HOT SPOTS : LOW CORKAGE, HIGH BOOKINGS.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Cafe Bizou, 14016 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, [phone]. By charging $2 corkage and moderate entree prices for outstanding plates of French-accented food, the ex-Shain's building is packed daily and nightly with wine and food lovers from all over town who bring their cellar's finest.

Chain champ

Maria's Italian Kitchen, 13353 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, [phone]. (Also in Encino, Calabasas and Northridge.) Valley's triumphant Italian mini-chain. Your nose will tell you immediately on entering that this is the right place to eat.

Cuban pollo player

Versailles, 17410 Ventura Blvd., Encino, [phone]. (Also in Culver City and Los Angeles.) New homey Cuban foodspot with plenty of zest and minimum tabs is riding wave of popularity. It's hit No. 3 for this extra-garlicky chicken coup.

Ribbing the world

Lawry's the Prime Rib, 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, [phone]. Chomping the ultimate slab of juicy beef in this nearly always crowded, palatial, warm setting, is an L.A. tradition. And now there is a fish option and - sacre bleu - even an occasional lobster.

Sky's the limit

L'Orangerie, 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, [phone]. This is deep pockets, haute cuisine of the so very, very French type, you may forget you're on U.S. soil. Every ingredient is premium, often flown over from La Belle France within the past 24 hours. Bon appetit.

Piano bar

Dresden Room, 1760 N. Vermont Ave., Los Angeles, [phone]. Celebs like Nicolas Cage, Michelle Pfeiffer and Julia Roberts have exercised their tonsils here. You can too, especially during open mike night Tuesdays.

No myth steak

Arnie Morton's, 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, [phone]. Aged three weeks, thick, prime and juicy, the steaks here as good as you're going to get in L.A.