HOT SPOTS : SELVAGGIO IN VALLEY.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Posto, 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, [phone]. Piero Selvaggio, nationally recognized padrone of Valentino in Santa Monica and Primi in West L.A. has brought extra touches of class here to vault into the primo position of major-league Valley Italians.

Jaws in tortilla

Sharky's, 13238 Burbank Blvd., Sherman Oaks, [phone]. (Also in Northridge and Tarzana.) Fresh and fast, here's tasty shark, mahi mahi, shrimp. chicken and steak stuffed in burritos, tacos, tostadas and quesadillas. Ole. Ole.

Stove superstar

Patina, 5955 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, [phone]. Chef-owner Joachim Splichal may be small in stature, but he's riding tall in L.A.'s - and some say the nation's - culinary saddle right now. Meanwhile, with Pinot Bistro and Cafe Pinot in the fold and Patina remaining at the top of his stable, it looks like he's scored additional hits with his new Pinot Hollywood and even newer Pinot Blanc in Napa. And if that's not enough, he recently opened Pinot at the Chronicle in Pasadena.

Piano bar 

Tam O'Shanter, 2980 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Angeles, [phone]. As many as five different piano-bar entertainers perform here per week during the cocktail and dinner hours. Piano-bar addicts love this 74-year-old restaurant.

Calling all swingers

Dresden Room, 1760 N. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, [phone]. Celebs like Nicolas Cage, Michelle Pfeiffer and Julia Roberts have exercised their tonsils here. You can too, especially during open-mike night Tuesdays.

Sky's the limit

L'Orangerie, 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, [phone]. This is deep-pockets, haute cuisine of the so very, very French type, you may forget you're on U.S. soil. Every ingredient is premium, often flown over from La Belle France within the past 24 hours. Bon appetit.