IF YOUR GARDEN RUNNETH OVER ...; TURN TOMATO AND BASIL HARVEST INTO MORE THAN SPAGHETTI SAUCE.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Your sun-drenched garden's overflowing with prolific crops of tomatoes and basil, and they're absolutely wonderful - what you've waited for all year.

But you're getting tomatoed out and tired of eating them plain in sandwiches, salads and pasta. You need to dress and spruce them up - and give them a little pizazz - and store some for a taste of summer later in the year.

Fortunately, there's no shortage of recipes, both cooked and uncooked, teaming tomatoes and basil in appetizers, sauces, soups, salsas, pizzas, pastas, salads, chilis and more.

Some recipes call for peeling and seeding the tomatoes, while others use the skin and all. If you opt for seeded tomatoes when cooking, simply halve the tomatoes and in the palm of your hand gently squeeze out the liquid and seeds (into the sink). If you prefer removing the skin, cut an X in the bottom of the tomato opposite the stem end and plunge into a pot of boiling water 15 to 20 seconds. Remove and cool them enough to handle; then peel off the skin.

``Tomato and basil are the perfect marriage,'' says Lee Hefter, executive chef at Spago in Beverly Hills. ``A good tomato offers a meaty flavor, and the basil is a nice flavor enhancer. I remember when I was a kid growing up in New Jersey, and we had tomatoes and basil in the garden - and it was almost as though they were planted for each other.'' His mother served the combination in salads, on pasta and stuffed inside zucchini.

These days, Hefter is busy concocting and offering customers an innovative symphony of tomatoes - a fabulous, must-try sampler plate with five or six different tomato-and-basil creations - that should be available into October. Recently, it included a fresh slice of a vine-ripened heirloom tomato lightly salted with French sea salt, a slice of fresh buffalo mozzarella, a drizzling of Ligurian olive oil and a sprinkling of chopped fresh basil and cracked pepper along with a roasted confit of tomato (made with peeled and deseeded blanched tomatoes drizzled with olive oil and salt and pepper and baked 1 to 2 hours at 150 degrees F) served with preserved lemon (substitute zest of lemon), capers and basil oil.

It also came with fresh tomato soup topped with a savory basil whipped cream (whipped cream with blanched, pureed basil leaves folded in); a cherry tomato salad with red and yellow and green cherry tomatoes topped with shaved French goat cheese, black olive tapenade, a julienne of fresh basil, olive oil and balsamic vinegar; and a tartare of tomato on a crouton with a dollop of basil aioli (a puree of blanched basil and blanched spinach folded into mayonnaise). Who said you can't be creative with tomatoes and basil?

Spago also offers angel hair pasta with fresh tomatoes and basil, a classic on the menu since the restaurant opened.

Which all goes to prove that, flavor and fragrance-wise, there's nothing to compare with home-grown tomatoes and basil - from the back yard or local farmers' markets. One taste, and you'll be hooked - and spoiled! It's no secret - the commercial varieties found in grocery stores don't even come close.

Joanne Weir, television cooking show cook and author of ``You Say Tomato,'' (Broadway Books; $15) also finds tomatoes and basil a perfect combination. ``They have the same wonderful sweetness that seems to enhance each other.'' Weir, who spent four years developing recipes for her book and currently grows cherry tomatoes and basil in pots at her San Francisco digs, shares numerous delicious creations with tomatoes and basil.

When preparing them, she reminds cooks to add a sprinkling of salt to bring out the flavors. If the tomatoes lack sweetness and flavor, a splash of balsamic vinegar will bring out the sweetness and acidity of the tomatoes, she advised. Another trick: If the tomatoes aren't perfect, when making salads add a little honey to the vinaigrette to bring out the sweetness of the tomatoes and give viscosity to the dressing.

High on her list of fast favorites with the duo is cooked pasta tossed with cherry tomato halves, salt, balsamic vinegar, extra virgin olive olive and a chiffonade of basil - and topped with a sprinkling of crispy bread crumbs.

To hold on to those memories that taste of summer year 'round, Weir turns her fresh tomato and basil crops into sauces and freezes them. For best results, start with the most flavorful, luscious and ripe tomatoes you can find. Weir opts to use a food mill to avoid peeling, seeding and chopping the tomatoes prior to cooking.

