HOT SPOTS : ABOVE AND BEYOND.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Saddle Peak Lodge, 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, [phone]. Escape to a hunting lodge for such rarities as grenadine of buffalo, pheasant under glass or black boar chops. It's Americana in the Malibu mountains.

'50s funspot

Ed Debevic's, 134 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, [phone]. It's a trip and a half for nostalgia buffs who enjoy diner food and staffers who want to be stars.

Westlake catch

Fins Seafood Grill, 982 Westlake Blvd., Westlake, [phone]. (Also in Calabasas as Fins Creekside.) Surprise of surprises, a suburban seafoodery that doesn't overcook its finny fare. Best poached salmon west of Scotland. And the macadamia nut-crusted halibut is awesome.

Chain champ

Cheesecake Factory, 6324 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, [phone]. (Also in Brentwood, Beverly Hills, Redondo Beach, Pasadena, Marina del Rey and elsewhere.) Congrats due on an ambitious and rather exotic menu that's surprisingly workable. And the cheesecakes aren't bad as a bonus.

For starry eyes

Planet Hollywood, 9560 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, [phone]. (Also in South Coast Plaza Village, 1641 W. Sunflower Ave, Santa Ana, 714-434-7827.) With Schwarzenegger-Willis-Stallone moola involved, this glitzy movie-themed eatery has fans lined up to see the Arnie, Brucie and Sly memorabilia and other film props and costumery. Oh yeah, the fare is better than you'd expect.

Sky's the limit

L'Orangerie, 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, [phone]. This is deep pockets, haute cuisine of the so very, very French type, you may forget you're on U.S. soil. Every ingredient is premium, often flown over from La Belle France within the past 24 hours. Bon appetit.