HEARTS AFIRE; WHISPER SWEET NOTHINGS, OFFER SWEET SOMETHINGS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Daily News Food Editor

Ignite the fire and romance in your valentine with tempting sweets. Since this is the last Valentine's Day before the millennium - unless you believe it starts in 2001 - pull out all the stops and make it great.

You can turn out an array of showy and fabulous creations quickly and easily with a few shortcuts and a little help from convenience foods like prepared refrigerated crusts, prepared chocolate or graham cracker crumb crusts, frozen puff pastry, brownie mix, canned cherry pie filling and topping, and even packaged cake or pudding mixes. Gussied up, they look and taste great.

For instance, whip up a gorgeous Sweetheart Puff for a candlelight dinner finale with a sheet of frozen puff pastry cut into the shape of a large heart. Once baked, it's topped with a creamy chocolate mixture that's made with just three ingredients - butter, cream and chocolate. After the chocolate sets in the fridge, crown with a can of cherry pie filling. Pipe whipped cream or whipped topping around the sides for the glorious finishing touch on this picturesque dessert.

Or think about making several smaller tarts by cutting the puff pastry sheet into individual serving-size hearts, then dividing up the other recipe ingredients among them.

Frozen puff pastry lends itself to other dessert possibilities as well - layered napoleons with baked puff pastry layers sandwiched with pudding mix in between and topped with a chocolate glaze - or puff pastry pinwheels made by sprinkling puff pastry sheets with chocolate chips and chopped nuts, then rolling up jelly-roll fashion, cutting into slices and baking.

The base of the Be Mine Cherry Cake is a package of yellow cake mix prepared according to package directions, then turned out over marshmallows and topped with a can of cherry pie filling. The marshmallows melt and rise to the top, making a glaze, so no frosting is required. Another time, try chocolate cake mix and peach pie filling for a change of pace - or mix and match to suit your personal tastes.

Other cake mix possibilities in the theme of the day are also feasible. Bake two round chocolate heart-shaped cake layers from a mix, then stack with fresh raspberries and whipped cream in between and on top. Showy, pretty, fast and guaranteed to win a few hearts.

You'll find heart-shaped cake pans readily available at this time of year at many cookware or cake decorating stores - and if you love to bake for special holidays, they may be a good investment. You can use them often to turn out big heart-shaped cookies for special valentines - or even birthday gifts. Simply fill the pan with your favorite chocolate chip or oatmeal cookie batter and bake. Drizzle with melted white or dark chocolate to add a festive finishing touch. Be sure to allow the chocolate to set up before wrapping and giving.

If pie-baking eludes you, or you're in a time-saving frenzy, learn to rely on the prepared pie crusts found in the refrigerator section of supermarkets. Made by Pillsbury, they are terrific. Simply unfold them and turn into a pie or tart pan. I use them frequently - and many people have asked for my pie crust recipe.

To streamline the Chocolate Coconut Tart when time is at a premium, opt to use one of these crusts instead of making the Dark Sweet Chocolate Dough accompanying the recipe. It might not taste exactly the same, but no one will ever know.

Or give the prepared crusts a try by tossing together the colorful Raspberry-Cherry Pie with frozen raspberries and a can of cherry pie filling. Serve room-temperature slices topped with a scoop of ice cream, or for a different presentation, melt some vanilla ice cream and drizzle it over the pie and around the plate. The sauce is a winner - and faster than making homemade creme anglaise. It even tastes similar. Use this shortcut anytime you need a hurry-up sauce for a pie, tart or cake.

Prepared store-bought chocolate or graham cracker crumb crusts are also a boon for cooks - and they are used in Chocolate Raspberry Cream Cheese Pie and Chocolate Satin Pie to get you in and out of the kitchen in no time. The versatile crusts can also be filled with assorted flavor instant pudding and pie filling mixes, made with less milk than called for on the package, with some whipped cream folded in. You can layer the pudding with banana slices or some chopped chocolate or toffee pieces. Once chilled and set up, drizzle the cut slices with hot fudge sauce before serving.

A good example of how to transform a package of brownie mix into a show-stopping dessert can be found in the rich and indulgent Fudgy Orange Cappuccino Torte. Jazz up the mix with orange liqueur, orange peel and chocolate pieces. The filling combines sweetened condensed milk, chocolate, nuts and more orange liqueur. A chocolate-flavored whipped cream gilds the top.