The classic pizza margherita and an Italian tomato and garlic soup also rank at the top of good-eating tomato and basil experiences for Weir. She also adores turning a traditional pesto into a Silician specialty by adding chopped fresh tomatoes and then using it on pasta and vegetables.

Another tasty idea: Add some tomato paste or finely chopped fresh tomatoes, a pinch of cayenne, a little paprika and some chopped basil to store-bought mayonnaise and use as a spread on tomato sandwiches. Bruschetta or crostini with chopped tomatoes, basil, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and salt is divine, too.

Even simpler is basil-infused oil (warm the oil, add chopped fresh basil, then turn off and cool) poured over chopped cherry tomatoes splashed with a few drops of red wine vinegar.

Weir's lifelong love affair with tomatoes started with tomato sandwiches her mother served when she was 5 years old, she noted. ``I can still taste them - toasted homemade bread, mayonnaise and sliced tomatoes with a little sprinkling of salt.'' You can even add a little onion, basil, dill or cucumber. Gary Ibsen, author of the recently released ``The Great Tomato Book,'' (Ten Speed Press; $14.95) is another tomato and basil fan. He delights in using the combination in a tomato tower - four alternate layers of 1/4-inch thick slices of different colors of heirloom tomatoes and fresh mozzarella cheese that are then drizzled with basil-infused oil and presented in a shallow pond of the oil.

He also partners the two in basil tomato gelato (ice cream that is sweet and refreshing with a hint of basil), salsas, Tuscan bread salad, tortellini with basil balsamic vinaigrette and sauces that he freezes to use all winter long. ``I can change the frozen sauce, depending on the mood I'm in. Sometimes I add olives, anchovies, more garlic and more fresh basil.''

His basic sauce cooks together olive oil, unpeeled tomatoes chopped in the food processor (squeeze out seeds first), fresh garlic cloves, fresh basil, fresh parsley, a few red pepper flakes, black pepper, fresh oregano, a dash each salt and sugar and fresh ground thyme on top of the stove over low heat two hours.

After the sauce has cooked, he noted, you'll end up with a layer of water on the top. Remove the tomato sauce water and freeze it to use as a base for cioppino, soups, etc. ``It's just as valuable as the tomato sauce, which can be served as is or freshened up and used as a foundation for other creations.''

Ibsen is so passionate about growing and loving tomatoes that he founded TomatoFest, a tomato tasting festival that started out in his back yard in Carmel eight years ago with friends and 20 chefs bringing tomato creations and has since moved to Quail Lodge in Carmel. This year's attendees will have an opportunity to sample 200 varieties of Ibsen's home-grown tomatoes along with tomato dishes - from appetizers and entrees to desserts - created by 50 chefs from Central California and Arizona.

During the harvest season, Ibsen drives around with tomatoes - his jewels - in his trunk. ``I pull them out and give them to people I meet and friends. They're my gifts of the season and are better than gold.''

Now it's time to jazz up your tomato and basil repertoire with these ideas.

TUSCAN BREAD SALAD

Known as panzanella in Italy, this salad makes the perfect light supper on a summer evening, when both tomatoes and basil are at their peak.

12 ounces day-old Italian OR French bread

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

3 large ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped

1 large yellow bell pepper, coarsely chopped

1 pound mozzarella cheese, preferably fresh, cut into 1/2-inch dice

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon drained capers

1 cup basil leaves, slivered

12 romaine lettuce leaves

Cut bread into rough 3/4-inch cubes and place in a large bowl.

In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Pour dressing over bread and toss to mix well.

Add tomatoes, bell pepper, mozzarella cheese, garlic, capers and basil. Mix gently but thoroughly. Arrange romaine leaves on a serving platter and spoon salad over leaves. Makes 6 servings.

From ``365 Great 20-Minute Recipes'' by Beverly Cox (HarperCollins).

