Hard work, pride produced great game dinner.

Byline: Mary Anne Magiera

COLUMN: OUTDOORS

Nursing a vintage refrigerator through Friday night was not exactly what Bob Koch had planned to do on his 47th birthday.

However, he did what any head chef would do to ensure the success of the most anticipated meal in Central Massachusetts - he slept in his vehicle next to the appliance that had been converted into a smoker to make sure the propane tank connection would not freeze up again as it had earlier. The antique held several racks of neatly arranged pheasant breasts, goose breasts, salmon filets, and whole salmon and pike, all on the menu of the Rutland Sportsman's Club's annual game dinner.

Saturday's dinner also marked the beginning of the club's 75th anniversary celebration. Annually serving about 200 people from throughout the area and beyond, the Rutland event has earned a "best-in-the-area" reputation over several decades. Koch has planned and orchestrated the event for 18 years, inheriting several special, one-of-a-kind, game recipes from the club's senior members.

Dinner guests were expected within 24 hours of when I arrived at the club on Friday afternoon but no one seemed anxious. I recognized the faces and baseball caps of some of the chefs; they have fished the same waters I have. They seemed as comfortable in the kitchen as they were on the water. I got the sense that they were having fun, although it was hard for me to see the joy in, for example, filleting about 600 perch, and that was after they had been caught and cleaned.

"Our reputation starts with all the guys in there (kitchen) cooking," a self-effacing Koch said. "We've been able to get things down to where it takes us a week - it used to take us two weeks - to get ready."

Most of those who prepared the dinner have been doing so for decades, and each has his own specialty. Koch, for example did the sil - pickled pickerel - the smoked salmon cheese roll with walnuts and the venison meatloaf. Leo Cote added the secret seasonings to a Bisquick-based mix that coated the perch tenders, while Rick Brown, Paul Menard and Lenny Lantiegne, among others, were responsible for other selections.

"It's fun to do. You're with your friends here and it's for a good cause," offered Ron Damstrom who has been involved with the dinner for 35 years. The proceeds from the supper are used to run the club.

Game suppers are a longtime tradition for sporting clubs throughout the area; some are open to the public, others are exclusively for members. They are events that bring the membership and others together to share the bounty of the groups' hunters and fishers; they are a way to celebrate and introduce young members to club traditions. Most of the fish and game is harvested by club members; some is donated or secured from other area clubs by trading, depending on what game is needed to fill out the menu.

For example, the beaver was donated by an area trapper and the moose was acquired through the Rutland Police Department after it was killed in an accident with a motor vehicle. In years past, the club has had mountain lion, caribou, bear, alligator and wild boar on the menu.

"A few weekends ago, six of us went ice fishing and caught more than 300 fish; all of it is being served at the dinner," Damstrom said. "We went through 36 dozen shiners." It took days and days of ice fishing by members to fill out the menu.

Guests were working on the appetizers when I arrived about 5 p.m. on Saturday. The presentations by Al Glogckner were as impressive as the choices. For example, the smoked pike were presented whole, two on each platter, surrounded by a garnish of purple-edged white ornamental kale and bunches of red and green grapes. Viewed from above the table, the fish were impeccably rendered by the smoker - as if they were swimming. Placards identified each offering: sil; smoked pike, goose and salmon; popcorn pheasant; and salmon and pheasant cheese rolls.

Fifteen-year-old Chad Chadborne was among the first to line up for seconds.

"The food is very good," said the Phillipston resident who said he eagerly gave up a Saturday night to come to the event with his father.

Neil Blodgett has been coming to the dinner for about eight years - with 55 of his friends. The group, that hails from several different towns, filled three tables, appropriately covered with red-checkered cloths.

"I really like this club. They put on an excellent meal and they don't pack everybody in. It's a good time," Blodgett said. The West Brookfield resident and friends played dice games between courses.

"Just about everything is good, but I never like to fill up with the hors d'oeuvres because then you don't have room for the main meal," Blodgett offered. "I have yet to have anyone complain about anything, that's why I easily sell tickets. It's well worth the price ($25 each)."

Blodgett's wife, Monica, was patiently waiting for a chance at the venison meatloaf, one of the 10 main courses. She wasn't alone. The meatloaf is a menu favorite: the venison is rolled with ham and a mix of Mexican cheeses. It is presented round - resembling hearty country bread - and topped with wide strips of bacon. Each meatloaf weighs 15-18 pounds; six of them were served.

Shortly after 6 p.m., the cadre of servers again stood behind the buffet table. The remains of the venison stew and fish chowder second course were taken away and the main courses were set out: hare pie, moose roast, moose chili, perch tenders, venison meatloaf, barbecue beaver, teriyaki pheasant, bison jalapeno poppers, pheasant macaroni salad, and venison and moose heart & liver.

The hunt for next year's menu begins today.