HOT SPOTS : BISTRO CHARMER.

Byline: Larry Lipson

California Canteen, 3311 Cahuenga Blvd. W., near Universal City, [phone]. Located west of Barham and east of Lankershim, and looking like it was plucked out of an old European city, it's considered a Valley spot by East Valleyites, though technically in Hollywood. And it's a grazer's paradise, with an array of relatively inexpensive pastas and snack dishes. Plenty of garlic used here.

Hong Kong Puck

Chinois on Main, 2709 Main St., Santa Monica, [phone]. The ultimate L.A. restaurant is a talented, Austrian-born, French-trained chef's idea of Chinese food with a California accent. Savor the fare and the decor - they both offer superb sizzle.

Catch of the week

Oyster House, 12446 Moorpark St., Studio City, [phone]. Here's a lengthy bar (54 feet) to belly up to and a parallel narrow lounge where food, especially seafood, is important. Yes, there are oysters here, also pasta and shellfish combos, bouillabaisse, calamari, fresh fish, even frog legs.

Drago flies

Drago, 2628 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, [phone]. Chef Celestino Drago has one-upped the rest of the town's pasta royalty with his sensational cucina Siciliana, but don't despair. All your favorite Italian dishes are also available.

Drai hauls 'em in

Drai's, 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, [phone]. Movie producer-turned restaurateur Victor Drai snagged chef Claude Segal for his casual bistro on the former L'Ermitage site and the result is Drai-matic dining for the show-biz crowd.

Room with a view

Yamashiro, 1999 N. Sycamore Ave. Hollywood, [phone]. Locals and tourists view the movie capital from this romantic Japanese ``mountain palace'' restaurant built by two wealthy antique dealers as a private residence in the 20s. The spectacular view usually receives more accolades than the Japanese and continental fare.