A doctored-up package of brownie mix - with extra chocolate pieces and lots of freshly grated orange peel - can also be baked in a heart-shaped pan. Topped with a chocolate frosting and chocolate dipped strawberries, it's a wonderful edible valentine to give someone special.

Other presentation tips to liven up Valentine's Day desserts: Garnish pie or cake wedges with a dazzling array of berries or present in a pool of store-bought hot fudge, caramel or raspberry sauce like many restaurants do (just make sure the flavors are compatible with your dessert). For garnishing, a pastry bag and tip are a good investment for piping on whipped cream, frostings, ganache and the like. They're easy to master once you get the knack - and make a world of difference if you're trying to impress or making a spectacular-looking dessert. If you don't want to go that route, purchase a can of spray whipped cream and use to garnish the dessert at the last second just before serving (so the cream will stay pouffy).

Don't be intimidated about making a Valentine's dessert to convey a message of love in a special way. With a little imagination, creativity and a few shortcuts, you can be on your way to success. Happy Valentine's Day.

SWEETHEART PUFF

1 sheet frozen puff pastry (1/2 of a 17 1/4-ounce package), thawed

6 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1/4 cup butter OR margarine

1/4 cup whipping cream 

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 can (21 ounces) cherry pie filling and topping

1 cup frozen whipped topping, thawed OR 1 cup whipping cream

Unfold pastry on a lightly floured surface; roll out to smooth folds. Cut out a large heart shape (about 9x8 inches.)

Wet edge of pastry with water; fold in edge toward center about 1/2 inch. Press down edges with fork tines. Prick center area of pastry with fork tines several times.

On top, place a piece of foil cut to fit center of heart; top with pie weights, dry beans or uncooked rice to prevent puffing.

Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 8 minutes. Remove foil with weights, rice or beans.

Bake 4 to 7 minutes more or until golden brown. Cool completely on a wire rack.

Melt chocolate, butter and cream in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring constantly. Stir in vanilla. Refrigerate 30 minutes.

Spread chocolate mixture over center of heart. Refrigerate 30 minutes. Spoon cherry pie filling over chocolate layer. Pipe or spoon whipped topping around edge of heart.

Refrigerate until serving time. Makes 6 servings.

CHOCOLATE RASPBERRY CREAM CHEESE PIE

2 packages (3 ounces EACH) cream cheese, softened

1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated milk)

1 egg

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 cup fresh OR frozen raspberries

1 (6-ounce) prepared chocolate crumb pie crust

Chocolate Glaze

With a mixer, beat cream cheese until fluffy. Gradually beat in sweetened condensed milk until smooth. Add egg, lemon juice and vanilla; mix well.

Arrange raspberries on bottom of crust. Slowly pour cheese mixture over fruit.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 30 to 35 minutes or until center is almost set. Cool.

Top cheesecake with Chocolate Glaze. Chill. Garnish as desired. Makes 1 pie.

CHOCOLATE GLAZE: In a small saucepan, over low heat, melt 2 squares (1 ounce EACH) semisweet chocolate with 1/4 cup whipping cream. Cook and stir until thickened and smooth. Remove from heat.

TRIPLE CHOCOLATE VALENTINE BROWNIES

1 1/4 cups unsifted flour

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 cup cold butter OR margarine

1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated milk)

1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 

1 egg

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 (8-ounce) milk chocolate bar, broken into chunks

3/4 cup chopped nuts (optional)

Line a 13x9-inch baking pan with heavy foil; set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine 1 cup flour and sugar; cut in butter until crumbly. Press on bottom of baking pan.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 15 minutes.

In a large bowl, beat sweetened condensed milk, cocoa, egg, remaining 1/4 cup flour, vanilla and baking powder. Mix in chocolate chunks and nuts. Spread over prepared crust.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 20 minutes or until set.

Cool. Use foil to lift out of pan.

For hearts, cut with a heart-shaped cookie cutter, or with a knife, cut around wax paper heart shape. Or cut into bars.

Store tightly covered. Decorate bars with white icing or gels, if desired. Makes 12 (3-inch) hearts.

