HOT SPOTS : SUSHI SATISFACTION.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Yamakawa, 10118 Riverside Drive, Toluca Lake, [phone]. You won't find better, fresher, sculptured sushi anywhere. And the kitchen's superb gyozas, yellowtail collar, succulent lobster, black cod and occasional fresh unshelled sweet scallops help keep seats here occupied constantly.

Star meccas

Spago, 1114 Horne, West Hollywood, [phone]. Also in Tokyo, Mexico City, Las Vegas and Chicago and now in Beverly Hills at 176 N. Canon Drive, [phone]. Wolfgang Puck's original starship, replete with a compelling Barbara Lazaroff-designed rear dining room, now has a posher sibling across town that beguiles lunchers, patio diners and even serves up some homey Austrian ``Puckfare.'' Both continue to sail merrily along as nationally acclaimed nosheries and rendezvous of the famous. Where else would you find a fresh white truffle (in season) pizza?

Broadway smash

Broadway Deli, 1457 Third St., Santa Monica, [phone]. It's a hit Broadway melody on the Third Street Promenade parade at the beach composed by culinarians Michel Richard, Bruce Marder and Marvin Zeidler. And take note, this is not an everyday deli, folks. Like, they use shiitake mushrooms in the mushroom barley soup.

Soul of Zorba

Great Greek, 13362 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, [phone]. Here's a zappy, let-your-hair-down-and-have-fun type, recently remodeled restaurant where Zorba-inspired waiters lead the dancing, stopping occasionally to bring bountiful trays of well above average Greek fare to your table. Opa!

It's Melrose modern

Melrose Place, 650 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, [phone]. Named after the street and before the television series, it has mod food, mod surroundings and a mod clientele. And the tabs lean toward moderate, too.

Raw and frenetic

Teru Sushi, 11940 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, [phone]. This is the original hyperactive sushi bar that began the craze for raw fish locally. It's the long-running hit theatrical food phenomenon on Ventura Boulevard. It's a scream all right. With a Japanese accent, of course.