HEY, CREAM PUFF; PROFITEROLES - AND THEIR LARGER COUSINS - DANCE RIGHT INTO A NIGHT OF FINE DINING.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

When I grew up, many a mom or cook knew how to make cream puffs - those mysteriously billowy, golden, airy flights of fancy that so fascinated children and guests alike. The recipe was a dessert and appetizer staple, especially when entertaining. The larger cream puffs could be filled with assorted ice creams or custards or vanilla, chocolate or coffee pastry creams and drizzled generously with hot fudge sauce. The smaller, miniature sizes were stuffed with crab or curried chicken salad for parties, weddings and teas or with ice cream to make the classic French dessert, profiteroles.

At our house, one of my mother's signature dessert offerings for company was one large puff split and filled with pink peppermint stick ice cream, then topped with homemade hot fudge sauce (a must!). Guests found them heavenly - and so did I. Desserts didn't get much better in those days.

Cream puffs are made from a soft-batter pastry dough known as choux pastry or pate a choux, which translates from the French as cabbage pastry because the appearance of the finished product bears a vague resemblance to a miniature cabbage. Besides simple cream puffs and eclairs, the dough is the foundation of lavish structures like the towering tree-shaped croquembouche held together with carmelized sugar, the crownlike dessert gateau Saint-Honore or the Paris-Brest, a cream filled cream-puff pastry ring. And whimsical choux paste swans filled with sweetened whipped cream were all the rage at parties in the late '70s and early '80s.

Somehow over the years, cream puffs have disappeared from the home cooks' repertoire. But the classic pastry is worth resurrecting or giving another look. Not only is it one of the easiest doughs to make, but it can be prepared in just a few minutes. ``It's the most versatile of French pastry doughs,'' wrote Richard Grausman in his cookbook, ``At Home With the French Classics,'' (Workman Publishing), and ``it can be baked in a multitude of forms.''

The pastry goes together in a jiffy on the stove-top. Just add flour to boiling water and butter and cook the mixture until a thick paste or ball is formed. In most recipes, the eggs are then beaten in one at a time, until smooth, but in the more recent editions of the Betty Crocker cookbooks, they're added all at once - as you'll notice in the recipe included today. I've had success both ways, but prefer adding the eggs all at once. Use a heavy wooden spoon to blend smooth.

Baking directions also vary in recipes. Some recommend baking the dough in mounds at a constant temperature throughout. Others start baking in a hot oven, then reduce the oven temperature to finish. Also to dry out the insides, some recipes direct cooks to remove the puffs from the oven and cut a slit in the sides with a sharp knife, and then return them to a turned-off oven with the door ajar for 10 minutes. Others simply remove the puffs to racks to cool. Experiment and suit yourself.

But how does this dough seem to puff up almost magically? ``The dough is leavened by steam, which expands the product rapidly and forms large holes in the center of the (puff),'' noted Wayne Gisslen, in ``Professional Baking, Second Edition'' (John Wiley & Sons). ``The heat of the oven then coagulates the gluten and egg proteins to set the structure and make a firm product.''

Once cooled, cut the tops off the cream puffs and fill as desired - or make a hole in the side and use a pastry bag and tip to pipe in the filling.

You can still find cream puffs at selected bakeries and restaurants in an array of forms and sizes and with various fillings.

When diners are presented with the dessert selections at Chaya Brasserie in Los Angeles, Le Petit Bistro in Sherman Oaks, La Cachette in Century City and Bouchon in Los Angeles, they'll find profiteroles among the choices. Most restaurants serve three on a plate, sometimes stacked in a little pyramid, filled with ice cream and topped with chocolate or hot fudge sauce.

One of the fanciest presentations can be found at Chaya Brasserie where Pistachio Ice Cream Profiteroles With Hot Fudge and Cinnamon Biscotti have been a dessert menu mainstay for 10 years. Designed by the French-trained executive chef, the creation ($7.50), which is topped with a sugar-cookie flower design and a chocolate cookie cone, is one of the three most popular from among the 12 desserts offered nightly, according to general manager Lawrence Moore of Chaya Brasserie.

She credits the popularity to the presentation and adds the dessert is fun, playful and truly amazing-tasting with freshly made pistachio ice cream zipped up with a splash of brandy. The restaurant will fill the cream puffs with any flavor ice cream or sorbet available. Some diners have requested honey ice cream or raspberry sorbet.

