HAWAIIAN PUNCH ROY YAMAGUCHI'S NEW WOODLAND HILLS VENTURE SHOWS PROMISE - IF YOU CAN GET A TABLE.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

EVERY STAFFER, and there seems to be an endless number of them at the new Roy's in Woodland Hills, smiles graciously and says ``Aloha'' as you wend your way to your table.

They don't have to present you with a lei for you to realize there's a strong connection to Hawaii here.

Roy, of course, is Roy Yamaguchi, one of L.A.'s original celebrity chefs of the '80s, who left town after his ambitious 385 North restaurant failed to explode into the huge hit most foodies expected, and took his talents to Hawaii.

There, his Hawaiian fusion fare zoomed him to the prosperity and artistic acceptance that had ultimately eluded him here.

Now, with the backing of the Outback Steakhouse people, he returns - not to the Westside but to the suburbs of L.A. His latest Roy's is the 30th of the upscale international chain.

Forget all the Hawaiian or Polynesian restaurants of yesteryear. Roy's doesn't look anything like those full-foliage, quasi-Cantonese and mai tai havens.

Yes, of course there are tiki torches in front. But the interior doesn't overload you with bogus South Seas decor; it's classy yet colorful, spacious and warm.

But this restaurant isn't that hunky dory as far as getting there or scoring a table. It has been very busy since its Feb. 3 debut. And securing a reservation doesn't make the navigation to its doorway any easier.

If you're approaching Roy's from the east on Victory Boulevard, you have to make a left hand turn at Topanga Canyon Boulevard, then double back past the restaurant and enter a small driveway, turn right and drive past another building up to the entrance for your car to be valet parked for a $5 fee. But if you are willing to walk around to the front of the building, there is plenty of parking nearby.

Once seated, you'll receive a detailed explanation from the waiter or waitress. Basically you'll discover that Roy's menu varies daily, but there are certain Yamaguchi-inspired dishes that remain fixtures.

Don't expect smooth sailing yet. The open kitchen appears rather chaotic if you're seated near it. A constant throng of waiting servers look awkward as the kitchen strives to serve up Roy's prettily arranged, sometimes complex dishes.

Luckily, at an initial visit, a late dinner reservation precluded long waits and cold food. It allowed us to enjoy the better aspects of Roy's three-course prix fixe ($33) and an a la carte meal of a dim sum-style lobster dumpling dish ($12) and Roy's signature blackened ahi entree ($27).

Yes, there was a wait at the bar where a call vodka drink cost $10. And one of the more moderately priced bottles of wine ($34) ordered from the extensive list proved to be a later vintage than that shown.

But the slow-cooked, boneless beef short ribs on the prix-fixe were unquestionably delicious and generously portioned, even though an appetizer sampler dish (shrimp stick, baby-back rib, seafood-stuffed wontons) wasn't particularly thrilling.

Roy's seared ahi arrives with a spicy rub and sits in a spicy soy butter sauce. Be prepared for spicy hot food here.

The soufflelike flourless chocolate cake bursting with a center of melted chocolate from the three-course prix-fixe provides a neat, sweet ending.

So do some of the other desserts, like a sugary macadamia nut caramel tart, a nutty-flavored chocolate torte and a fruity napoleon creation ($7 each) ordered at a second visit and shared by a foursome.

On this occasion, the appetizers overshadowed the entrees. A jumbo Dungeness crab cake concoction ($14), tender battered calamari ($9), a lush sushi sampling ($21) and the handsome Maui-wowee shrimp salad ($11) with avocado, capers and feta cheese in a lemony dressing started the evening well.

But it was downhill afterward when, after a longish wait, three of four entrees arrived tepid.

Yet, even when a second attempt to relay a warm-enough rice portion failed, it couldn't completely negate the basic tastiness of Roy's miso- baked butterfish ($26), reminiscent of the superb black cod offering at tiny Yamakawa in Toluca Lake.

And what could have been a superior rack of lamb plate ($26) was spoiled by its accompanying array of cold vegetables. And grilled yellowtail ($25) came forth cool and somewhat dry.

However, there was absolutely nothing wrong with the fire-grilled filet mignon steak ($29), delivered thick, tender, juicy ... and thankfully warm.

Roy's, hot in some ways already, should undoubtedly be a hit here for years to come, even when the novelty of Yamaguchi's return and its adventurous suburban debut wears off.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

ROY'S

Food: Three stars - Service: Two star - Wine: Two stars

Where: 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills.

Hours: Open for dinner and cocktails only, from 5 to 9 p.m. Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Recommended items: Shrimp salad, sushi sampler, calamari, crab cake, braised short ribs, rack of lamb, charred butterfish, fire-grilled filet mignon, chocolate souffle cake, macadamia nut caramel tart, choco-nut crunch torte, haupia napoleon.

How much: Starters from $6 to $21, entrees from $19 to $29, desserts mostly $7 each. Full bar. Major credit cards accepted.

Wine list: Multipage list has many excellent choices from around the globe but no apparent bargains. Offerings by the glass from $6 to $15. Very few, if any, bottles under $30. Corkage: $15.

Reservations: Needed. Call [phone].

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2) At Roy's in Woodland Hills, chef Blaine Villasin takes great care in preparing the restaurant's signature dishes, left, which includes the Maui-wowee shrimp salad held by executive chef Tom Voss, above.

Evan Yee/Staff Photographer