IF YOU CAN STAND THE HEAT ... : ... FOCUS ON REMODELING THE KITCHEN WITH MULTIPURPOSE EFFICIENCY IN MIND.

Byline: Eve Glicksman New York Times Special Features

While we no longer cook dinner over logs and an open flame, kitchens are still synonymous with home. Today's multipurpose kitchen is the hub of activity in the morning and the place we catch up with each other at day's end.

Cozy, eat-in kitchens are the wave, replacing the formality of dining rooms. Today's trend is a more open design that allows the kitchen to double as a family room.

With the comeuppance of the kitchen also comes the demand for more space. A third of kitchen remodeling jobs in 1994 involved structural additions and enlargements, according to the National Kitchen and Bath Association.

Kitchens are typically the most expensive room in the house to remodel, not to mention the most messy and complicated. All within a few square feet, you have the cabinetry, appliances, counters, plumbing and electrical wiring, with countless combinations of possible errors and delays.

Still, kitchen renovations are the most popular home improvement in the United States. During 1995, more than 4 million households remodeled their kitchens.

Designers concur that homeowners are paying more attention to decorative details, from cabinet knobs, to lighting dimmers, to gooseneck faucets. Entertainment features, such as televisions and sound systems, are popping up next to toasters and microwaves.

The kitchen is also evolving as a planning center, with the addition of desks, computers and message units.

The challenge is to use all available space, say remodelers, with lots of corner treatments, built-in lazy Susans, multilevel counters, work islands and pull-out shelves.

The first question every homeowner has to ask is: How much is enough? In the world of remodeling, there is no limit, with gourmet kitchens that could run over $100,000 if your fantasies run amok.

According to an NKBA survey, the average price for a major kitchen remodeling job (one usually including cabinets, counters, flooring, fixtures, appliances, labor) came to $17,360 in 1994, with 43 percent of that cost for cabinets.

If you plan to be in your house for three years or less, it probably doesn't pay to make major renovations, say the pros. One recent survey indicated that homeowners can expect to recover only 80 percent to 90 percent of the cost of a full kitchen remodeling.

If you're thinking big, though, experts unanimously recommend hiring a good design professional who can help you avert costly mistakes and guide you through the intimidating array of choices you'll have to make about everything, including the kitchen sink.

To find a kitchen designer, word of mouth from others who have had kitchens done is a good place to start. Or call the National Kitchen & Bath Association (800-401-6522, Ext. 41) for a free directory of certified kitchen designers in your area. (Note, though, that many architects and designers who are qualified in this area do not seek this certification.)

For guidance, you might also check out the scores of books on the market about remodeling. All the major homeowner series, from Time-Life to Consumer Reports, have special editions on kitchen remodeling.

Exploring designer showrooms and browsing through magazines and catalogs can also help you define what you want.

``Start with a budget,'' stresses Jim Hayes of Kitchen Concepts, a remodeling firm in the Philadelphia area. ``You're burning up time if you start looking at granite countertops and don't have a budget for it.''

His experience is that people have a good idea of what they want but ``don't know what works.'' Certain appliances can't be placed together, for instance, which is where a design professional comes in.

Keeping up with the Joneses White is by far the hottest overall kitchen color. White-painted wood cabinets have been big sellers for the last seven years, according to Brad Moser, a dealer for Rutt Custom Cabinetry. But not ``white'' anything: white laminate cabinets - the kind with oak trim that were popular 10 years ago - are definitely ``out.''

But don't be a slave to fashion where white is concerned, adds Jeffrey Snyder, an architect with Gardner/Fox, an architecture and construction company in Bryn Mawr, Pa. An all-white kitchen is tough to keep clean, especially with kids. Try a colored counter for contrast, but not one so dark that it absorbs the light, Snyder suggests.

If you want the light look, white stain is more durable than white paint, he advises.

Ray MacNamara, a kitchen remodeler and representative of American Woodmark, says that honey oak is his biggest cabinet seller.

``It's a safe bet because it never goes out of style,'' he says, adding that the ``washed look,'' as in bleached maple, is popular too.

Built-in appliances, especially microwaves, are also becoming standard.

``Homeowners are hiding their refrigerators and other appliances behind cabinetry to get a more integrated, traditional look,'' Moser says.

Black & Decker offers a whole line of appliances - toasters, coffee makers and can openers - called ``Spacemakers,'' which attach to the underside of a cabinet.

