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His uncle gave him 600 pounds of salmon....

Salmon is not as expensive as truffles or the finest Strasbourg pate, but it is seldom inexpensive enough to warrant taking chances. For some people, though, fortune smiles and they have access to goodly quantities of salmon. Such a person is Mark Crain, whose uncle gave him 600 pounds of the fish-and with it a free rein to experiment.

Crain reports that simpler preparations produce the best results, then sends this recipe as an example. Drunken salmon (the term is poetic rather than literal) starts off a little like gravlax, with dill, pepper, and a bit of liquor, but it ends up as barbecued salmon with a sauce based on the marinade. Such simplicity should be encouraged.
Drunken Salmon
 4 salmon steaks, each about 1 inch
 thick (1 1/4 to 1 1/2 lb. total)
 1/2 teaspoon dry dill weed or dry
 tarragon leaves
 1 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper
 1 teaspoon salad oil
 2 tablespoons lemon juice
 1/4 cup Scotch or Bourbon
 Lemon wedges
 Salt


Rinse salmon, drain, and lay in a dish about 9 by 13 inches. Mix dill, pepper, oil, lemon juice, and Scotch; pour evenly over salmon. Cover and chill for 1 to 3 hours. Lift salmon from dish, draining. Pour marinade into a 1- to 1 1/2-quart pan. Place steaks on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium-hot coals (you can hold your hand at grill level only 3 to 4 seconds). Cook for 4 minutes. Brush salmon with marinade, turn with a wide spatula, and brush again. Continue to cook until salmon is opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), about 6 minutes longer. When you turn salmon, set pan with marinade on grill beside fish. Transfer salmon to a platter. Pour hot marinade over fish. Accompany with lemon wedges and salt to add to taste. Serves 4.

Per serving: 232 cal.; 28 g protein; 10 g fa t

(1.5 g sat); 0. 9 g carbo.; 65 mg sodium; 78

Mark Kemp knows about the calories, fats, and sugars that most of us consume, but his attitude toward dessert is sensible: when he indulges, he will yield only to major temptation. His chocolate cheesecake is certainly that, combining the delights of butter cookies, cheesecake, and chocolate. There is no skimping on calories here. (Well, neufchatel cheese is a bit lower in calories than cream cheese, but you wouldn't know by its taste.)
Chocolate Cheesecake
 1 package (about 7 1/4 oz.) butter
 cookies
 1/4 cup (1/8 lb.) butter or margarine,
 melted
 2 cups (12-oz. package) semisweet
 chocolate baking chips
 2/3 cup sugar
 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
 2 large packages (8 oz. each)
 neufchatel (light cream) cheese
 2 large eggs
 1 tablespoon vanilla
 1 tablespoon sweet marsala or sweet
 sherry


In a food processor or blender, whirl cookies to make fine crumbs. Pour into a 9inch cheesecake pan with removable rim. Add butter, mix well, then press crumbs evenly over pan bottom and about I inch up pan sides; set aside.

In a food processor or blender, whirl 1/2 the chocolate chips. In processor or a mixer bowl, combine ground chocolate, sugar, and flour; whirl or stir to mix. Add cheese cut into chunks, then eggs, vanilla, and marsala. Whirl or beat until well mixed. Scatter 1/2 the remaining chocolate into crust, then pour cheesecake batter into pan; spread batter level. Sprinkle remaining chocolate over batter.

Bake in a 300' oven until cake jiggles only slightly in the center when gently shaken, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Let cool; then cover and chill until cold, at least 4 hours or up to 2 days. Makes about 16 servings. Per serving: 318cal.; 6g protein; 18g fat(7.2g sat); 33 g carbo.; 205 mg sodium; 66 mg chol.

Eugene, Ore.

Respect for vegetables is one mark of a good cook, and Floyd Paige is a fast learner. In just four months of married life, he's leaned away from meat and potatoes toward a more creative approach to what appears on the dinner plate. He devised this green bean, almond, bacon, and cheese combination to impress his bride.
Floyd's Zesty Green Beans
 1/2 cup sliced almonds
 4 slices bacon
 1 small onion, chopped
 1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
 1 teaspoon lemon juice
 1/4 teaspoon chili powder
 1 pound green beans, ends removed
 1/4 cup each water and dry white wine
 1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar
 cheese
 Salt


In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, stir almonds until lightly toasted, about 4 minutes; pour from pan and set aside.

In the pan, cook bacon over medium heat until evenly browned. Lift out bacon and drain on towels. When cool, crumble. Discard all but 2 teaspoons drippings from pan. Add onion, garlic, lemon juice, and chili powder; stir often over medium heat until onion is limp, 7 to 10 minutes. As onion cooks, rinse beans and cut into 2-inch lengths. When onion is limp, add beans, water, and wine to pan. Cover and cook until beans are just tender to bite, 9 minutes. Mix bacon and almonds with beans, then sprinkle with cheese. Cover and heat just until cheese begins to melt, about 1 minute. Pour into a bowl. Season to taste with sait. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Per serving: 134 cal.; 6 g protein; 9.2 g fat 3.3 g sat.); 6.8 g carbo.; 140 mg sodium; 15 mg chol.

Petaluma, Calif.

In New York City's happier days, lodges, political organizations, and neighborhood associations celebrated togetherness (and raised funds) through a type of banquet known simply as a "beefsteak." Tables were planks stretched on trestles, tablecloths were newspapers, and the meal consisted of beefsteak and sliced tomatoes. But what beefsteak! Whole beef tenderloins in staggering numbers were cooked rare and sliced at the table. Diners ate until they could hold no more. Jerry Robbins has his own beefsteak parties in Flagstaff, Arizona. He treats the tenderloin to a long bath in an elaborate citrus marinade, which later, after reduction, becomes a sauce.
 Arizona Beef a I'Orange
 1/4 teaspoon pepper
 1/2 teaspoon dry thyme leaves
 1 teaspoon grated orange peel
 2 tablespoons olive oil
 1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
 1/4 cup sugar
 1/4 cup honey
 1/2 cup lime juice
 1/2 cup dry red wine
 1 cup orange juice
 1 cup balsamic vinegar
 1 beef tenderloin (4 to 5 lb.),
 fat trimmed


In a bowl, mix together pepper, thyme, orange peel, oil, garlic, sugar, honey, lime juice, wine, orange juice, and vinegar. Put beef in a pan about 9 by 13 inches; pour liquid mixture over meat. Roll to coat well, pricking all over with a cooking fork as you turn the meat. Cover and chill about 24 hours; rotate meat 3 or 4 times. Lift out meat, draining liquid; save marinade. Set beef on a rack in a 10- by 15inch pan. Pour liquid into a 10- to 12-inch frying pan. Boil on high heat until reduced to about 1 cup, about 25 minutes. Meanwhile, fold thin end of roast under to make evenly thick; tie string securely around meat every 2 to 3 inches. Roast in a 425' oven until a meat thermometer inserted in thickest part registers 125 deg for very rare, about 40 minutes; or 135 deg to 140 deg for rare, 45 to 60 minutes. Baste several times with marinade.

Let roast stand for 10 minutes, then cut across the grain on a slight diagonal into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Offer remaining marinade to add to taste. Serves 12 to 14.

Per serving:385 cal.;23g protein;25gfat(9.7g sat.); 15 g carbo.; 56 mg sodium; 81 mg chol. Flagstaff, Ariz.
COPYRIGHT 1991 Sunset Publishing Corp.
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1991 Gale, Cengage Learning. All rights reserved.

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Title Annotation:Chefs of the West; includes recipes
Publication:Sunset
Date:Jul 1, 1991
Words:1308
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