DECADENT CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES

3 cups (18 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips

1 can (14 ounces) original OR creamy chocolate sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated milk)

1 tablespoon vanilla

Finely chopped toasted nuts, flaked coconut, chocolate OR colored sprinkles, unsweetened cocoa powder, powdered sugar OR colored sugars

In a saucepan, over low heat, melt chips with sweetened condensed milk. Remove from heat; stir in vanilla.

Chill 2 hours or until firm.

Shape into 1-inch balls; roll in any of coatings. Chill 1 hour or until firm. Store tightly covered. Makes about 6 dozen truffles.

HUG ME CHOCOLATES

1 package (8 ounces) semisweet baking chocolate

1 cup slivered almonds, toasted

1 cup dried tart cherries

Break up chocolate and put in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave on high power 2 minutes, stirring halfway through heating time. Stir until chocolate is completely melted.

Add almonds and dried cherries; mix until completely coated with chocolate.

Drop by teaspoonfuls onto wax paper. Refrigerate until firm. Makes 2 dozen.

BE MINE CHERRY CAKE

4 cups miniature marshmallows (about 3/4 of a 10.5-ounce package)

1 package (18.25 ounces) yellow cake mix

1 can (21 ounces) cherry pie filling and topping

Spray a 13x9x2-inch baking pan with vegetable spray.

Put marshmallows evenly in bottom of pan.

Prepare cake mix according to package directions. Pour batter over marshmallows. Spoon cherry pie filling evenly over cake batter.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 30 to 35 minutes, or until cake tests done. Makes about 15 servings.

NOTE: Marshmallows melt and rise to top, making a tasty glaze on cake; icing is not necessary.

MARBLED CHEESECAKE HEARTS

2 cups finely crushed cream-filled chocolate sandwich cookies (about 24 cookies)

3 tablespoons butter OR margarine, melted

3 packages (8 ounces EACH) cream cheese, softened

1 can (14 ounces) sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated milk)

3 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla

2 squares (1 ounce EACH) unsweetened chocolate, melted

Line a 13x9-inch baking pan with heavy foil; set aside.

Combine crumbs and butter; mix well. Press firmly on bottom of foil-lined pan.

With a mixer, beat cream cheese in a large bowl until fluffy. Gradually beat in sweetened condensed milk until smooth. Add eggs and vanilla; mix well. Pour 1/2 of batter evenly over prepared crust.

Stir melted chocolate into remaining batter; spoon over vanilla batter. With a table knife or metal spatula, gently swirl chocolate batter through vanilla batter to marble.

Bake in preheated 300-degree oven 45 minutes to 50 minutes or until set.

Cool. Chill at least 1 hour. Use foil to lift out of pan.

For hearts, cut with a heart-shaped cookie cutter, or with a knife, cut around wax paper heart shape. Or cut into bars. Store covered in refrigerator. Makes about 12 (3-inch) hearts.

CHOCOLATE FONDUE SUPREME

1 pound bittersweet OR semisweet chocolate

1 cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons rum

1 bunch seedless grapes

1 pint fresh strawberries

Fresh raspberries

Fruit slices

Cut up pound cake and rolled cookies

In a 2-quart glass bowl, combine chocolate and cream. Heat in microwave oven on high power 2 to 2 1/2 minutes or longer, until mixture is smooth and melted when stirred. Heat 1 to 1 1/2 minutes longer, or until warm throughout. Stir in rum.

Transfer to a fondue pot and keep warm OR serve in serving bowls or in individual cups.

Arrange fruit, pound cake and cookies attractively on a serving platter. To serve, have guests, using fondue forks, dip fruit, cake or cookies as desired into warm chocolate. Makes 2 1/2 cups fondue, enough for 8 servings.

From ``365 Great Chocolate Desserts,'' by Natalie Haughton, HarperCollins.

SWEETHEART COOKIES

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/4 cups quick OR old-fashioned uncooked oats 

1 tablespoon grated lemon peel (about 2 large lemons)

1 teaspoon baking soda 

1 teaspoon salt

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) butter OR margarine, softened

1 cup granulated sugar 

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 teaspoon vanilla

2/3 cup seedless raspberry preserves

Powdered sugar

In a medium bowl, combine flour, oats, lemon peel, baking soda and salt; mix well.

In a large bowl, beat butter and granulated sugar with an electric mixer until creamy. Add egg and vanilla; continue beating until light and fluffy. Stir in oat mixture; mix well.

Cover and chill at least 1 hour.

Divide dough into quarters; work with one quarter at a time, keeping remaining dough refrigerated.

Roll dough on a lightly floured surface to 1/8-inch thickness. Cut with a floured 2 1/2-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter. Use a 1-inch heart-shaped cookie cutter to cut out a hole from center of half of hearts. Reroll and cut scraps.

Arrange cookies 1-inch apart on ungreased cookie sheets. Repeat with remaining dough.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 8 to 10 minutes or until light golden brown. Cool 1 minute on cookie sheets. Remove to a wire rack; cool completely.

To assemble cookies, spread 1 teaspoon preserves in center of each solid cookie. Lightly sprinkle cookies with cutouts with powdered sugar. Place sugar covered cookies, sugar-side up, on top of cookies with preserves.

Serve cookies within 1 day or freeze for longer storage. Makes about 2 1/2 dozen.

NOTE: If desired, omit powdered sugar. Drizzle melted dark or white chocolate over cookies with cutouts.

CHOCOLATE SATIN PIE

1 can (12 fluid ounces) evaporated milk (1 1/2 cups)

2 egg yolks

1 package (12 ounces) semisweet chocolate chips (2 cups)

1 (6-ounce) prepared 8-inch graham cracker crust

Whipped cream

Chopped nuts (optional)

Whisk together evaporated milk and egg yolks in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture is very hot and thickens slightly; do not boil.

Remove from heat; stir in chocolate chips until completely melted and mixture is smooth.

Pour into crust; chill 3 hours or until firm. Top with whipped cream before serving; sprinkle with nuts. Makes 1 pie.

RASPBERRY-CHERRY PIE

CRUST:

1 package (15 ounces) refrigerated pie crusts OR pastry for a 2-crust pie

FILLING:

2 cups fresh OR frozen whole raspberries (do not thaw)

1/4 to 1/2 cup sugar

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 can (21 ounces) cherry fruit pie filling

Prepare pie crust for 2-crust pie using a 9-inch pan.

For Filling, in a large bowl, combine all filling ingredients, stir gently to mix. Spoon into crust-lined pan. Top with second crust; seal edges and flute. Cut slits or shapes in several places in top crust.

Bake in preheated 400-degree oven 40 to 45 minutes or until crust is golden brown and filling is bubbly. (Place on a baking sheet on lowest oven rack during baking to guard against spillage.) Makes 8 servings.

From ``Pillsbury Best Desserts.'' The Pillsbury Co., Clarkson Potter.

PEPPERMINT PARTY CHEESECAKE

CRUST:

1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs (24 squares)

1/4 cup magarine OR butter

FILLING:

3 packages (8 ounces EACH) cream cheese, softened

1 cup sugar

4 eggs

1 1/2 cups dairy sour cream

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon peppermint extract 

2 to 3 drops red food color

For Crust, in a medium bowl, combine crust ingredients; mix well. Press in bottom of an ungreased 10-inch springform pan.

For Filling, in a large bowl, combine cream cheese and sugar; beat until light and fluffy. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition. Add sour cream and vanilla; blend well. Place 1 cup mixture in a small bowl; stir in peppermint extract and food color. Pour remaining cream cheese mixture into crust-lined pan.

Drop spoonfuls of peppermint mixture over cream cheese mixture. Pull a knife randomly through batter in wide curves; turn pan and repeat for swirl effect.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 50 to 60 minutes or until center is set. (To minimize cracking, place shallow pan half full of hot water on lower oven rack during baking.) Cool in pan on a wire rack 1 hour or until completely cooled. Refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.

Just before serving, carefully remove sides of pan. Garnish as desired. Store in refrigerator. Makes 16 servings.

From ``Pillsbury Best Desserts.'' The Pillsbury Co., Clarkson Potter.