ANGEL HAIR POMODORO

4 to 6 ripe medium tomatoes, quartered

1/2 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

Water

2 packages (9 ounces EACH) fresh angel hair pasta

6 tablespoons freshly grated Romano cheese

In a food processor, combine tomatoes, basil, garlic, salt and pepper. Pulse machine to chop coarsely. Stir in 1 tablespoon oil. Marinate 10 minutes.

In a large pot of rapidly boiling water, cook pasta until barely tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain well, then toss with remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.

Place pasta on a serving platter and pour on fresh tomato sauce. Sprinkle cheese on top. Makes 6 servings.

From ``365 Great 20-Minute Recipes'' by Beverly Cox (HarperCollins).

GRILLED EGGPLANT AND MOZZARELLA SANDWICHES

1/4 cup Italian dressing made with olive oil

12 ounces baby eggplant OR Japanese eggplant, cut in 1/2-inch-thick lengthwise slices

2 large crusty rolls, split

3/4 cup sliced mozzarella cheese

1 large tomato, thinly sliced

1/4 cup fresh basil leaves

Prepare a moderately hot fire in a charcoal or gas grill.

On a platter, pour 2 tablespoons dressing over eggplant slices, turn to coat well. Grill eggplant over moderate heat, brushing with 1 tablespoon more dressing, until charred on both sides and soft within, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, brush cut sides of rolls with remaining 1 tablespoon dressing; place around edge of grill and toast until pale golden, about 2 minutes.

Layer rolls with eggplant, cheese, tomato and basil leaves and replace tops. Makes 2 servings.

From ``365 Great 20-Minute Recipes'' by Beverly Cox (HarperCollins).

PIZZA MARGHERITA

2 to 3 ripe plum tomatoes, halved

3 to 4 sprigs fresh basil

1 garlic clove

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 (8-inch) Italian flatbreads

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 cup shredded fontina cheese

1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

In a food processor, combine tomatoes, basil and garlic. Puree until coarsely chopped. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Brush flatbreads with oil. Spoon 1/2 of tomato sauce over each. Sprinkle each pizza with fontina, then mozzarella.

Bake in preheated 425-degree oven 10 to 12 minutes, until cheese is melted and crust is nicely browned. Makes 2 servings.

From ``365 Great 20-Minute Recipes'' by Beverly Cox (HarperCollins).

FRESH TOMATO SALAD WITH FETA CHEESE

4 ripe tomatoes, sliced

1 small sweet onion (Vidalia, Walla Walls OR Maui), thinly sliced

1 cup crumbled feta cheese

1 jar (2 ounces) green olives with pimiento, sliced

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons minced parsley

4 fresh basil leaves, slivered

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Arrange tomato and onion slices on a small, deep serving platter. Sprinkle with a layer of feta cheese and olives.

In a small bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, parsley, basil, salt and pepper. Pour dressing over salad and serve. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From ``365 Great 20-Minute Recipes'' by Beverly Cox (HarperCollins).

TOMATO KISSEL AND VANILLA-BASIL CREAM

This is an incredibly different soup. It's an ideal first-course soup or a light dessert soup to finish a heavy dinner. But, either way you enjoy it, like summer itself, it's pure ambrosia that's sure to be talked about long after it's gone. This recipe is from Jim Gallivan, Fess Parker's Wine Country Inn, Los Olivos, Calif.

4 cups fresh tomato juice OR canned tomato juice

1/2 cup sugar OR to taste

6 tablespoons potato flour

1 pound yellow tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

1 pound red tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

2 teaspoons prepared horseradish 

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Vanilla-Basil Cream

Combine tomato juice and sugar in a medium saucepan over a medium-low heat. (If tomato juice is sweet tasting, you won't need more sugar. You don't want the kissel overly sweet.)

Mix in potato flour. Stirring constantly, simmer about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in chopped tomatoes and horseradish. Season with salt and pepper.

Pour into a serving bowl and chill in refrigerator to allow flavors to meld. Pour Vanilla-Basil Cream into a squirt bottle and squirt a decorative squiggle of cream on top of each bowl of Tomato Kissel. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

VANILLA-BASIL CREAM: In a blender or food processor, combine 1 cup low-fat cottage cheese, 1 cup low-fat yogurt, 1/3 cup powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoon vanilla and 1/4 cup finely chopped basil leaves. Blend until smooth. Store in an airtight food container in refrigerator until ready to serve.

