HAVE A KEBAB, COWBOY MESQUITE IN NORTHRIDGE GIVES A MIDDLE EASTERN ACCENT TO OLD-FASHIONED GRILLING.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

MESQUITE-COOKED KEBABS and steaks are the obvious draw at the new Mesquite restaurant in Northridge.

Mesquite resides in a remodeled onetime St. George's Smorgasbord complete with attractive Western-themed metal wall sculptures and presents food with a decidedly Middle Eastern accent despite a name that connotes all-American, barbecued, cowboy fare.

Mesquite wood is apparently used quite effectively in the grilling of 11 different kebabs, the best being juicy, slightly smoky, lightly seasoned lamb chops ($19.95) that are paired with a well-executed heap of rice pilaf or potato available three ways (mashed, baked, french fried).

In addition to the rice or potato choice an order of the lamb chop or any other dinnertime kebab or steak plate results in a crisp, fresh Greek salad starter.

The expected dips of hummus and babaganoush ($4.95 each), here of nice texture and both flavored with sesame, olive oil and garlic, provide one more way to begin a substantial meal at Mesquite.

The kitchen never falters in the kabob corral. Whether it's beef ($13.95) or pork ($11.95), chicken breast ($14.95) or ground beef ($11.95), even leg of lamb kebab ($13.95), all come through with flying colors, meaning flavorful, moist, well-textured and served warm enough.

Incidentally, all of the dishes noted above, except the lamb chops kebab, can be had at lunchtime for $7.99 with a house salad.

As for alternative beginnings, the kitchen makes lovely, tiny, Armenian beef-stuffed ravioli called ``manti.''

These tasty little tidbits are available in a seasoned yogurt broth as a satisfying bowl of manti soup ($5.95) or as a manti-filled large plate with a garlic yogurt sauce as a house special simply titled ``manti'' ($11.95) that can be enjoyed as a shareable appetizer or an individual pastalike entree.

For those who are familiar with the flaming Greek cheese dish known as saganaki, there's a fried holumi cheese offering here called ``yamatrasu'' ($8.95) that's slightly salty and makes you wish that Mesquite had its empty draft beer lines ready to pump out some cold brew (license pending).

As for endings, stick with Mesquite's fresh, wet-style ``baklava fingers'' ($3.99), the moist type of baklava that, to me, tastes so much better than the dry versions.

It's a sweet finale that even a cowboy could learn to love.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

MESQUITE

Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars

Where: 17068 Devonshire St., Northridge.

Hours: Open for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Babaganoush and hummus dips, Greek salad, any kebabs (especially the lamb chops kebab), manti Armenian ravioli (soup and plate), yamatrasu (fried holumi cheese), baklava fingers.

How much: Starters and salads from 95 cents to $19, entrees from $12 to $29, desserts $4 and $5. No alcohol (beer and wine license pending). All major credit cards.

Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served policy. Information: [phone].

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Photo:

Though you can't go wrong with any of the 11 kebab dishes at Mesquite in Northridge, the lamb chops (with rice pilaf and potatoes) are especially enjoyable.

Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer