Grape expectations: growers at one of the world's largest muscadine vineyards enjoy the fruits of their labors.

Upon landing on the shores of North Carolina in 1584, English explorer Sir Walter Raleigh's team observed how profusely a certain bronze and purple-black fruit was growing. Impressed by the discovery, they wrote, "... in all the world, the like abundance is not to be found." But long before Europeans arrived, Native Americans had been enjoying the tangy, pungent taste of this native fruit. Indigenous only to the Southeastern United States, Vitis rotundifolia, or the wild muscadine, has been cultivated for more than 400 years.

Although muscadines, also known as "scuppernongs," have been grown domestically since colonial times, it was not until the 1970s that significant numbers of commercial growers began to appear across the Southeast. The world's largest of these vineyards for the juice products market, and the second-largest in terms of acreage, is found in east-central Mississippi. Breckenridge Farms in Clarke County covers nearly 1,000 acres, with 300 acres under cultivation.

The vineyard's roots go back to 1986, when Meridian businessman Paul Broadhead initiated the multi-million-dollar project. At that time, horticulturists at Mississippi State University, as well as other major universities and USDA research stations, were developing varieties with specific characteristics and the endurance necessary for commercial success. More than 30 varieties have been tested at Mississippi Agricultural and Forestry Experiment Stations to determine their suitability for the fresh fruit market, non-fermented products, and wine. Breckenridge is host to seven varieties of both the bronze and red muscadine.

Real estate investor Charley Phillips had always been fascinated by the vineyard's operations, but his interest became more personal when the property was offered for sale in 2003. "From just knowing about the vineyard and the beauty of the landscape, I was interested from an outside standpoint," says Phillips. After assessing the vineyard's potential, he bought the farm and set his sights on growing the finest fruit possible.

Unlike bunch grapes, the muscadines cultivated at Breckenridge and around the region grow in small, loose clusters containing only about 6 to 24 berries. The berries ripen unevenly because of the long flowering season; therefore, each cluster may contain flower buds, flowers, and small berries all at the same time. Once established, the hearty muscadine is relatively disease- and insect-resistant and can withstand temporary periods of drought.

Sometimes referred to as the "passion fruit of the South," the muscadine is sold in many forms. Fresh fruit is available during the harvest season that runs from Labor Day into mid-October. "Last year, we sold more than 4,000 pounds of fresh fruit," Phillips recalls. The luscious berries are packed in 20-pound boxes and distributed to area supermarkets as well as to individual consumers.

There are many ways to enjoy whole fruit muscadines. At the top of the list is the all-American muscadine pie, enjoyed long before the arrival of Johnny Appleseed. Syrups for pancakes and glazes for bread pudding and cheesecake also make for novel treats. Traditional Indian recipes like "grape dumplings" add interest to the dinner table, and the incomparable flavor of the muscadine makes jams and jellies a great souvenir gift.

Specialty juices and wines make up a large part of the market. In spite of the ravages of Hurricane Katrina, nearly I million pounds of fruit were gathered at Breckenridge during the 2005 season. Gathering is done with a California-style grape harvester that gently removes the fruit. The sweet cargo is dropped from the harvester into one-ton boxes that are shipped overnight to Florida, where the berries are crushed and the skins and seeds are removed. The refrigerated juice is then distributed to processors who convert the sweet liquid into a host of products that are available from specialty stores or can be ordered online. Vinaigrettes, jellies, jams, hot sauces, barbecue sauces, ciders, and more can be found by doing an Internet search for "muscadine products."

In addition to tantalizing our taste buds, there is growing evidence that muscadines also do nice things for our hearts. Researchers have found that the compounds in muscadine seeds and skins help guard against coronary heart disease by supporting heart muscle health, controlling blood pressure, and even reducing the formation of plaque. Studies are also finding cholesterol-lowering and blood-sugar-regulating properties associated with phytochemicals found in muscadine byproducts.

The reason for these health benefits lies in what may turn out to be one of the best-kept secrets of the South. Muscadines, described as the "smarter grape," have an extra pair of chromosomes and, therefore, more genetic information than other grapes. They are able to thrive amid conditions to which their European cousins fall prey. In nature, antioxidants in the skins and seeds of the berries act as natural sunscreens, protecting them from ultraviolet radiation and warding off the insects, viruses, bacteria, and molds prevalent in the hot, humid conditions of the Southeast. While these compounds protect the fruit, medicinal value is passed on to those who partake of this chemical balance. For this reason, food supplement manufacturers are eagerly marketing these valuable byproducts.

Producing high-quality fruit requires year-round effort at Breckenridge. As the last berry is harvested, preparations for the next crop are already underway. Fertilization and liming are per formed during the fall and again in spring. "We're doing everything by the book," Phillips says. "Because the fruit's taste can vary with soil conditions, we try to maximize all the nutrients. It's all about quality fruit." When winter has turned the lush green vines to leafless brown, it's time to trim the plants. "We prune with tractors, and then we go back and hand-prune," explains Phillips. Each spur, where the individual berries are formed, must be trimmed to about eight inches in length to ensure a good yield for the next crop.

