HEAD OF THE CLASS FALL FASHION TAKES SOME EDUCATED TWISTS AND TURNS.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Fashion Editor

Big kids, little kids, campus trendies and college jocks are all heading back to school with the same idea of campus cool.

No prissy or preppy ensembles for Fall 2000. Just textbook classics such as denim jeans and jackets, plus parkas and nylon tech pants that rip and zip to hold electronic gadgets, '70s-inspired sweaters, and python pleather/leather print skirts and pants - all well-grounded with oversized sneakers or clunky footwear, according to retailers at numerous fashion outposts.

At the head of the class this year is Robinsons-May, the department store chain that launched a special in-store boutique called The Spot this week that's aimed at Generation Y shoppers.

Fashion director Milinda Martin says Generation Y (those kids born between 1979 and 1994) are 60 million strong and reflect the second-biggest baby boom since 1946. ``According to our demographic information, the greatest curve is the age group born between 1987 and 1992, so we see this fashion area of continued importance ... but we're not going to have teen boards like baby boomers may recall in the '60s at May Company stores. It's a different mindset today,'' Martin explains, referring to the teens chosen in the '60s to help with then-fashion events and pictured at the stores.

So far, the Spot's best sellers are pants and skirts in pleather (synthetic leather), particularly in basic black or red, plus prints and patchwork. ``But the hottest ticket,'' says Martin, ``is Tommy Hilfiger's patchwork jacket for girls that epitomizes the '70s retro mood that teens are craving.''

Crocheted sweaters are still going strong, but for the local climate where fall doesn't start until December, Martin says the popular choice is a cotton knit top worn sleeveless in offbeat '70s shades (think mustard and brown), paired with either pleather or iridescent denim.

When it comes to guys' pants, nylon pants upstage denim, Martin says. ``We call it the California convertible, because the pants can be converted to shorts with a rip or zip, and they're being topped with camp shirts in plaid, or tropical camp prints worn open over T-shirts. The must-have labels? It's L.A. companies such as Guess? and Quiksilver, but Ralph Lauren's Polo and Tommy Hilfiger are still carrying clout with the over-12 crowd.''

Op, a California lifestyle company that has its own Web site and online store, has also zeroed in on Generation Y and its love of skateboarding, cell-confabs and vintage looks. ``Op's new fall collection,'' says design director Nat Norfleet, ``is big on retro/floral/rayon camp shirts, quilted zip-front vests and nylon blend full-zip snowboard style jackets with neo-retro striping, flap pockets and embroidered logos for the boys, while girls prefer feminity and function in bright blues, red, yellows, with hip, low-waist nylon trail pants and boat-or V-neck tops, worn with micro-fiber skorts.''

Having trouble translating? Think of basic parkas with extras (bells and whistles), miniskirts with built-in shorts, last year's cargo pocket pants, with traditional corduroy pants and plaid shirts for the under-12 lunch-bunch brigade.

Denim - plain, coated, embroidered or cut into overalls - is still a staple of the back-to-school wardrobe. Says Mervyn's spokeswoman Kate Rice, ``The big trend is dark denim, whether it's a zip-off style for boys or embellished boot-cut jeans for girls. And both are wearing dark denim jackets with front-slash pockets and contrast stitching over fleece pullovers and basic crew or V-neck T-shirts.'' The vest-and-tee-combo, reports Rice, is also a favorite in warmer regions, as the layers can be removed as the day warms up.

At JC Penney stores, denim is still soft and faded, often in a baggy stonewashed fabric, with carpenter details in the guys' department, while girls are going for denim that's got enough stretch to flaunt curves and a flare at the hemline to show off clunky high-heeled boots.

Hip-hugger jeans, jeans cut above the ankle or just below the knee, jeans in khaki or deep indigo continue to be strong looks in the denim department, reports Norman Karr, spokesman for the nationwide Jeanswear Communications newsletter, but the big news is jeans with pockets to carry cell phones, beepers and the all-important personal CD player. And when it comes to the new-again denim jacket, Karr says it's the sleeveless style and the longer, belted jean jacket that have the most edge.

The fabric of the wild, wild west is also the big seller at Target stores, says spokeswoman Melissa Sheets. Target calls its back-to-school fashion stance ``alternative west,'' and Sheets describes it as a classic cowboy-inspired look in dark nonstretch denim jeans and jackets worn with cowboy hats. ``There's a twist, though, with girls sporting hats accented with fuchsia trim and bare tie-back tank tops under the jackets, while guys are wearing those '50s plaid shirts with the pearlized snaps down the front.''

