HEALTHY CAN BE TASTY, TOO.

Byline: Steven Pratt Special to the Daily News

When it comes down to it, a healthful, nutritious diet really depends on who is doing the cooking.

How do you find enough variety to keep family members interested without stuffing them with fat- or calorie-laden dishes? How do you provide a concentrated balance of nutrients without appearing to feed them health foods?

It takes some work and experimentation. There are plenty of health-oriented cookbooks to peruse. But most good home cooks learn to transform what they find in the fridge into delicious meals.

One of the best ways to make healthful food is through soups and sauces, which can include a variety of ingredients and lose few nutrients during preparation.

The secret of good-tasting soups and sauces begins with a rich stock. Stock can come from a powder base, bouillon cubes or cans, all available from supermarkets (look for low-sodium, low-fat styles). Or it can be a brawny homemade broth made with simmered bones, meat scraps and vegetables (skim the fat and don't add salt). Combining prepared and homemade versions is not unheard of.

Here are three nutrient-dense recipes made with seasonal vegetables that have a high concentration of complex carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, phytochemicals and fiber. They are especially high in beta carotene, which the body turns into vitamin A. They also are low in fat, have reasonable sodium content and are relatively easy to make.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND CARROT SOUP

This recipe is adapted from one that appeared in the ``Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Library: Vegetarian'' cookbook. It is a gold mine of beta carotene with the squash and carrots and also contains calcium and minerals from the yogurt and lots of vitamin C from the fresh lime juice.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large yellow onion, chopped

1 jalapeno chile, seeded and chopped

1 butternut squash (about 1 1/4 pounds) peeled, halved, seeded and coarsely chopped

3 large carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon paprika 

1 1/4 teaspoons ground cumin 

3/4 teaspoon EACH ground turmeric and ground coriander 

6 cups vegetable, chicken stock OR water

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 teaspoon water

1/2 cup plain nonfat yogurt

1/3 cup OR more chopped fresh cilantro, including stems

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

Heat olive oil in a 4-quart soup pot over medium-low heat. Add onion and jalapeno. Cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 5 minutes.

Add squash, carrots and sugar; cook, stirring, 10 minutes. Add paprika, cumin, turmeric and coriander; continue cooking, stirring, 10 more minutes. Add stock and heat to boiling over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered until squash and carrots are soft, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Working with 2 cups of soup at a time, place in a blender and puree on high speed until very smooth and light, about 3 minutes. Keep blender lid slightly ajar or hot soup will build up pressure and splash out. As each batch is pureed, transfer to a large saucepan. If soup is too thick, thin with a little water until consistency of heavy cream.

Place soup over medium-high heat and warm to serving temperature. Stir in cilantro and lime juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk water into yogurt until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into warmed bowls and drizzle with yogurt. Add cilantro and lime juice. Makes 6 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 145 calories; 6 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 810 milligrams sodium.

SWEET POTATO AND BEET SALAD

This recipe was adapted from one in Dean Ornish's book ``Eat More, Weigh Less.'' Sweet potatoes are very high in beta carotene and vitamin C. Beets supply folic acid, potassium and magnesium.

1 pound small beets, scrubbed

Water

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 small cucumber, peeled and seeded

6 green onions, finely chopped

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon EACH sugar and salt

1/2 teaspoon EACH dry mustard and black pepper

1 cup nonfat yogurt

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill (optional)

Trim leaves from beets but leave about 1-inch of stem. Place in a medium saucepan; cover with cold water and heat to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer covered, about 40 minutes. Drain and cover with lukewarm water. When cool, cut off stems, slip peels from beets. Set aside.

Heat oil over medium heat in a medium nonstick fry pan. Add sweet potatoes; cook until crisp-tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Cut cucumber and beets into small chunks. Combine with onions and potatoes in a medium bowl.

Whisk together vinegar, sugar, salt, dry mustard and pepper in a small bowl. Stir in yogurt. Pour over vegetables; toss to coat. Sprinkle with dill. Makes 4 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 290 calories; 1 grams fat; 64 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 1 milligrams cholesterol; 695 milligrams sodium.

PUMPKIN RISOTTO 

Pumpkins are packed with beta carotene and fiber. Don't overlook the health benefits of garlic and onions, which are loaded with phytochemicals.

6 cups low-fat chicken stock

1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 yellow onions, chopped

1 small cooking pumpkin OR butternut squash, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 bulb fresh fennel, chopped

2 cups arborio rice

Salt and pepper to taste

1/4 cup Parmesan cheese (optional)

Heat stock in a medium saucepan to a simmer; keep simmering throughout operation.

Heat oil in a heavy saucepan. Add onions and garlic; cook until soft, 5 to 6 minutes, do not brown. Add pumpkin and fennel; cover and cook until pumpkin is softened, 5 to 10 minutes. If it starts to brown or burn, add a little stock.

Add rice; stir well. Stir in about 1 cup stock; when absorbed, add more, stirring constantly. Keep rice well-moistened, adding more liquid as it is absorbed. Cook until mixture is thick and rice is tender but firm.

Remove from pan; add salt and pepper to taste. Add cheese. Serve immediately. Makes 6 servings.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 345 calories; 4 grams fat; 63 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams protein; 0 milligrams cholesterol; 785 milligrams sodium.