Haberdasher's closet: actor Nick Cannon demonstrates the makings of an attractive wardrobe.

Traditional business attire doesn't have to restrict a man's personal style. How you coordinate your clothing reveals a lot about your individuality. In a sea of blue and gray suits, a great way to enhance your wardrobe is with color.

"It's about building a look and knowing how to work with color, patterns, and texture," says haberdashery specialist Anthony T. Kirby, who started his own accessories collection, Anthony T., in 1992. For Kirby, experimenting is essential. He suggests playing with different looks and fabric. "The days of the clones are gone. There was a time in the work world when men wore a navy suit, a white shirt, and a navy tie. That look is gone. It's all about individual style."

While there's no single set of style rules that works for everyone, Kirby believes: "A man should be confident in what he has on. Your clothing represents you."

1 Suits The suit is the foundation of any man's wardrobe. Kirby suggests outfitting your closet with the basics--a navy, charcoal or medium gray suit; a pinstripe in gray or navy; a classic Glen plaid; and a dark brown pinstripe, nailhead. or houndstooth. Another essential, says Kirby, is a black suit, traditionally reserved for formal occasions. "This is how you build a foundation." Kirby stresses. "You have to nave these key components. Maybe have one double-breasted suit, and you should always have a classic navy blue blazer."

The most important aspect of suit selection is the fit. Full-cut suits are ideal for a heavier man; a modern slim-fit suit works well for a tall or slim man. Suits should fit properly in the shoulders and chest and sleeve length should be correct.

Suit fabric is equally important. Kirby suggests having a variety of suits that can be worn nine months out of the year. This means selecting mid-weight wool and other transseasonal fabrics. Add a winter and summer suit, and your collection is complete.

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2 Shoes Two pairs of classic leather lace-ups in black and brown are vital to a business wardrobe. Kirby suggests including a brown suede shoe, which can add richness to any ensemble. Colors such as luggage tan and cognac will also enhance and complement your wardrobe. "Footwear should be well-defined and understated," says Kirby, who strongly advises against shoes in bright color leathers or skins.

Q.James Bespoke three-button suit (fabric by Loro Piana, super 120s) and French-cuff shirt (Sea Island cotton); Anthony T. tie; Robert Talbott Collection pocket square; Harlan Brandon shoes

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3 Shirts A classic white or blue shirt with button or French cuffs is a great staple, and a shirt is the first place you can experiment with color. You can extend your wardrobe with shirts in an array of fits, patterns, and colors that complement your suits.

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4 Pocket Squares Pocket squares are classic, fun, and full of style, and "they're for showing, not blowing," says Kirby. They can add a delicate or dramatic accent and can be especially elegant complementing a subdued shirt. A classic white-linen hand-rolled pocket square is a must-have. Pocket squares and ties should not match. Contrast them by matching patterns with solids.

Ties. Anthony T.; Pocket squares and cuff link's, Robert Talbott Collection

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5 Ties Ties present a great opportunity for men to express their Personality, says Kirby. He suggests acquiring a minimum of two dozen, which add variety and flair to otherwise plain attire. Because each tie can produce a different look, owning several gives the illusion of possessing a vast wardrobe. According to Kirby, stripes, dots, and solid satins give a man a classic look. Patterns bring vibrancy to an outfit. Caring for your ties is imperative. To maintain longevity, do not remove a tie by pulling or yanking it off. Untie it in the same manner used to tie it, which will prevent stretching and tearing at the seams. Never hang ties; roll them after wearing to help maintain shape.

Color Accents Accessories make all the difference in enhancing your look. Cuff links, ties, and pocket squares offer great opportunities to stand out.

Q. James Bespoke two-button suit (Loro Piana. super 110): shirt. I ... Like No Other at Gary Williams Showroom: Harlan Brandon shoes: Robert Talbott Collection pocket square

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Anthony T.

Putting It All Together

His look: Anthony T. Kirby custom handmade suit, authentic 7-fold tie, and pocket square; Ralph Lauren Purple Label shirt and brown suede gillie shoes. For more information, visit www.anthonytnewyork.com.

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