HOT SPOTS : DOWN AND UNDER IN NORTHRIDGE.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Outback Steakhouse, 18711 Devonshire St., Northridge, [phone]. Big-draw, local outlet of reasonably priced, fast-growing national chain of Aussie-themed, casual meat and brew emporiums obviously not worried about producing high sodium or cholesterol-packed fare as long as it tastes good. Which, most of the time, it does.

Pasadena hangout

Mi Piace, 25 Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, [phone]. Also in Burbank. Constantly packed, this inexpensive Italian, trattoria-style eatery perpetuates its pasta power over parsimonious Pasadenans and budget-minded Burbankers.

Marina magic

Cafe del Rey, 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, [phone]. This waterside rendezvous of nonsmoking frou-frou food fanciers finds health-conscious types munching on colorful strands of gravlax and cucumber or nibbling crab cakes nestled in pink grapefruit sauce. It's hip. It's hot.

Seafood spectacular

Water Grill, 544 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles, [phone]. The definitive oceanfare destination when downtown, this clubby rendezvous is often picked as the No. 1 for fish in L.A.

Italian delight

Toto, 5658 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Van Nuys, [phone]. It's a sleek, modern, mini-cafe and pizzeria, recently enlarged, that serves crispy pizzas, perfect pastas, goodies with mussels and clams, all with a very strong, authentic Italian accent, and all at low prices. And yes, it really does deliver its pizzas by limo.

Splendor under glass

Bistro Garden at Coldwater, 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, [phone]. The main dining room's magnificent skylit ceiling and fancy setting draws the cognoscenti from the hills and dales of the Valley. A turn to French-accented fare is an appealing improvement.