Like other retailers, Target has also stocked up on nylon ski-wear looks, including micro-fleece vests which are turning out to be a colorful must-have for all ages, fine-gauge sweaters and fitted black leather jackets.

Although leopard and zebra prints are looking sooo last year, several stores including Target are showing the furry fabric in younger girls' accessories such as headbands, wrist bands and watches, backpacks and even cell phone totes.

With three-digit temperatures still soaring in the Southland, most students are still wearing sandals, but come September the school yard favorite remains ripple-soled sneakers. Skechers, Nike and Vans are among the status labels. Fresher looks include chunky-heeled boots (ankle or knee-high) for girls and lug-soled suede oxfords for boys.

As some schools eliminate lockers, many students are literally booking (or biking) it back to school with hikers' backpacks and backpacks on wheels that look like plane luggage. Brands such as JanSport, Nike and Adidas are the big names among fans, but trendies are trying other brands and styles, including Op's new flap-pocket messenger bag, roomy enough for a calculator-clipboard combo or lap top, or they're cramming their stuff into those hip bowling bag totes available at junior fashion boutiques.

How to rule your school As the fall semester looms on the calendar, savvy students have already studied up on the season's must-haves:

Colors: It's all about autumn brights like red and mustard, but '70s shades of olive green and earth are in. And the girls still aren't ready to give up summer's fuchsia and orange.

Prints: Plaid (little checks are big) and python are getting the best grades, but leopard and zebra are making the grade in small doses (think accessories like headbands, belts and cell phone cases).

Leather/pleather: The real thing or the synthetic fake is big news in basic black or brights. Look for it in snug jeans, skirts and fitted jackets.

Denim: It's the schoolyard fave, but looks newest in dark indigo, (sometimes stretchy) and often riding low on the hips. Boot flares are a must, and so is a matching jacket.

Fleece vests: They add color and warmth and look best with denim or leather ensembles, worn with a plaid T-shirt.

Nylon tech pants: The ski-inspired pant that Old Navy introduced us to last year is still styling, with those rip-away legs that go from long to short. This semester the pants have even more zippered pockets for cell phones, pagers and CD players.

V-necks: Hoodies are out and V-necks and classic crew necklines are back in focus, especially in crocheted sweaters and cotton T-shirts.

Accessories: For girls it's hoop earrings, decorative wrist bands, gradient-tinted aviator glasses (very '70s), lariat necklaces, stacks of gold bangle bracelets, shoulder duster earrings (for older teens), and bowling bag purses (that can also serve as lunch boxes). For the guys, it's clean and simple without the chains and earrings parents screamed about last year. Cowboy hats, messenger bags, aviator glasses and electronic gadgets are the budget breakers, as well as a fold-up scooter that's upstaging skates and skateboards.

CAPTION(S):

10 photos, box

Photo: (1 -- 4 -- color) A bright top makes the perfect complement to python-print pants ($19.99) from T.J. Maxx. Target carries accessories such as a leopard-print notebook ($4.99), heeled boots ($29.99) and a performance vest ($17.99).

(5 -- color) Tech pants, from Target ($19.99), feature functional pockets, toggles, hidden closures, and zip-off details.

(6 -- color) Target's denim jacket ($24.99) is a timeless classic that pairs up with any outfit nicely.

(7 -- color) Rocket 898 teams up a sky-blue cardigan ($44) with a geisha-girl skirt ($36), while a multistriped V-neck ($36) packs a colorful punch with embroidered pants ($36).

(8 -- 9 -- color) Op updates the basics for elementary school boys with a batik camp print shirt ($27) layered over a white T-shirt with a screen print ($13) and navy nylon pants, ($31), and for girls, a two-tone crewneck sweater ($32) worn with flared jeans with a frayed hem ($30). Bigger kid sport a fleece sweatshirt ($48) and long-sleeve tee ($22) with tech pants tha have a vented knee detail ($46) along with a sporty bag ($32), while a micro-fiber jacket ($46) is layered over a top ($28) and a utility skort ($30) with a messenger bag ($27) for her.

(10) Unionbay offers all the latest innovations in denim, including a 20-inch wide-leg steet jean, a 5-pocket flared cargo fit and a low-rider bell bettom to wear with graphic-logoed tees.

Box: How to rule your school (see text)