``They're a dessert you remember from your childhood - and are similar to a sundae,'' added Allie Ko, general manager of La Cachette.

Now give cream puffs a whirl at home - you may be surprised at the myriad combinations you can create. Included in today's collection are basic recipes for the puffs along with a variety of traditional and easy upscale fillings - both sweet and savory. Remember you can also use your favorite chocolate mousse or ice creams and sorbets for desserts. Toppings for sweet variations include lemon, raspberry, fudge and caramel.

For appetizers, cheese spreads, chutney cream-cheese combos, red pepper cream cheese spread and even picadillo-style mixtures would be delicious fillings. Mix and match to suit personal tastes. Also included are a couple of renditions of the pastry dough that have a few different ingredients baked in - Sun Dried Tomato Cream Puffs and Italian Cheese Puffs.

There's lots of good eating waiting for you in cream puffs. For best results, bake, fill and serve the puffs the same day.

CREAM PUFFS

1 cup water

1/2 cup butter OR margarine

1 cup flour

4 eggs

In 2 1/2-to 3-quart saucepan, heat water and butter to a rolling boil. Stir in flour. Stir vigorously over low heat about 1 minute or until mixture forms a ball. Remove from heat.

Beat in eggs, all at one time; continue beating until smooth. Drop dough by scant 1/4 cupfuls 3 inches apart onto an ungreased baking sheet.

Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 35 to 40 minutes or until puffed and golden. Cool away from draft.

Cut off top 1/3 of each puff. Pull out any filaments of soft dough and discard. Carefully fill puffs with pastry cream, ice cream, chocolate mousse, sweetened whipped cream or other dessert fillings. Replace tops. Serve immediately sprinkled with sifted powdered sugar or topped with hot fudge, caramel, lemon or raspberry sauce. Refrigerate any remaining filled puffs (if filled with ice cream, place in freezer). Makes 12 cream puffs.

VARIATIONS

PETITS CHOUX (MINIATURE CREAM PUFFS): Drop dough by slightly rounded teaspoonfuls onto an ungreased baking sheet. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, as directed in above recipe. Fill with sweet or savory fillings as desired and serve as dessert or appetizers. Makes about 5 dozen miniature puffs.

CHOCOLATE CREAM PUFFS: Decrease flour to 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons. Mix 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder and 1 tablespoon sugar with flour. Proceed to make dough as directed for Cream Puffs above. Shape and bake 12 cream puffs as directed. Fill puffs with chocolate OR peppermint ice cream and serve immediately topped with hot fudge sauce (store-bought OR homemade).

CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS: Shape dough by 1/4 cupfuls into fingers 4 1/2 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide on ungreased baking sheet. Bake as directed in Cream Puff recipe above. When cool, fill with Cream Filling (recipe follows) or pastry cream or pudding.

Frost with Chocolate Icing made by melting a 1-ounce square unsweetened chocolate and 1 teaspoon butter over low heat. Remove from heat; stir in 1 cup powdered sugar and about 2 tablespoons hot water. Beat until smooth. Refrigerate eclairs until serving time. Makes 12 eclairs.

From ``Betty Crocker's Cookbook.''

CREAM FILLING

1/3 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch 

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 cups milk

2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons margarine OR butter, softened

2 teaspoons vanilla

Mix sugar, cornstarch and salt in a 2-quart saucepan. Gradually stir in milk. Cook, over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens and boils. Boil and stir 1 minute. Gradually stir at least 1/2 of hot mixture into egg yolks. Stir into hot mixture in saucepan. Boil and stir 1 minute; remove from heat. Stir in margarine and vanilla; cool. Makes enough to fill 12 cream puffs.

From ``Betty Crocker's Cookbook.''

SWEETENED WHIPPED CREAM

1 cup heavy whipping cream 

2 tablespoons granulated OR powdered sugar

Beat cream and sugar in chilled bowl of electric mixer until stiff. Makes about 2 cups whipped cream.

FLAVORED WHIPPED CREAM: Beat in one of the following to the cream mixture above: 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel OR orange peel; 1 teaspoon vanilla; 1/2 teaspoon almond extract; 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon; or 1/2 teaspoon rum flavoring.

From ``Betty Crocker's Cookbook,'' Prentice Hall, 7th Edition.

PINA COLADA CREAM PUFF FILLING

1 box (2 3/4 ounces) vanilla pudding mix (NOT instant)

2 cups whole milk

1/2 cup plus 1/3 cup flaked, sweetened coconut

1 can (8 ounces) crushed pineapple, well drained

1/4 teaspoon rum extract

6 to 8 large baked Cream Puffs

1 cup powdered sugar

1 tablespoon water

Cook pudding according to package directions, using 2 cups milk. Scrape into a bowl, cover surface directly with plastic food wrap and chill until cool. When cool, fold in 1/2 cup coconut and pineapple. Stir in rum extract. Chill until ready to use.

When ready to fill, cut 6 to 8 cream puffs in half horizontally and pull out any moist dough inside. Fill with pudding mixture. Replace tops.

For topping, combine powdered sugar and water and beat until smooth. Drizzle icing over tops of puffs. Sprinkle with remaining 1/3 cup coconut. Serve immediately. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From Jane Snow, Akron Beacon Journal.

CHOCOLATE CHANTILLY

This is rich and mousse-like, but it's made without eggs. Use it as a cream puff filling or simply serve it in stemmed glasses like a chocolate mousse. This is one idea you'll want to add to your basics recipe repertoire.

1/2 cup sugar

4 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate, cut up

1/4 cup water

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup heavy whipping cream

In a 1-quart glass bowl, combine sugar, chocolate and water. Heat in a microwave oven on high power about 1 1/2 minutes or until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth when stirred. Stir in vanilla. Let cool.

Whip cream until it forms soft peaks. Fold into cooled chocolate mixture. Spoon into large or miniature cream puff shells. Top with raspberry or caramel sauce. Serve immediately. Makes enough filling for 6 large cream puff shells.

From ``365 Great Chocolate Desserts'' by Natalie Haughton, HarperCollins.

CHOCOLATE PASTRY-STYLE CREAM

Here's a quick way to make chocolate pastry cream with a package of pudding mix and whipped cream. Keep refrigerated before filling cream puffs.

1 cup heavy whipping cream

3/4 cup milk

1/4 cup dark rum, Grand Marnier, brewed coffee OR orange juice

1 package (4 ounces) INSTANT chocolate fudge flavor pudding and pie filling mix

In a medium bowl, beat cream with an electric mixer on high speed until stiff; set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine milk and rum; add pudding mix. Beat with an electric mixer on low speed until well blended, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes.

Fold whipped cream into pudding mixture until no white streaks remain. Refrigerate until using to fill cream puffs. Makes 4 cups.

NOTE: This is also a good mousse-like frosting to fill and frost a 9-inch two-layer cake.

From ``365 Great Chocolate Desserts'' by Natalie Haughton, HarperCollins.

LEMON CREAM FILLING

1 package (3 ounces) cream cheese, softened

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1/2 cup sifted powdered sugar

1/2 teaspoon lemon peel

1 teaspoon grated lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Place cream cheese in a large, deep bowl. With an electric mixer at high speed, beat until smooth. Beating constantly, pour in cream in a steady stream. Mixture should have consistency of stiffly whipped cream at all times; if it looks soft, stop adding cream until mixture thickens. Do not overbeat or mixture will break down.

Stir in powdered sugar, lemon peel, lemon juice and vanilla. (At this point, you may cover and refrigerate until next day.)

Use to fill cream puffs. Sprinkle tops with powdered sugar. Makes about 2 cups filling.

From ``Sunset New Easy Basics Cookbook,'' edited by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio, Sunset Books Inc.

DARK CHOCOLATE FUDGE SAUCE 

This yummy dark sauce can be kept refrigerated for two weeks. Serve warm or hot over ice cream filled cream puffs.

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

1/3 cup granulated sugar 

3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Dutch-processed)

3/4 cup heavy whipping cream

3 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

Dash salt

In a 1-quart glass bowl, combine brown sugar, granulated sugar, cocoa and cream. Mix well. Add butter. Heat in microwave oven on high power 1 1/2 to 2 minutes, stirring once, until well mixed. Heat 1 to 1 1/2 minutes longer or until bubbly and sugars are dissolved. Stir in vanilla and salt.

Serve hot over ice cream filled cream puffs. Or cool and store in refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Reheat in microwave oven on low power 1 to 2 minutes, stirring twice, until of good pouring consistency. Makes 1 3/4 cups.