Like everything else, kitchens are going high-tech too. Moser predicts there will be a computer monitor in every kitchen in six years! The computer as kitchen appliance will plan meals, make easy modifications for special diets, index recipes, save menus and provide computer bulletin boards on cooking subjects.

For low-tech folks, ``old cottage'' designs are in style too. Requests for stenciled cabinets, wood floors and hunter green and dusty blue cabinetry are growing.

``The Shaker look of plain, flat-paneled, painted cabinets is what's trendy, not the colonial look,'' Snyder notes.

Will it ever be done? ``The planning stage often takes longer than people expect,'' Snyder says. There are lots of decisions, which may require numerous drawings and meetings to sort through.

Once the space is planned, you'll have to choose a style: Traditional or modern? Country, art deco or Southwestern? Then, you'll have to select the design elements, solicit bids for construction and often obtain building permits.

Be forewarned that remodeling can mean weeks of washing dishes in the bathtub, ordering takeout every night or living with a refrigerator in the living room. Then there's the contractor who doesn't show up for days after removing your flooring, or the untold delays in ordering materials.

While the task may seem overwhelming, MacNamara recommends doing all desired renovations at the same time.

Gadgets put efficiency into kitchen Here are some new - and some improved - kitchen products that are geared toward today's fast-paced lifestyles:

Black & Decker's Brew'n Go Coffeemaker ($30) brews directly into a thermal 16-ounce travel mug to take on the road.

Black & Decker's Handy Steamer Plus ($50) has a divider allowing you to steam two large portions of food (say, vegetables and rice) simultaneously on a timer, with a tray to catch the drippings for accompanying sauces or gravies.

General Electric now offers the largest consumer refrigerator in the industry (30-cubic-foot capacity). This could reduce trips to the grocery store.

General Electric's new Clean Sensor Dishwasher ($600) has a computer chip and a dirt sensor that regulates the wash-cycle length. The dishwasher automatically adjusts to a longer cycle when it senses heavily soiled dishes.

Conversely, the machine conserves energy and water when dishes are slightly dirty.

The convection oven, offered by a number of manufacturers, combines heat and fan action to provide more uniform cooking at a faster speed. This means juicier meats, more even browning and the ability to bake in quantity using all three racks.

The halogen cooktop stove has a smooth, glass-ceramic cooktop surface (no burners!) that's attractive and easy to clean.

Krups' Toastronic Autolift ($95) has long, wide slots where bread can rest above the heating source. It's perfect for defrosting waffles, heating buns, toasting bagels and reheating toast.

Krups' dual-function Il Caffe Presso ($200) can prepare 10 cups of coffee and four cups of espresso (or cappuccino or latte) at the same time.

The Pampered Chef's Apple Peeler/Corer/Slicer ($27.50) can finish off a bushel for pies or applesauce in less than an hour. The timesaving device also works on potatoes, onions and beets. Call [phone] to order or request a catalog.

Black & Decker's All-in-One Deluxe Automatic Breadmaker ($165) bakes a loaf in two hours.

Black & Decker's HandyOpener cordless can opener ($34.98) simply clamps onto a can and ``walks'' around the lid. It automatically shuts off when the can is completely open.

Nonion ($8), available in houseware stores and through catalogs, removes garlic or onion odors. Simply rub this stainless steel bar on your hands under cool running water and odors will evaporate.

The Bagel Trap ($19.95) allows you to cut bagels in half, thirds and fourths without cutting yourself and with minimal effort. Available in many department stores.

Brookstone's Cork Popper ($20) opens wine bottles without tugging, twisting or shredding corks. Merely insert the needle through the cork, then pump. Available at Brookstone stores or by calling [phone].

CAPTION(S):

4 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--Cover--Color) KITCHEN FIXIN'S

Renovation s are a top priority for homeowners looking to spice up their decor

(2) Some homeowners eschew high-tech kitchens for a homey, traditional design.

(3) When remodeling, consider adding an island to increase work space. Granite countertops are popular, but are more expensive than tile.

(4) The average price for a major kitchen remodeling job is $17,360, according to 1994 figures provided by National Kitchen and Bath Association. The sky's the limit, however, with some gourmet kitchen renovations topping $100,000.

Box: Gadgets put efficiency into kitchen (See Text)