The emergence of spring once again transforms the plants into fast-growing vines that will begin producing fruit in June. Miles of irrigated vines form a canopy over soft white clover that supplies the nitrogen needed for plant growth. It's at this time of the year that Breckenridge is most beautiful. "It's a wonderful place to live and work and come home to," says Phillips.

Adding to this natural setting, the vineyard also serves as a wildlife refuge for deer, turkey, and quail. With a background in wildlife management, Phillips spends a portion of his time planting food plots and putting out grain. "We do a lot of controlled burning and plant corn, milo, and millet," he says. Although there's no hunting on the farm, there is good fishing in the five ponds scattered around the vineyard. Horses are also a part of the scenic view, and trail riders are welcome.

Peace and tranquility remain a way of life at Breckenridge in spite of the many exciting plans underway for the vineyard. Growers expect to harvest 2 million pounds of muscadines this year and 3 million in 2007. Phillips and his team are also considering hosting activities for the public--perhaps even a muscadine festival and grape stomp--at some point in the future. The future of America's first grape looks promising, with Mississippi leading the way.

Enjoy a few recipes for sweet treats made with muscadines:

MUSCADINE JELLY

  4 cups prepared muscadine juice
  8 cups sugar
  1 pouch liquid fruit pectin or
1/2 bottle liquid pectin

Combine muscadine juice and sugar in an 8-quart saucepan. Cook over high heat, stirring constantly. Bring quickly to a full rolling boil that cannot be stirred down. Stir in liquid pectin. Return to a full rolling boil, and boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. Skim off foam, and ladle quickly into clean, hot, sterile jars to within 1/4 inch of tops. Seal with hot lids.

MUSCADINE SYRUP

1 1/2 cups prepared muscadine juice
1 3/4 cups sugar
  1/3 cup light corn syrup
    1 teaspoon lemon juice

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a full rolling boil, and boil for 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and skim off foam. Ladle quickly into clean, sterile jars to within 1/4 inch of tops. Seal, then process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes. This is great with pancakes or waffles. Yield: 1 1/2 pints.

GRAPE DUMPLINGS

1 (12-ounce) package frozen
  dumplings
4 cups muscadine juice (use purple
  berries for more color)
Vanilla ice cream

Separate dumplings while frozen. Bring juice to a full rolling boil, and add dumplings one at a time, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking together. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 35-45 minutes or until tender. The dumplings will absorb the color and sweetness of the juice. Serve with vanilla ice cream. Drizzle juice from cooked dumplings on top of ice cream.

MUSCADINE PIE

    4 cups muscadines
    3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 1/2 cups sugar
    1 teaspoon lemon or lime juice
    1 tablespoon grated orange rind
    Covered or lattice-top pie crust
    2 tablespoons butter
    Vanilla ice cream or whipped cream
      for topping

Separate muscadine hulls from pulp. Heat pulp to a boil, and simmer for 5 minutes. Press pulp through a strainer to separate pulp from seeds. Discard seeds, and mix hulls with pulp.

Mix flour and sugar. Blend with hulls and pulp. Add lemon or lime juice and orange rind. Pour mixture into bottom crust. Add top crust, and brush with butter. Bake in a preheated 425-degree oven for 40 minutes. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

MUSCADINE CHEESECAKE PIE

  2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese,
    softened
3/4 cup sugar
  2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
  1 (8-ounce) carton sour cream
  2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Beat cream cheese until fluffy. Add sugar, eggs, and almond extract. Beat until thoroughly mixed. Pour into a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate. Bake for 30-35 minutes in a preheated 350-degree oven. Cool. Mix together sour cream, sugar, and vanilla, and spread on top of baked mixture. Return to oven for 10 minutes. When cool, top with Fruit Glaze. Refrigerate before serving.

FRUIT GLAZE:

  4 cups red muscadines
1/4 cup sugar
  1 tablespoon tapioca

Cover muscadines with water, and cook for 10-15 minutes. Remove skins and seeds by pressing through a sieve. Mix pulp and juice from mashed berries with sugar and tapioca. Cook until thick. Cool, and spread on top of pie.

Vine lines

Muscadines grown at Breckenridge include:

CULTIVAR NAME   FRUIT COLOR   SIZE         USE

Carlos          Bronze        Medium       Juice products
Doreen          Bronze        Medium       Juice products
Magnolia        Bronze        Medium       Juice products
Summit          Bronze        Large        Fresh fruit or recipes
Fry             Bronze        Large        Fresh fruit or recipes
Noble           Red           Small        jelly and jam, pies, glazes
Jumbo           Red           Very large   Fresh fruit or recipes