HERE COMES THE BRIDE; SIMPLICITY IS SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW IN GOWNS.Byline: Barbara De Witt De Witt, uninc. town (1990 pop. 8,244), Onondaga co., central N.Y., a residential suburb of Syracuse. Daily News Fashion Editor Brides look like brides again. Gone are the tight starlet star·let n. 1. A small star. 2. A young film actress publicized as a future star. starlet Noun a young actress who has the potential to become a star Noun 1. gowns with a blinding abundance of rhinestones and sequins, the fur trims and feather boas. Passe are the retro mini-dresses and edgy black wedding party ensembles that made news in the '80s. ``Simplicity is the word,'' says Collene Kennedy, fashion spokeswoman for the nationwide chain of David's Bridal Salons. According to Kennedy (she's no relation to the Kennedy clan), it all started with Carolyn Bessette Kennedy's ultra-clean bias-cut slip dress by Narciso Rodriguez. ``That dress has been the strongest influence in the bridal business, as well as prom styles, and it really opened the door to alternatives. Suddenly, young women were passing on the more decorative gowns, and considering slip or sheath styles. But Carolyn Bessette's is too plain for most brides ... they usually ask for a little bit more dazzle,'' she explained. Call it the nostalgia factor, but another Mrs. Kennedy - Jackie - has also influenced current bridal fashions. Take a look in bridal stores and fashion magazines and you'll see several variations on that original lace-trimmed Ann Lowe gown with a fitted bodice, off-the-shoulder cap sleeves, and a ball gown skirt of taffeta taffeta, cloth, originally silk but now also made of synthetic fibers, supposed to have originated in Persia. The name, derived from Persian, means "twisted woven." Taffeta is in the same class and demand as satin made of silk. . Part of the ball gown's popularity is due to our fascination with the '50s, but Angelica Divinagracia, owner of the Bridal Suite in Sherman Oaks, gives most of the credit to the hit film ``Titanic.'' Another often-requested silhouette is the A-line, a silhouette created by Oleg Cassini for Jackie Kennedy when she became first lady. With lines that skim over the body, it's flattering to a number of figure types and often the choice for the entire bridal party, she said. More details? Think about retro fabrics you haven't seen in awhile, like organza or·gan·za n. A sheer, stiff fabric of silk or synthetic material used for trimming, neckwear, or evening dresses. [Probably after Organzi (Urganch), a city of western Uzbekistan. , chiffon chiffon (shĭfŏn`), plain-weave, lightweight, sheer, transparent fabric made of cotton, silk, or synthetic fiber; it is made of fine, highly twisted, strong yarn. and that '50s fave fave Informal n. One that is preferred above others or likely to win; a favorite. adj. Favorite. [Short for favorite.] - tulle Tulle (t  l, Fr. tül), town (1990 pop. 18,685), capital of Corrèze dept., S central France. Firearms and other goods are made there. Tulle was built around a 7th-century monastery. . Accents still include re-embroidered lace, pearls and fabric rosettes, but draped drape v. draped, drap·ing, drapes v.tr. 1. To cover, dress, or hang with or as if with cloth in loose folds: draped the coffin with a flag; a robe that draped her figure. fabric across the neckline neckline The line that connects the two lowest points on the intermediate declines of a head-and-shoulders chart pattern. In an inverted head-and-shoulders formation, the neckline connects the two intermediate tops. and strap detailing in the back are fresher. Veils are a classic choice, but rhinestone rhine·stone n. A colorless artificial gem of paste or glass, often with facets that sparkle in imitation of a diamond. [After the Rhine (translation of French caillou du Rhin : tiaras or fresh flowers, such as gardenias, are hot. The trend is fueled by stars such as Ashley Judd and Drew Barrymore who wore flowers in their hair at the Oscars. With the season's mostly sleeveless gowns, elbow-length gloves are back, and bridesmaids are dying them to match their icy pastel-colored gowns. Another blast from the past is the idea of a rainbow of colors in the bridal party, says Kennedy. Each girl wears a different pastel - such as lilac, mint green, pale blue or peach - but in the same dress style. A newer variation on the rainbow ensemble, Divinagracia says, features each girl in a different style dress of the same hue. Shoes (stilettos, strappy high-heeled sandals or clunky platforms) are often dyed to match the dress, gloves and stoles, but these fashion experts also like metallic or bone-colored accessories. To complement the frill-free gowns, brides are carrying oversize o·ver·size n. 1. A size that is larger than usual. 2. An oversize article or object. adj. o·ver·size also o·ver·sized Larger in size than usual or necessary. Adj. 1. , frivolous nosegays, says Nancy Kaye, the bridal consultant for Mark's Garden in Sherman Oaks. ``The bouquets are old-fashioned, made of gardenias, blush-colored roses, lilies of the valley and stephanotis. And, honest, nobody wants orchids anymore, not even for the mother-of-the-bride's corsage,'' Kaye adds. While the bride's bouquet is dinner-plate sized, the bridal party and mothers carry smaller nosegays in the same theme, and the groom and his ushers usually wear boutonnieres with lilies of the valley instead of roses or carnations. Most everybody knows that the bride is the star of a wedding, but the groom's attire has to complement the bridal gown. According to Robert Bennett, president of Raffinati formal wear, the newest looks are a youthful, refined interpretation of the traditional black jacket and trouser of nearly 100 years ago. ``Jackets are more fitted and longer with higher necklines. Satin lapels (notch or peak), panels and piping create modern drama of vintage designs in black worsted wool,'' Bennett says. But he also notes new interest in white tuxedos with white satin vests. CAPTION(S): 7 photos PHOTO (1) An elegant sheath reminiscent of those worn by '50s film stars and accented with elbow-length gloves, from David's Bridal Salon. (2) Ball gowns are back in style, especially with the clean lines of this organza gown with satin-trimmed hemline hem·line n. 1. The bottom edge of a skirt, dress, or coat. 2. The height of the edge of such a garment, measured from the floor. , from David's Bridal Salon. (3) A flash from the past is this lace-trimmed gown with a tulle-covered skirt. To complete the nostalgic look, carry a nosegay bouquet. (4) The A-line silhouette originated by Oleg Cassini in the '60s is looking new again, especially in this St. Pucchi design featuring short sleeves and worn with short gloves. (5 -- color) Tiaras, choker necklaces and rose-bud-trimmed gowns were the news at the recent Neiman Marcus bridal fair. Evan Yee/Daily News (6) On the cover: A '50s-inspired off-the-shoulder gown from the Montclair Collection in Santa Monica. Evan Yee/Daily News (7 -- color -- cover) Rhapsody in white Rhapsody in White was huge success for Love Unlimited Orchestra that rode along in the charts with Barry White's single at the time of "I'm Gonna Love You Just a Little Bit More" Tracks
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