HOT SOTS : WHERE THERE'S SMOKE, THERE'S WOOD.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Wood Ranch BBQ & Grill, 5050 Cornell Road, Agoura Hills, [phone]. (Also 540 New Los Angeles Ave., Moorpark, [phone].) It's a true beef mecca at moderate tariff where the tri-tip's a trip, the porterhouse and prime rib are pretty and pink and a pound in weight, and the crispy string onions are a blast. Lots of food. Lots of taste. And lots of customers.

Piano bar 

Tam O'Shanter, 2980 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Angeles, [phone]. As many as five different piano bar entertainers perform here per week during the cocktail and dinner hours. Piano bar addicts love this 75-year-old restaurant.

Stove superstar

Patina, 5955 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, [phone]. Chef-owner Joachim Splichal may be small in stature, but he's riding tall in L.A.'s - and some say the nation's - culinary saddle right now. Meanwhile, with Pinot Bistro and Cafe Pinot in the fold and Patina remaining at the top of his stable, it looks like he's scored additional hits with his new Pinot Hollywood and even newer Pinot Blanc in Napa. And if that's not enough, he recently opened Pinot at the Chronicle in Pasadena.

Selvaggio in Valley

Posto, 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, [phone]. Piero Selvaggio, nationally recognized padrone of Valentino in Santa Monica and Primi in West L.A., has brought extra touches of class here to vault into the primo position of major league Valley Italians.

Sky's the limit

L'Orangerie, 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, [phone]. This is deep-pockets, haute cuisine of the so very, very French type, you may forget you're on U.S. soil. Every ingredient is premium, often flown over from La Belle France within the past 24 hours. Bon appetit.

Queen of Main

Jake & Annie's, 1700 Main St., Santa Monica, [phone]. Talented Irish chef Geri Gilliland has created an American regional menu that is the hit of Main Street, where she now reigns with a trio of diverse dineries.