Gruta Edhen. (Inside Eating Out).

Started by Lebanese immigrants in 1930, Gruta Edhen takes its name from a spring found in the country's northern region. Even without this snippet of history, the presence of Lebanese patrons hints at the restaurant's authenticity. Intimate yet open, with soft yellow and orange walls sporadically dotted with attractive paintings, the space lends itself to worry-free feasting--and it's a good thing, because this is an eating experience you don't want to rush.

We started off with the mezza botana, a selection of five appetizers to accompany the baskets of soft and toasted pita bread filling the table. Until I tried Gruta Edhen's, I thought humus was humus was humus. I'll never again underestimate the potential of this standard dish. Still, the humus couldn't hold a light to the baba ganouj: smoky flavored, savory eggplant that tempted me to leave the bread in the basket and clean out the bowl with my spoon. Those who had the foresight to spread a bit of jocoque on their bread before garnishing with the latter two dishes enjoyed an accentuated experience. The tapule brought the freshness to the table: a concentrated, tart salad that contrasted well with the lighter taste of the other appetizers. The kepe crudo was delicately delicious. Raw meat never tasted so good.

We were so stuffed and satisfied after the mezza that we almost felt guilty about ordering main courses, but no one regretted it once their dish arrived. Curious to try as much as I could, I ordered both the spinach empanadas and the Lebanese omelet. Coincidentally, they worked well together. In fact, the empanadas were a nice bread substitute to accompany what should not be considered a strictly-for-breakfast dish. Salty rather than sweet, the empanadas were light yet filling, with the spinach marinated in oil and spices. And who would have thought that parsley and mint could turn an onion omelet into something so refreshing and light. For meat heavyweights, there are the fried tripas filled with ground beef and rice. The carnivore's favorite of the evening, it would be an understatement to call this dish hearty, but what saved it from being overwhelming was the lack of excess oil.

One of the evening's tastiest surprises was shrimp kabob, (alambre de camaron) with gigantic shrimp (that must have just arrived from the coast) laced in a light, almost sweet, garlic sauce--without the error of drowning out the shrimp's natural flavor.

The laham bayin, chopped beef served with pinon nuts atop Arab bread, was a bit lower key than the other dishes, but nonetheless satisfying for those hamburger fans.

No matter how stuffed you think you are, order the chanklish: spheres of aged cheese covered in oregano. Whether or not you ask for it "preparado," with chile, onion and cilantro, be prepared for an exquisite cheese dish, rich enough to border on dessert.

And speaking of dessert, make a separate trip just to enjoy Gruta Edhen's variety with a sweet, albeit pricey, Cafe de Libano. The date cake was more like a condensed pie: smooth and layered with something that smacked of caramel. Order your own--it's too good to share.

The Belewe was very similar to baklavas--and the best one I've ever tried at that--but with a separate glaze drizzled over the top that perfectly capped the sweetness of the chewy nut layer.

Be sure to arrive at Gruta Edhen's with an appetite and a group of friends, as both the food and experience are best when shared.

Gruta Edhen

Lope de Vega 334

Between Horacio and Masaryk, Colonia Polanco

Seven days a week, 1 p.m. to 7 p.m.

Tel.: [phone]

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1-2 poor to fair

3-4 fair to good

5-7 good to very good

8-9 very good to excellent

10 extraordinary to perfection