HEART-Y INDIAN FARE.

Byline: LARRY LIPSON

>RESTAURANT CRITIC

The new Heart of India Cafe in Sherman Oaks has reverted to basic, familiar Indian fare rather than the interesting and sometimes unusual food found at its predecessor, Tufaan.

But even with this somewhat safe direction, such beginnings as onion bhaji ($2.99) and fish pakora ($5.99) fail to measure up to competitors' renditions.

Peculiarly, these two appetizer items appear amazingly alike. Usually, onion bhaji comes forth looking like a few small balls of deep-fried, lightly battered onion strings or one large ball of the same. It may vary in its exterior crispness.

Heart of India's version is soft and small, utilizing chopped rather than string onions, dipped in chickpea batter.

And each diminutive fish pakora looked just like the bhaji, with the fish dipped in the same batter and similarly fried.

Consequently, you really have to bite into each one to tell the difference.

Meat samosas ($3.49) don't rate much better. The cone-shaped dough stuffed with a ground lamb, onion and pea mixture, lack moisture, needing to be dipped into a sweet, tamarind chutney that accompanies it.

The best starter by far here is the well-seasoned tomato soup ($2.99), several notches more vibrant and flavorful than the house mulligatawny soup ($3.99). The latter actually has a bit of a blandness problem.

Of the entree options, tandoori chicken (half $7.99, full $12.99) improves the kitchen's respectability but fails to evoke any oohs and aahs.

Chicken vindaloo ($9.99), though of fair taste, arrives as a bright red-toned curry. Originally from Goa, this normally extra-spicy curry is remembered as usually being brownish in hue.

Although mutton actually refers to sheep meat, many Indian kitchens use goat for their mutton dishes. Heart of India cooks a creamy yogurt-based curried goat item called mutton korma ($10.99) that might please purists but is unlikely to become a hit item due to the natural oiliness and slight gaminess of goat meat.

More likely to be ordered is one of the chef's specialties, lamb tikka masala ($10.99), another creamy curry offering, this time pinkish-red in color from the prescribed use of tomatoes.

Tandoor oven breads, both naans and parathas ($1.99 to $3.99), indicate baking skill, raita ($2.99) is refreshing, the basmati rice ($2.99) has no noticeable flaws, and vegetable dishes like matter paneer ($8.99), the pea and cheese mixture, pass muster.

If you're worried about mega-sugary Indian desserts, the carrot pudding ($2.49) here provides a gratifying, mildly sweet ending.

At its best: Heart of India has a roomy, comfortable environment where passable Indian food, reasonably priced, fairly portioned, can be enjoyed. Hearty eaters can take advantage of its lunch buffet special, priced at $7.99.

Could be better: Starters should improve with a little more attention to classic preparation techniques.

HEART OF INDIA CAFE - Two stars

>Details: 4523 Sepulveda Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily, to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Alcohol license pending. [phone]. www.heartofindiacafe.com.

>Cost: Starters from $3 to $9, entrees from $9 to $15, desserts: $2.49 each.

>Noteworthy: No alcohol license yet. Unsweetened lassi, a yogurt drink, provides a refreshing alternative to a cool Indian beer.

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Photo:

Heart of India Cafe in Sherman Oaks is family owned and operated by chef Manjit Singh, center. His sons Sethi, left, and Sunny, right, manage and run the restaurant.

JOHN LAZAR>LA.COM