Going Solo.

Black designers unveil the trials and triumphs of business ownership

You may call them hardheaded, obstinate, inflexible or just plain stubborn. These labels are placed on designers who dare to tackle a new business venture when all of the signs before them read: "Stop!" "Dead end!" "Wrong way!"

Experts in the fashion industry wonder why some designers won't heed their They say there are some strong indicators--fewer financial resources, a reduced interest in tailored, custom-made clothing and increasing reluctance among department stores to take on newcomers--that dictate that designers choose employment over entrepreneurship.

Still, some black designers are forging ahead with plans to put their labels on the map, insisting that they'll overcome the odds. Here are the trials and triumphs of six black designers who dare to single-handedly ride the storms of today's challenging fashion market.

Francis Hendy Inc. * New York, NY * 212-354-4764

You've probably seen Francis Hendy's work on the backs of a number of popular singing artists, including Busta Rhymes, Missy Elliot. Jermaine Dupri. Faith Evans and Genuwine. For the last four years, the 45-year-old has been designing leather, suede and denim suits, as well as futuristic costumes for R&B and rap music videos--a skill that he honed while creating exotic costumes for Brooklyn's Caribbean Day Parade. After becoming the costumer of choice for videos. Hendy's sales jumped from $80,000 in 1996 to more than $500,000 today.

The firm's growth, however, did not happen without some sacrifices. Francis Hendy Inc. was relocated from its Brooklyn location to mid-Manhattan because his celebrity customers needed a more convenient accessible location. In addition, the work is extremely labor-intensive, and Hendy, along with his team of seven sewers, often stay overnight to process the last-minute orders that are typical of the business. It's also difficult for Hendy to increase his clientele. "I meet a lot of storeowners, hut I have to pick and choose because I'm not set up to do big orders," he admits.

Epperson Studio * New York, NY * 212-226-3181

A walk through the SoHo section of New York City might lead you to Epperson Studio, a retailer that specializes in made-to-measure clothing, along with a line of off-the-rack Epperson Basic that is influenced by styles from India, Africa and Asia. Prices range from $65 to $1,200, and items include cross-stitched tops, high-waisted patchwork and classic A-line skirts, tie-waist pants, princess dresses and custom-crafted beaded jewelry, The process: customers select items from the store's array of samples, then the owners take their measurements and whip up garments that fit perfectly. At this rate, inventory is very low--typically about five of one item at any given time--and each item is unique. As you might imagine, the personalized service that distinguishes this boutique from other retailers is quite labor-intensive and that precludes it from taking on large wholesale accounts. But that's not a problem for Epperson's owners. "Our goal is not to be mass produced," Lisha Epperson contends "We want our business to grow, but we also want to maintain some of the specialness of our merchandise."

Everette Hall * Washington, DC * 202-467-003 * 202-362-0191

Everette Hall pioneered a new specialty in the fashion arena when he started targeting athletes. "My clothes worked well for them, and they are proud to support a black designer," he says. His intuition is paying off as sales revenues climbed to more than $3 million last year, The designer has two retail boutiques in the D.C. area, sells to more than 50 specialty stores nationwide and enjoys worldwide distribution with Lubiam 1911, one of Italy's oldest and most respected manufacturers. In addition, Hall was recently inducted into the Council of Fashion Designers of America, next to industry heavyweights Bill Blass, Calvin Klein and Donna Karan. And he's a regular fixture on Style with Elsa Klensch on CNN, a fashion program seen by more than 20 million households worldwide. Despite Hall's long list of accomplishments, the major department stores still won't give his line any floor space. He says, "It's hard for buyers to see beyond my skin color. They think of me as a black guy that can only sell to black consumers."

Edwin Hall * Silver Springs, MD * 301-588-6223

Edwin Hall worked with his brother Everett Hall for 15 years before he broke into the industry with his own line. Now the Edwin Hall Style 2001 collection showcases high-end suits and sportswear. Prices for business suits range from $995 to $1,200. The sportswear starts at $250. His clients include business professionals as well as celebrity athletes. "It's a collection that you would find on New York's Fifth Avenue," he proclaims. Unfortunately the half million dollar company hasn't been able to penetrate the high-end retailers because "the perception is that when the [department store's] buyers purchase any product they think it will only sell to African Americans. But the clothing is for everyone."

Torrel Harris * Unique Sports * Uniondale, NY * 516-229-2310

After leaving his job as a sports agent, Torrel Harris reentered the arena by introducing reversible warm-up suits for athletes in 1991. The apparel, which includes items licensed by the National Basketball Association and the National Football League, generated $3 million in sales last year. And Harris was able to build brand recognition by participating in trade shows, advertising in magazines and pumping radio advertisements. But all of these activities burned cash. "Booths at [trade shows] can cost a minimum of $2,500 each Plus, you have to fly their and stay in a hotel," he remembers. He says it was his creativity that helped him stay afloat. "I picked the stores that I wanted to be in and invited their buyers to stop by my booth. We also got our clothes in videos television shows and hosted fashion shows. The big thing is that we were, and continue to be, consistent."

Valerie Mapp * Knottitude * New York, NY * 888-239-KNOT

Valerie Mapp has developed a new line of travel sportswear with no buttons, zippers or snaps. Knottitude produces eight pieces of washable, wrinkle-free clothing that wearers knot up for comfort and style. The company has accumulated almost $200,000 in sales since 1996. The suggested retail price for the collection ranges from $250 to $300. To meet the production demands of the 100 stores she services nationwide, Mapp uses a college student assistant who works hourly, several high school interns who work for car fare and lunch money, and deals with several subcontractors, including a cutting house in Chinatown and four freelance sewers. For extra help, Mapp relies on the expertise of friends who often donate their time to assist her in design, production, public relations, and sales and marketing. Still, these resources don't alleviate all of Mapp's financial challenges, and that's why 90% of her sales are cash on delivery (c.o.d.). "The larger department stores wouldn't entertain c.o.d, sales at all," she admits. "But I can't afford to wait anywhere from 30 to 100 days to get my money, i don't even take a salary for myself because I'm putting money back in the business."