HIKING: SOME SOLACE AT SOLSTICE PLENTY OF SURPRISES IN STORE ON THIS TRAIL.

Byline: William Toren Staff Writer

Driving south on Pacific Coast Highway through Malibu, my eyes are invariably attracted to the blue expanse of the Pacific Ocean to my right. This is only natural, as the famed beaches are rightly admired around the world. But I've recently discovered that there are treasures to enjoy on the other side of the road, my most recent find being Solstice Canyon.

Tucked off blink-and-you'll-miss-it Corral Canyon Road, between Kanan and Malibu Canyon, Solstice Canyon at first glance is a deceptively plain picnic ground with a creek running through it, which is nice but not of much allure to an avid outdoorist who's seen this kind of thing countless times. A quick survey around the grounds, however, reveals this pleasant environment to hold more complex enjoyments.

The Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area maintains a research facility near the trailheads, where conservationists are working to reconstruct the Humboldt Terrace meadow, reintroducing native plants and slowly thinning out the imported grasses and shrubs. Restroom and trash facilities are available here as well.

A handy map gave me the first hint that there was much more, however. Hiking trails catering to all tastes penetrate the wilderness, branching off from the main park area and often crossing each other in a way that not only lets individuals customize the lengths of their journeys but also allow a frequent visitor to find surprises among the roads not taken.

The Sunrise Trail offers the purest hiking route, as it immediately leaves the paved road for a rocky footpath that zigzags up the canyon slopes. There's a stark departure from the shady sycamore and oak that border the creek, as the trail ascends into the chaparral familiar to observers of Southern California hillsides. But if the lack of exotic flora leaves some unimpressed, the hike also provides a good view of some astonishing feats of human engineering clinging to the heights of the southern slope: mansions in a dizzying array of architectural styles, all seemingly glued to the rock face rather than built on solid foundations. Best to have both feet firmly planted when gazing at these castles in the air.

The trail gets steep along its 1.3-mile one-way distance, but for the well-conditioned trekker up to the challenge, it's more than worth it. With each turn in the path, a quick look over the shoulder reveals increasingly breathtaking views back toward the canyon's mouth, where the shining Pacific stretches off into the horizon and the only hints to the existence of busy PCH is the occasional flash of the sun reflected on a windshield. Even if you're not the kind to break a sweat during a triathlon, the vista offers reason enough to take the occasional rest while making the ascent.

And if the climb does leave you huffing and puffing, a few deep breaths of the omnipresent scent of sage in the air serves as a tonic for weary limbs. Of course, the sense of satisfaction one achieves when reaching the summit is unparalleled, despite that dull ache in the thighs. I followed the Sunrise Trail as it descended back into the canyon, following what ultimately turned into the back route into one of the other wonders of the park: Tropical Terrace.

Built in the 1950s as the kind of recessed retreat that only fans of Don Ho could truly embrace, Tropical Terrace was abandoned after a fire in 1982. What remains is essentially a ruin, although it gives off more of a ``Planet of the Apes''/``Logan's Run'' aura than any evocation of the fallen-marble time machines of Italy or Greece. Brick chimneys and partial walls have been overgrown by fan palms, island creepers and other tropical transplants that had given the hideaway its name and are now taking away its form piece by piece.

Exploring further among the crumbling concrete and such, I discovered a path leading to another surprise, a year-round waterfall. Established trails end here, but the soothing flow of the creek splashing down the rocks into a boulder-walled grotto leave nothing further to be desired. A trifle worn by my trip up and down the mountain, I took a seat on a stone by a pool and drank in the tranquillity, marveling at how I was less than two miles from one of the region's busiest thoroughfares.

My bliss-out instincts satisfied, I decided to take the main Solstice Canyon Trail back to the park. Paved, broad and open to bicyclists as well as hikers, this trail proved a bit easier on the constitution than the Sunrise Trail, and beginning hikers might want to start with a stab at this route. With ample shade, it follows the creek, such that trekkers who like a little noise in their travels can tune in to the gurgle. Be cautioned, however, that the water crosses the path at several points, simply flowing over the pavement before tumbling back into the ravine. This is slippery, so watch your step!

Ambling past grassy meadows and serpentine oak limbs, it occurred to me that in many ways Solstice Canyon was the perfect expression of what makes Southern California so special: Working up a good sweat tromping around the hills and canyons, I looked forward to simply crossing the street and finding myself squishing sand between my toes as they made their way for a refreshing dip in the ocean.

CAPTION(S):

map

Map: (color) Solstice Canyon