HOT SPOTS : PRIME TIME.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Monty's Steak House, 5371 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, [phone]. You'll find traditional and contemporary Americana here, from old-fashioned, thick, prime steaks to everybody's favorite, Chinese chicken salad. The wine list is a labor of love. And great jazz in the lounge is a bonus.

Cuban pollo player

Versailles, 17410 Ventura Blvd., Encino, [phone]. (Also in Culver City, Los Angeles and Manhattan Beach.) Homey Cuban foodspot with plenty of zest and minimum tabs is riding wave of popularity. One of four hits for this extra-garlicky chicken coup.

Out of storage

Cinnabar, 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, [phone]. Remember Cafe Jacoulet in Pasadena? It's gone. But its host-owner has done wonders with an ex-Bekins building where the kitchen produces creative Pacific Rim-accented dinner delights.

Out on a limb

Woodside, 11604 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310-571-3800. Skillful chef Louise Branch paved the way, then left. But the kitchen continues to perform well, crafting handsome plates of hearty, contemporary American fare delivered hot to impressed patrons in an exceptionally well-run dining room.

Splichal in gulch

Pinot Hollywood, 1448 N. Gower St., Hollywood, [phone]. In the sprawling ex-Columbia Bar & Grill space in Gower Gulch, the Joachim team may be doing its best performance to date from a quality/value standpoint. From pan-fried sweetbreads to red bell pepper risotto and nifty side dishes for a pittance, the fare is always interesting, always satisfying. And the martini bar provides a comfy hangout.

Piano bar

Paoli's Pizzeria, 21020 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills, [phone]. This neighborhood sing-along hangout offers nightly entertainers, even a special piano performer for the early dinner crowd. Fare is robust, homey Italian with a signature super-rich, creamy, alfredo sauce-topped pizza.