made ones instead of those that have been sitting around waiting. Salt can always be added later, anyway, she said.

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos, Chart, Box

Photo: (1) Jerry Dorfman, 13, takes his best bite in the burger battle.

(2) 30-something representative Jenny Grimsley speaks her mind.

John McCoy/Daily News

Chart: DAILY NEWS BURGER TASTING 1997

Box: Get a better burger (See Text)