HEAD TO TEXAS - BUT GET THERE EARLY.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

WE PROMISED to return to eat the deep-fried Twinkies.

``You must try them,'' we were told as we departed with almost a whole house-baked peach-berry cobbler ($4.95), big enough to share among a foursome.

But when we came back the next evening to the Swinging Door B-B-Q in North Hollywood, there were no Twinkies.

The reason: Only one deep fryer in the small kitchen, and that was being used to cook french fries.

That basically tells the story of this tiny new rustic eatery at the back of a gas station; expect good smoky barbecued food, sometimes limited to what's left, and don't expect to be able to order any item that's printed on the menu.

One night, there were no baby backs left.

Another time, the kitchen had run out of the ``traditional Texas'' pork links.

And when a Caesar salad was requested, the answer was, ``Sorry, we don't make 'em anymore. Too few had been ordered.''

I can understand the kitchen running out of baby back ribs less than an hour before closing.

Only so many slabs are slow-cooked each day.

And there are also other good enough reasons why a restaurant cannot meet its menu promises.

But I believe customers should always be told in advance of their ordering.

Never afterward.

Why go through the decision-making process of what to eat, and then be told you can't have it?

But that doesn't alter the cooking skill factor. And the Swinging Door kitchen definitely knows how to make a tasty barbecue meal.

Whether it's seasoned tri-tip, smoky beef brisket, slow-smoked chicken, meaty beef ribs, spicy Louisiana-style links or the popular baby backs, the combo plates (one through five meats with two through five sides, $8.50 to $19.95) are, for the most part, very satisfying.

Side dishes include a respectable macaroni and cheese bowl and pots of chili-flavored ranch beans or smoky, sweet, bacon-flavored barbecued beans.

Additional options are a fairly good slaw and a creamy potato salad, plus you'll get warm, garlic-glazed rolls with any combo plate order.

Potatoes and fries ($2 to $4.25) can also be had as a la carte offerings.

Take note that the Swinging Door is a quasi-self-service place where you're expected to place your order at the kitchen counter, where the cash register sits.

If you're a late customer (before the 8:30 p.m. closing) like I've been, you'll sometimes receive some initial table service. But evidently this isn't the norm.

The narrow dining area holds only six tables; outside are five more.

And remember, the Swinging Door stops swinging as early as 5 p.m. on Saturdays.

I suggest a telephone call before coming by to see what's cooking. Especially if you have a burning desire to try the deep-fried Twinkies.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

SWINGING DOOR TEXAS B-B-Q

www.swingingdoorbbq.com

Food: Three stars - Service: One star - Value: Two and one half stars

Where: 11018 Vanowen St., North Hollywood.

Phone: [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, from 11:30 to 5 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Food type: American.

Cost: Sandwiches $6.50 and $6.95, sides from $2 to $3.25, main items from $5.50 to $19.95, desserts from $1.75 to $4.95.

Credit cards: AE, MC, V, Discover.

Patio dining: Five outdoor tables.

Parking/valet: Free parking in adjacent slots and gas station spaces.

Full bar: No liquor.

Wine/corkage: No license.

Music/entertainment: Background recorded country music.

Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout. Delivery service still in planning stages.

Reservations: First come, first served.

CAPTION(S):

3 photos

Photo:

(1) Swinging Door Texas B-B-Q serves up a tender, flavorful tri-tip sandwich that comes with a choice of side dishes.

(2) Tender, falling-off-the-bones baby back ribs, pictured here with the ranch beans, are a favorite ...

(3) ... but dine early because the tiny North Hollywood restaurant sometimes runs out of this popular menu item.

Joel Lugavere/Special to the Daily News