HONG KONG BAZAAR : IT'S STILL SHOP 'TIL YOU DROP IN COLONY ON BRINK OF COMMUNISM.

Byline: Deborah Adamson Daily News Staff Writer

The more things change, it seems, the more things stay the same.

Going back to Hong Kong after a 15-year hiatus rekindled some fond memories of the British colony - walking through Oriental gardens, watching frolicking dolphins at Ocean Park and ending the day with a tasty plate of roast duck.

Visiting this year was important: My husband and I wanted to go before Hong Kong rejoins the People's Republic of China, a change set for July 1.

Hong Kong officials expect more people to visit its shores this year to witness the hand-over to China. The usual crowd of 10 million visitors should swell by quite a bit, based on a 12 percent increase in the January 1997 count of tourists compared with the year before.

We didn't know what to expect from a country soon to be reunited with its communist mother after 99 years of democracy. But the people's attitude, as far as we could tell, is one of acceptance and cautious optimism. In the words of one tour operator, ``We are still a free country.''

The Hong Kong Tourist Association echoes the sentiment.

``We will continue to enjoy a high degree of autonomy,'' said Mary Bakht, the group's spokeswoman.

``There will be absolutely no changes'' for the tourist, she said. ``You're still going to be able to shop with your Hong Kong dollars. English is still going to be an official language, and visa status for American citizens is still going to be the same.''

Aside from the noticeably fewer Rolls-Royces dotting the cities as the wealthy departed for Western countries, the essence of Hong Kong remained the same as I remembered - a country of contradictions, a balance of old and new.

The country's ancient past and high-tech present live together in synergy: Between towering glass and steel buildings are alleys full of vendors selling goods from wooden stalls. The seedy mingles with the sleekly modern, but it is a contrast not out of place there. A trademark of the colony is its liveliness: Like an aquarium full of fish, a sea of people are constantly on the move, jostling for space in this small colony.

Whatever its future, Hong Kong certainly has come a long way since 1841, when Lord Palmerston called it a ``barren rock'' and planted the British flag.

Today, Hong Kong is a major financial center in Asia. It is divided into three main areas: Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and the New Territories.

We stayed in the urban areas of Kowloon and Hong Kong Island, although one could take trips to Aberdeen to eat at its floating restaurants or visit the New Territories, which make up 235 outlying islands. Day trips to China also are available from various tour operators.

The culturally inclined could consider the Chinese Opera for a truly exotic experience. Or, there's the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware in Hong Kong Park that showcases designs from various Chinese dynasties. The museum's building is the oldest surviving colonial edifice in Hong Kong. To see the largest collection of bronzeware from the Yuan Dynasty in the world, visit the University Museum and Art Gallery.

For a taste of ancient China, head for the Sung Dynasty Village in Kowloon. People in the village dress in period costume, performing in acrobatic and kung fu shows.

With only four days in the colony, we decided to spend the time shopping and dining - two hallmarks of Hong Kong.

Central district: Jewelry, electronics, designer clothes and other goods dangle in windows like fish bait designed to reel you in - hook, line and sinker. This, the business district of the colony, is the spot for designer stores such as Versace.

Less expensive goods can be found nearby on Li Yuen streets, West and East, where vendors ply their trade in makeshift stalls.

Causeway Bay: On Yee Wo Street in Causeway Bay, mom-and-pop boutiques sell goods of all kinds. At night, it turns into a brightly lit nexus of shops jammed with crowds like New York's Times Square.

You'll find small stores with bins of sale items in the shadow of huge department stores such as Matsuzakaya, Daimaru, Sogo and Lane Crawford.

If you want ethnic goods, the CRC department store is one-of-a-kind, a multilevel storehouse of all things Chinese - fans, silk dresses, sandalwood jewelry boxes, hand-painted miniature eggs and other cornucopia. There's nary a Western product in there. Even the perfume is Chinese-made.

Once you tire of department stores, step into the Jardine's Crescent and Jardine's Bazaar alleys off Yee Wo Street and Kai Chiu Road. Here, you'll find women's clothes, watches, pillowcases and even Battenburg-like lace bed spreads at bargain prices.

Temple Street: After dark, the Temple Street Night Market in the Yau Ma Tei area is a hive of activity. Close to Jordan Road in the south and Man Ming Lane in the north, the street is crammed with vendors. The difference between this and other alleys - say, Jardine's Crescent - is that it mainly sells men's clothes, accessories and assorted sundries. Women's clothing is noticeably absent. No wonder: Farther north is the Ladies Market on Tung Choi Street.