From ``365 Great Chocolate Desserts'' by Natalie Haughton, HarperCollins.

RASPBERRY-CURRANT SAUCE

1/2 cup currant jelly

1 package (10 ounces) frozen raspberries, thawed and undrained

1 tablespoon cold water

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

Heat jelly and raspberries to boiling in a 1-quart saucepan. Mix cold water and cornstarch. Stir into raspberries. Heat to boiling, stirring constantly. Boil and stir 1 minute; cool. Press through a sieve to remove seeds, if desired. Makes about 1 1/3 cups sauce.

TO MICROWAVE: Omit water. Mix jelly and 1 tablespoon cornstarch in a 4-cup microwavable measure until well blended. Gradually stir in raspberries. Microwave, uncovered, on high power 5 to 6 minutes, stirring every minute, until boiling.

From ``Betty Crocker's Cookbook,'' Prentice Hall, 7th Edition.

CARAMEL SAUCE

3/4 cup packed brown sugar

3/4 cup heavy whipping cream

2 teaspoons butter

1 teaspoon vanilla OR 1 tablespoon brandy

In a medium saucepan, combine brown sugar and cream. Heat to a boiling over high heat, whisking constantly. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in butter and vanilla.

Spoon some of caramel sauce over filled dessert cream puffs. Serve immediately. Makes enough sauce for 6 servings.

From ``The 5 in 10 Dessert Cookbook'' by Natalie Haughton, Hearst Books.

LEMON SAUCE

A favorite with its clean lemon flavor and multitude of uses.

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch

3/4 cup cold water

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel

1/4 cup lemon juice

2 tablespoons margarine OR butter

Mix sugar and cornstarch in a 1-quart saucepan. Gradually stir in water. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens and boils. Boil and stir 1 minute; remove from heat. Stir in remaining ingredients.

Serve warm or cold. Makes about 1 1/4 cups sauce.

TO MICROWAVE: Mix sugar and cornstarch in a 4-cup microwavable measure. Gradually stir in water. Microwave, uncovered, on high power 3 to 4 minutes, stirring every minute until thickened and clear. Stir in remaining ingredients.

From ``Betty Crocker's Cookbook,'' Prentice Hall, 7th Edition.

SUN-DRIED TOMATO CREAM PUFFS

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup margarine OR butter

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons finely chopped sun-dried tomatoes (NOT oil-packed)

1/4 teaspoon dried basil leaves

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper (cayenne)

2 eggs

4 ounces cream cheese OR herb-flavored cream cheese, softened

In a medium saucepan, bring water and margarine to a boil. Stir in remaining ingredients except eggs and cream cheese. Cook over medium heat, stirring vigorously, until mixture leaves sides of pan in a smooth compact ball, about 1 minute. Remove from heat.

Add eggs, one at a time, beating with a hand mixer 1 minute after each addition until mixture is smooth and glossy. Drop mixture by tablespoonfuls or pipe from a decorating bag onto an ungreased baking sheet to form 20 puffs.

Bake in preheated 425-degree oven 15 to 20 minutes or until puffed and golden brown. Remove from oven; cut small slit in side of each puff to allow steam to vent. Cool completely.

To serve, cut puffs in half; spoon or pipe each half with about 1 teaspoon cream cheese. Serve immediately. Makes 40 appetizers.

From ``The Best Appetizer Cookbook'' by Pillsbury.

ITALIAN CHEESE PUFFS

1 cup water

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

1/2 cup Italian seasoned bread crumbs

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

3 eggs

6 ounces shredded mozzarella cheese

1 1/2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese 

Place water and butter in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat.

Remove pan from heat and stir in flour, bread crumbs, salt and pepper. Cook over low heat, stirring 1 minute.

Transfer mixture to a medium bowl. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Beat in mozzarella cheese.

Drop mixture by teaspoonfuls on an ungreased baking sheet. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Bake in preheated 375-degree oven about 15 minutes or until puffed and golden brown. Makes about 4 dozen.

From ``Party Receipts From the Charleston Junior League, Algonquin Books of Chapel Hill.

SEAFOOD SALAD FILLING

1 to 1 1/4 cups crab meat, shrimp OR lobster

1 cup thinly sliced celery

1/3 cup mayonnaise OR salad dressing

1 tablespoon minced green onion

1/4 teaspoon salt

Dash pepper

Combine seafood and celery in a bowl. Mix mayonnaise, onion, salt and pepper. Pour over seafood and celery; toss. Cover; chill at least 2 hours.