From ``The Great Tomato Cookbook'' by Gary Ibsen with Joan Nielsen (Ten Speed Press).

RED TOMATO SALSA 

This recipe is from Bunyan B. Fortune Jr., executive chef at the La Playa Hotel in Carmel.

1 pound red tomatoes, cut in 1/4-inch dice

1/2 red onion, cut in 1/4-inch dice

1 1/2 tablespoons red bell pepper, cut in 1/4-inch dice

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 jalapeno chile, stemmed, seeded and minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped basil

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients and refrigerate at least 1 hour to blend flavors. Serve in a festive bowl surrounded with warmed, salted tortilla chips. Makes about 2 3/4 cups salsa.

From ``The Great Tomato Cookbook'' by Gary Ibsen with Joan Nielsen (Ten Speed Press).

TOMATO, MOZZARELLA AND BASIL SALAD

6 assorted large tomatoes (yellow, gold, zebra-stripe, etc.) cut into 1/4-inch slices

1 pound fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/4-inch slices

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves

Alternate tomatoes and slices of mozzarella on a serving plate, overlapping slightly in rings.

In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil and vinegar. Season tomatoes with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle vinaigrette over tomatoes and garnish with basil leaves. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

From ``You Say Tomato'' by Joanne Weir (Broadway Books).

PEAK-SEASON TOMATO SAUCE

This is the sauce to make at the height of the season and freeze in containers to use later in the year during tomato-less months. Starting all of the ingredients in one pot at the same time is the secret. Use any type of tomato except cherry tomatoes. Serve this sauce with your favorite pasta.

4 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cored and halved

1 small red onion

6 garlic cloves, halved

3 sprigs fresh basil

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Place tomatoes, onion, garlic, basil and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes collapse, about 15 minutes. Reduce heat to low and simmer until sauce is thick, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Pass sauce through a food mill fitted with finest blade. Season to taste with salt and pepper, if necessary. Sauce can be refrigerated 1 week or frozen 2 months. Makes about 4 cups.

From ``You Say Tomato'' by Joanne Weir (Broadway Books).

SUMMER TOMATO SAUCE WITH BASIL AND BLACK OLIVES

Summer tomato sauces, full of flavor, cook in minutes. For this one, choose a pasta with a lot of surface area, such as fusilli or penne.

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 medium red onion, minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

4 medium ripe red tomatoes, diced

1 cup coarsely chopped fresh basil

1/3 cup pitted and chopped black olives, such as Kalamata OR Nicoise

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add red onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 7 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix together basil and olives.

Add tomatoes to basil and olives. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Reheat before serving.

Sauce can be stored in refrigerator up to 2 days and in freezer up to 2 months. Makes about 4 1/2 cups.

From ``You Say Tomato'' by Joanne Weir (Broadway Books).

SICILIAN TOMATO PESTO

1/4 cup pine nuts

4 cups fresh basil leaves

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 large ripe red tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped and drained

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat a small skillet over medium-high heat and add pine nuts. Cook, stirring constantly, until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Immediately remove from skillet.

Place basil leaves, garlic, pine nuts and olive oil in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Stop and scrape down sides. Add cheese and crushed red pepper and pulse a few times to make a thick paste.

Transfer to a bowl and fold in tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Makes about 2 1/2 cups.

From ``You Say Tomato'' by Joanne Weir (Broadway Books).

PAPPA AL POMODORO

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

12 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

5 large very ripe red tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced

6 ounces stale coarse-textured country-style bread

3 cups chicken stock

Water

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup fresh basil leaves, finely torn into 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

Heat olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and bread and cook until bread falls apart, 5 to 10 minutes. Increase heat to high, add stock, 2 cups water and salt and pepper to taste; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Turn heat off, cover and let stand 5 minutes.

Add basil and oregano and stir well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: Soup can be made 1 day in advance; reheat over medium-low heat before serving.

From ``You Say Tomato'' by Joanne Weir (Broadway Books).

