Here's help to slow the effects of aging. (Gleams & Notions).

UNILACTIM L-17 is an interesting material manufactured by Induchem and distributed by Lipo Chemical. This aqueous mixture contains approximately 10-25% butylene glycol, 1-5% hydrolyzed milk protein, 1-5% niacinamide and 1-5% adenosine triphosphate (ATP) to create an active ingredient content of 35-40%. No preservatives or antioxidants are present. This yellow-brown liquid with a slight odor has a pH of 6.5-7.5 and a minimum storage life of 12 months at ambient temperatures.

The product is labeled as an "interactive ingredient system for dermal revitalization by stimulation of natural metabolism using activated amino acids and biological precursors." In other words, it stimulates and supports the skin's own regenerative processes using biological precursors and activators to counter the effects of skin aging.

It is also claimed that the natural resistance of the skin is enhanced and the effects of adverse environmental factors are supressed by Unilactim L-17.

Amino Acid Facts

An amino acid is an amphoteric organic acid containing both a basic amino group (N[H.sub.2]) and an acidic carboxyl group (COOH). They exist as dipolar ions in aqueous solutions. Amino acids have been created in the laboratory by passing an electric discharge through a mixture of ammonia, methane and water vapor. It is believed that a similar reaction may have accounted for the original synthesis of amino acids on earth. Amino acids can be obtained by hydrolysis of a protein, or they can be synthesized in various ways (especially by the fermentation of glucose). An essential amino acid is one that cannot be synthesized by the body and is necessary for survival. The essential amino acids are isoleucine, phenylalanine, lysine, methionine, threonine, tryptophan, valine, arginine and histidine. The latter two are essential during periods of intense growth.

The Role of ATP

Fibrous proteins such as collagen and clastin and glycoproteins such as fibronectin are formed in the fibroblasts of the dermis. This synthesis can only take place if the necessary biological precursors (the amino acids) are present. The formation of the amino acid chains in making proteins occurs by peptide bonding where a carboxyl group of one amino acid links up with an amino group of another amino acid. In order for this reaction to occur, ATP (adenosine triphosphate) is necessary to activate the carboxyl group of the amino acid. In this process, one molecule of amino acid and one molecule of ATP form an amino acyl adenylate (an activated form of the amino acid or AAA).

Unilactamin L-17 contains all the essential amino acids in concentrated form obtained from a fraction of whey protein-enriched lactoprotein hydrolysate. Adding ATP activates the amino acids.

B3 Stimulates Micro Circulation

Nicotinamide (or niacinamide) is also called vitamin B3. It is found in milk, meat, fish, whole grains and yeast. It stimulates micro circulation in the dermis to support the metabolic processes in the skin. Nicotinamde and ATP together serve as precursors for the coenzyme nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD helps transfer hydrogen during an enzymatic process in living cells. It is active in oxidation reactions of the skin and is involved in the regeneration of biological antioxidant systems. Unilactamin-17 contains extra nicotinamide.

Recommended use levels for this water-soluble material range from 2.5-5%. It is said that a skin care product with 5% Unilactamin will contain whey protein components in the same concentrations as those found in pure milk. Some formulation caveats:

* A UV absorber should be used in products to be sold in clear containers to prevent a slight discoloration and

* Additions to the formula should only be done below 70[degrees]C.

HARVEY FISHMAN HAS A CONSULTING FIRM AT 34 CHICASAW DRIVE, OAKLAND, NJ 07436, [e-mail], SPECIALIZING IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS AND NEW PRODUCT IDEAS, OFFERING TESTED FINISHED PRODUCTS. HE HAS MORE THAN 30 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE AND HAS BEEN DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH AT BONAT, NESTLE LEMUR AND TURNER HALL. HE WELCOMES DESCRIPTIVE LITERATURE FROM SUPPLIERS AND BENCH CHEMISTS AND OTHERS IN THE FIELD.