Use to fill baked miniature cream puffs.

NOTE: Recipe can be doubled.

From ``Betty Crocker's Cookbook'' by General Mills, 1969; Golden Press.

EASY TUNA SALAD

2 cans (6 1/2 ounces EACH) tuna, drained and flaked

1/2 cup minced Bermuda onion 

Juice of 1/2 lemon

3/4 to 1 cup mayonnaise (depending on how creamy a mixture is desired)

2 tablespoons minced parsley

Pinch salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

Mix all ingredients. Chill several hours before serving.

Use to fill baked miniature cream puffs. Refrigerate until serving time. Makes about 3 cups.

VARIATIONS

TART TUNA SALAD: Prepare recipe as directed above, but add 2 tablespoons minced capers and 1 tablespoon minced fresh dill OR 1/2 teaspoon dried dill.

HERBED TUNA SALAD: Prepare recipe as directed above, but increase parsley to 3 tablespoons and add 1 tablespoon minced fresh marjoram OR 1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram.

TUNA-CUCUMBER SALAD: Prepare recipe as directed above, but add 1/3 cup minced cucumber OR diced celery.

From ``The New Doubleday Cookbook,'' by Jean Anderson and Elaine Hanna, Doubleday.

EGG SALAD FILLING

12 hard-cooked eggs, chilled, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon minced yellow onion

1/4 cup minced celery (optional)

1 tablespoon minced parsely (optional)

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

1/4 to 1/3 cup mayonnaise

3 to 4 tablespoons milk

Mix all ingredients together, adding just enough mayonnaise and milk to give salad a good consistency. Cover and chill several hours.

Use to fill miniature cream puffs. Keep refrigerated or serve immediately. Makes 3 cups egg salad mixture.

VARIATIONS

PICKLE-EGG SALAD: Prepare recipe as directed above, but add 2 tablespoons minced dill OR sweet pickle and substitute 1 to 2 tablespoons pickle juice for 1 to 2 tablespoons milk.

DILLED EGG SALAD: Prepare recipe as directed above, but add 1 tablespoon EACH minced fresh dill and capers.

From ``The New Doubleday Cookbook'' by Jean Anderson and Elaine Hanna, Doubleday.

CHICKEN OR TURKEY SALAD

A good basic salad to vary according to whim.

3 cups minced cooked chicken OR turkey

1 cup diced celery

1/4 cup minced yellow onion OR green onions

1/4 cup minced sweet green bell pepper

2 tablespoons minced piemiento

3/4 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons French dressing, lemon juice OR milk

1/4 teaspoon salt (about)

1/8 teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon minced parsley

Mix all ingredients; cover and chill 2 to 3 hours. Taste for salt and adjust.

Use to fill miniature cream puffs. Serve immediately or chill until serving time.

VARIATIONS

CHICKEN AND VEGETABLE SALAD: Reduce celery to 1/2 cup and mix in 1 to 1 1/2 cups of any of the following: diced cucumber; cooked cut green beans; cooked asparagus tips; diced unpeeled raw baby zucchini; diced, peeled, cored and seeded tomatoes; slivered water chestnuts.

CURRIED CHICKEN SALAD: Add 1 to 2 tablespoons curry powder and 1/4 cup raisins OR almonds.

CHICKEN AND HAM SALAD: Prepare as directed in above recipe, using 1 1/2 cups EACH diced cooked chicken and ham.

From ``The New Doubleday Cookbook'' by Jean Anderson and Elaine Hanna, Doubleday.

CAPTION(S):

3 Photos

Photo: (1--2--Color) Cream puffs can be served large or small and with sweet or savory filings. One of the fanciest dessert presentations of profiteroles is the Pistachio Ice Cream Profiteroles With Hot Fudge and Cinnamon Biscotti, above, served at Chaya Brasserie in Los Angeles. For something different for dessert at home, try large cream puffs with a Pina Colada Filling, below, made with vanilla pudding mix.

Charlotte Schmid-Maybach/Staff Photographer

Ed Suba Jr./Akron Beacon Journal

(3) Update miniature cream puffs for appetizers with these Sun-Dried Tomato Cream Puffs, which have basil and sun-dried tomatoes baked in the dough. They are topped with cream cheese.