Bird Market: Not too far away is the Bird Market on Hong Lok Street. Lining the alley are ornately designed wood or bamboo cages full of song birds and parrots dipping into ceramic bowls for food and water. It's a nice place for photos, but not much else, unless you're a bird aficionado.

Jade Market: If you have time, stop at the Jade Market. It is amazing to see rows and rows of tables full of the green stone. It offers much better bargains - a fake jade fish piece cost $2 in U.S. currency at the market, $20 at a tourist gift shop.

Dining: In Hong Kong, there are more than a dozen cuisines ranging from Cantonese and other regional Chinese food to Indian and French. You can dine humbly at a street corner eatery or feast at renowned restaurants. For the homesick, McDonald's, KFC and Wendy's won't be hard to find.

Don't leave the country without trying dim sum. It's a Chinese brunch that servers bring to your table on carts. Dishes, which usually come in little bamboo steamers, range from steamed pork and shrimp dumplings to beef wrapped in rice noodles, doused with a sweet soy-sauce mixture.

Victoria Peak: On our last day in Hong Kong, we went to Victoria Peak, the most prestigious residential address in the country. Thousands of feet above sea level, the peak ferries tourists up a mountain by tram. At the top, where the air was cool and clean, there was a breathtaking view of the Hong Kong skyline. Roads snaking around the mountain beckoned walkers, joggers and hikers.

Near the top, a tourist area with trendy restaurants and shops called the Peak Galleria reminded me of Universal CityWalk. It even had a fountain that danced in rhythms.

Looking out from a vista point to take in Kowloon's high-rises and boats chugging along Victoria Harbour, I felt a pang of regret about leaving. There was still so much to see and explore. I was fascinated by the character of Hong Kong: molded by the past but eagerly looking to the future, imperfect but striving to offer its best - and forever interesting.

We plan to visit its shores again, Communist Chinese rule or not.

On Location

Here are some tips for getting the most out of your trip to Hong Kong:

Stop by the Hong Kong Tourist Association at the airport for free maps, brochures and general travel guidelines.

Take the Airbus to your hotel. It's a modern, air-conditioned bus that's much cheaper than a cab. Fares range from $1.70 to $2.60 a person. But bring exact change. The driver doesn't have any.

If you have to take a taxi, ask the Hong Kong Tourist Association staff to write out the address of your destination in Chinese. Many cab drivers don't speak fluent English.

While the subway is a faster and more convenient way to get around, try the Star Ferry between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon at least once. You can catch a great view of skyscrapers on the islands. It only takes eight minutes and costs a quarter.

If you're a shopaholic, wear old, comfortable shoes for walking. The roads can be muddy or dusty.

Be aware that some extra-large sizes are really more like medium sizes. Some also shrink after one washing.

Check first with a clerk about trying things on. Some stores don't allow it.

Check your purchases carefully because quality is spotty. It's also difficult to return merchandise.

Refrain from buying electronic goods. Not only are they expensive, but the voltage may be different.

If you're planning to be in Hong Kong when the changeover occurs July 1, here is a sampling of special events that will be held (visitors cannot attend the actual reunification ceremony; however, it will be televised).

June 14-15 - Hong Kong Dragon Boat Festival International Races. Shing Mun River, Sha Tin (New Territories).

Mid-June to the end of July - A 10,000-foot dragon in lights will be on display. It will stretch from one section of Salisbury Road to the end of Nathan Road in Kowloon.

June to July - Hong Kong Harbour will be decorated and lit up.

July 1 - Fireworks display, 8:30 to 9:30 p.m. over Victoria Harbour.

Information: Hong Kong Tourist Association, 310-208-4582; Web site, http://www.hkta.org

CAPTION(S):

4 Photos, 2 Boxes

Photo: (1--Color) The metropolis of Hong Kong, soon to be turned over to the People's Republic of China, glitters by night and is a sea of humanity by day.

(2--Color)Colorful songbirds and parrots are featured at the Bird Market.

(3--Color)Jade jewelry captivates shoppers at Hong Kong's Jade Market.

(4) Trendy shops atop Victoria Peak overlooking Hong Kong's Victoria Harbour are reminiscent of Universal City.

Hong Kong Tourist Association

Box: (1) On Location (See text)

(2) Outtakes (See text)