FUDGY ORANGE CAPPUCCINO TORTE

BROWNIE:

1 package (1 pound 3.5 ounces) fudge brownie mix

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup orange-flavored liqueur OR orange juice

2 eggs

1 teaspoon grated orange peel

4 ounces sweet dark chocolate OR semisweet baking chocolate, coarsely chopped

FILLING:

1 cup sweetened condensed milk (NOT evaporated)

6 ounces sweet dark chocolate OR semisweet baking chocolate, chopped

2 egg yolks, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur OR orange juice

3/4 cup finely chopped nuts

TOPPING:

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

3/4 cup powdered sugar

1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

2 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur OR orange juice

1 teaspoon grated orange peel

1/8 teaspoon salt

GARNISH:

Orange slices, twisted, if desired

Orange leaves, if desired

Grease bottom only of a 9- or 10-inch springform pan.

For Brownie, in a large bowl, combine all brownie ingredients except 4 ounces chocolate. Beat 50 strokes with spoon. Stir in chocolate. Spread in greased pan.

Bake in preheated 350-degree oven 35 to 45 minutes or until center is set. Cool on a wire rack 1 1/2 hours or until completely cooled.

For Filling, in a medium saucepan, combine condensed milk and 6 ounces chocolate. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. Remove from heat.

Stir 2 tablespoons hot mixture into egg yolks. Gradually stir yolk mixture into hot mixture in saucepan. Cook over medium heat 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from heat.

Stir in 2 tablespoons liqueur and nuts. Refrigerate just until cool, about 25 minutes.

Spread cooled filling mixture over top of cooled brownie. Refrigerate at least 1 hour or until filling is set.

To serve, run a knife around sides of pan to loosen; remove sides of pan. Place brownie on a serving plate.

For Topping, in a large bowl, combine all topping ingredients; beat at low speed until blended. Beat at high speed until stiff peaks form.

Pipe or spoon topping mixture evenly over chilled filling.

Garnish with orange slices and leaves. Store in refrigerator. Makes 16 servings.

From ``Pillsbury Best Desserts.'' The Pillsbury Co., Clarkson Potter.

CHOCOLATE COCONUT TART

1 cup dark corn syrup

1/4 cup sugar

4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

3 eggs

Pinch salt

2 tablespoons white rum

1 bag (7 ounces) sweetened shredded coconut

Dark Sweet Chocolate Dough (recipe follows), lining a buttered 9- or 10-inch tart pan, unbaked 

Combine corn syrup and sugar in a saucepan and stir well to mix. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil. Off heat, stir in chocolate and butter until melted.

In a mixing bowl, whisk together eggs, salt and rum. Whisk in chocolate mixture until smooth. Stir in coconut.

Scrape filling into prepared Dark Sweet Chocolate Dough crust and smooth top.

Bake on a rack in lower third of preheated 350-degree oven about 40 to 45 minutes, until well risen and firm. Cool on a rack.

Unmold tart and serve with sweetened whipped cream on side. Makes 1 (9- or 10-inch) tart, about 8 servings.

NOTE: Keep leftovers covered at room temperature.

From ``Chocolate: From Simple Cookies to Extravagant Showstoppers'' by Nick Malgieri, HarperCollins.

DARK SWEET CHOCOLATE DOUGH

1 cup all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons alkalized (Dutch process) cocoa powder, sifted after measuring

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 10 pieces

1 large egg

In a food processor, combine flour, sugar, cocoa, salt and baking powder in a work bowl and pulse several times to mix.

Add butter to work bowl. Pulse to mix butter in completely. When butter is incorporated correctly there should be no visible chunks of butter, but mixture should remain cool and powdery.

Beat egg with a fork and add to work bowl. Pulse until dough forms a ball. If dough does not easily form a ball, add 1/2 teaspoon water, repeating if necessary, until it does.

Remove dough from processor, press into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill dough until firm or up to several days before using. Makes right amount of dough for any 1-crust 9-inch pie.

From ``Chocolate: From Simple Cookies to Extravagant Showstoppers'' by Nick Malgieri, HarperCollins.

CAPTION(S):

7 Photos

Photo: (1--5--Color) Set your valentine aglow with a tempting array of sweets, clockwise from top, Sweetheart Puff, Marbled Cheesecake Hearts, Chocolate Raspberry Cream Cheese Pie, Triple Chocolate Valentine Brownies, Decadent Chocolate Truffles and Chocolate Fondue Supreme.

(6) Heart-shaped Sweetheart Cookies, flavored with lemon peel and raspberry preserves, say it all.

(7) Chocolate Satin Pie is easy to make for your special someone.