BEEFSTEAK TOMATO-RED ONION SALAD

1 large beefsteak tomato, cored and cut into 1/4-inch slices

1 medium red onion, cut into 1/4-inch slices

1/4 cup light olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 head romaine lettuce, rinsed, dried, trimmed and halved lengthwise

1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

Preheat a grill pan over medium heat until very hot.

With a pastry brush, lightly coat tomato and red onion slices with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add to pan and cook 4 minutes on each side.

Place lettuce halves on plates. Top each with grilled sliced tomatoes and onions and sprinkle with cheese and basil. Makes 2 salad servings.

From ``Grill Pan Cookbook'' by Jamee Ruth (Chronicle Books).

TOMATO-BASIL SAUCE FOR PASTA

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

3 large garlic cloves, minced

4 ripe large tomatoes, chopped (4 cups)

2 large red bell peppers, seeded and chopped (2 1/2 cups)

2 cups sliced fresh mushrooms

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil OR 1 tablespoon dried basil leaves

2 teaspoons dried oregano leaves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup tomato paste

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add onion and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft but not browned. Stir in remaining ingredients except tomato paste. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium; cook, uncovered, 15 to 20 minutes or until sauce is thickened and peppers are tender, stirring occasionally.

Stir in tomato paste; heat thoroughly. If thicker sauce is desired, puree all or part of sauce in a blender container or food processor bowl with a metal blade.

Serve hot over cooked pasta. Makes 4 cups, 8 (1/2-cup) servings.

From Fast and Healthy, July/August 1994.

Our tomato nation

Just how popular are tomatoes, anyway?

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, each American eats an average of 19 pounds of fresh tomatoes every year.

They're also popular in the garden. Of the 35 million families who grow a garden each summer, four out of five grow tomatoes, according to the National Gardening Association. Home growers prize tomatoes not so much to save money; after all, all those seeds or plants, fertilizer, compost, mulch and water cost big bucks. But a home-grown tomato provides taste few supermarket tomatoes can rival.

Of the commercially grown U.S. tomato crop, California produces about 45 percent and Florida 55 percent.

A medium 5-ounce tomato has 35 calories and contains about 35 percent of the Recommended Daily Intake (RDI) of vitamin C and 15 percent of the RDI of vitamin A. They're also a good source of potassium and are cholesterol and sodium free. And, according to the National Cancer Institute, tomatoes also contain lycopene, an anti-oxidant, which is a powerful cancer protector.

To avoid robbing uncut tomatoes of taste and aroma, store at room temperature, not in the fridge (unless they have broken skins).

If you're peeling tomatoes and end up with lots of leftover skins, turn them into tomato dust - to add to vinaigrettes, sauces and soups. Arrange the skins in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake in a 200-degree F oven until dry about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Cool, then pulverize in a spice grinder to make a fine powder.

When cooking with tomatoes, figure that 1 large tomato will yield about 1 cup coarsely chopped tomatoes. A plum tomato will yield about 1/3 to 1/2 cup chopped tomatoes.

If you'd like to sample some of this year's tomato festivals in the state, mark your calendar.

A tomato festival at Kendall-Jackson Wine Center in Fulton (next to Santa Rosa) takes place Sept. 7, $30 thereafter. For information and reservations, call [phone].

TomatoFest at Quail Lodge in Carmel Valley is set for 12:30 to 4:30 p.m. Sept. 12; Cost $50; children 16 years and under are free. Attendees can sample 200 tomato varieties along with the tomato creations of 50 chefs. Eighteen wineries will also provide tastings. For reservations, call [phone].

Windrose Farm (a certified organic farm) in Paso Robles is having a tomato tasting 2 to 6 p.m. Sept. 19. Attendees will have an opportunity to sample about 40 tomato varieties. Southwest fare will also be served; bring your own beverages. $5 per person. For reservations and directions, call [phone].

- Natalie Haughton

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--Color) The secret of a good classic caprese salad is to use the best-possible ingredients - vine-ripened tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, sweet tender basil leaves from the garden and extra virgin olive oil.

Andy Holzman/Staff Photographer

(2) Home-grown tomatoes and fresh basil are the perfect building blocks for many creative meals.

Chicago Tribune

Box: Our tomato nation (See text)