Going Grey: backstage with Grey Ant--L.A. designer Grant Krajecki--at his first New York Fashion Week show.Grant Krajecki began designing in high school, in the gloriously overwrought o·ver·wrought
1. Excessively nervous or excited; agitated.
2. Extremely elaborate or ornate; overdone: overwrought prose style. days of the mid '80s, when women's shoulders were padded like linebackers'. Later, a move to Los Angeles Los Angeles (lôs ăn`jələs, lŏs, ăn`jəlēz'), city (1990 pop. 3,485,398), seat of Los Angeles co., S Calif.; inc. 1850. from Chicago offered the opportunity to design costumes for soft-core porn films, a gig that put his imagination into high gear and demolished any barriers of conformity.
By 1998, Krajecki had started his own line, Grey Ant, a play on his name and a moniker (1) A name, title or alias. See alias.
(2) A COM object that is used to create instances of other objects. Monikers save programmers time when coding various types of COM-based functions such as linking one document to another (OLE). See COM and OLE. that has since become a siren call for Los Angeles's fashion-savvy hipsters. Such celebs as Beck and director Miranda July have become devotees of Krajecki's perfectly tailored designs, clothes that somehow strike a chord of individuality without wearing the wearer.
"When people ask what my inspiration is, it's difficult to answer," Krajecki says. "I've run out of lies for that question. Suffice it to say, I always just ask myself, Would Siouxsie Sioux or Kate Bush wear this? If the answer is yes, I move ahead from there."
Grey Ant has enjoyed being the one to watch, in all the right stores and on all the right backs, with raves in the press and several successful runway shows--in Los Angeles. The one thing missing has been the affirmation of a New York Fashion Week New York Fashion Week is a semiannual fashion week held in New York City. History
The first New York Fashion Week, then called Press Week, was the world's first organized fashion week. debut.
You won't see these clothes till spring, but The Advocate has a first look at the Grey Ant line and all that goes into a successful runway show.
September 14, noon: Six hours to show-time, and it's drizzling, humid, and gray--an East Coast Indian summer. Inside the echoing, high-ceilinged Altman Building in Chelsea, it's weirdly quiet. Boxes of clothes are carried downstairs to the dressing area, hairdressers plug in curling irons, and Krajecki stands, giving directions in a soft voice. Upstairs, choreographer Ryan Heffington and the Los Angeles--based Hysterica Dance Company rehearse. Krajecki has made the unorthodox decision to use not just models but also dancers for his New York New York, state, United States
New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of show. "I've worked with Hysterica many times," says Krajecki. "I love watching dancers in movement, and I wanted to share that."
2 P.M.: The models have begun to arrive. They are impossibly tall, impossibly thin--just the right shape for Krajecki's astounding a·stound
tr.v. a·stound·ed, a·stound·ing, a·stounds
To astonish and bewilder. See Synonyms at surprise.
[From Middle English astoned, past participle of astonen, new line of denim--long, straight-legged jeans with braided braid·ed
a. Produced by or as if by braiding.
b. Having braids.
2. Decorated with braid.
3. waist-bands, dyed deep blue and tailored with precision. The rest of the racks are filled with soft cotton tops, dresses, and knickers, some frayed delicately at the edges.
Krajecki straddles both ends of the spectrum in addition to the loose, bohemian shapes, there are some truly audacious pieces. The highlight is the bathing suits, cut high in the leg and rear, with suspender-like straps that lead to (get this!) mid-cut sleeves buoyed by massive shoulder pads. It is the perfect balance of the over-the-top and the subtly defiant.
4 P.M.: The room is hot. The mood, however, is cool and calm. A model offers Krajecki a Xanax, but he politely declines. There is none of the chaos one might expect at a first-time New York show. Hair-stylists manipulate locks into crimped crimped
said of grain that has been passed through corrugated rollers after previous exposure to moist heat so that the grain is fractured but there is a minimum of dust. and curled Afros--Barbra Streisand Star Is Born style. Heffington is sitting on the floor, quietly gluing white fringe to the masks the dancers will wear for their opening number. Makeup has just begun--pink cheeks appear under neatly defined eyebrows. Hangers-on dive into the buffet and the complimentary Budweiser. Cameras flash. Krajecki fits a male dancer in a pink cotton dress with a whimsical print--a pattern of kitty cats and among them a recurring line drawing of Grace Jones with a rat in her mouth.
6 P.M.: Things are running late and no one seems to care. The models are nearly dressed. The dancers have rehearsed a few times. Outside on the sidewalk is a line around the block. The buzz on the show has been deafening, and it will be standing room only. Tastemakers are there in force--the fashion photographer Ellen von Unwerth Ellen von Unwerth (born 1954 in Germany) is a photographer and director, specializing in erotic femininity. She worked as a fashion model for ten years herself before moving behind the camera, and now makes fashion, editorial, and advertising photographs. ; editors from Vogue and The New York Times; a few front seats are saved for Shirley Manson of Garbage. Umbrellas hover above stylishly dressed bodies, the line for the fashion show a fashion show in itself.
7 P.M.: The room is packed. The lights go dim, and all is silent. Then the droning, thrusting beats of Work ring out. Suddenly the lights go up and Hysterica's dancers, dressed in Grey Ant, explode into a high-energy, ambisexual ambisexual /am·bi·sex·u·al/ (am?bi-sek´shoo-al)
2. pertaining to or characterized by hermaphroditism.
3. denoting sexual characteristics common to both sexes, e.g., pubic hair. dance. Even New Yorkers are surprised--mouths gape, eyes widen.
The dance ends, the sounds of Aphex Twin takes over, and the models begin to walk in slow and graceful pairs down the runway. There are approving glances from the rows of onlookers. Pencils scribble scribble - To modify a data structure in a random and unintentionally destructive way. "Bletch! Somebody's disk-compactor program went berserk and scribbled on the i-node table." "It was working fine until one of the allocation routines scribbled on low core. on pads. The models stop, vamp, turn, walk. The lights go low again, and Hysterica's members are back, some now clad in the gravity-defying spandex, shoulder-padded bathing suits, some (the men) in pretty, flouncy dresses. They dive into the final routine, involving high jumps and bodies writhing against bodies--all of it sexy, wonderful, and elating e·late
tr.v. e·lat·ed, e·lat·ing, e·lates
To make proud or joyful: Her success elated the family.
Elated. to watch. This is a hot taste of desert heat, dusty palms, Tinseltown glee, and pure Angeleno exuberance glowing like a Malibu sunset in the New York gloom.
The dance ends, and the crowd roars, a little dazed daze
tr.v. dazed, daz·ing, daz·es
1. To stun, as with a heavy blow or shock; stupefy.
2. To dazzle, as with strong light.
A stunned or bewildered condition. but nonetheless impressed. After a moment, Krajecki comes out and makes the small, neat, confident bow of a conqueror. Ducking backstage quickly, he breathes an enormous sigh of relief. "I'm glad it's over, but it went as planned, and I'm pleased," he says quietly. "This is the fashion capital of America, and it would be weak not to aim for a show here."
Suddenly, he grins. "But I don't plan on stopping here in New York," he says slyly. "The world is a very big place."
Hundley is a writer and filmmaker living in Los Angeles and a contributor for the Los Angeles Times Los Angeles Times
Morning daily newspaper. Established in 1881, it was purchased and incorporated in 1884 by Harrison Gray Otis (1837–1917) under The Times-Mirror Co. (the hyphen was later dropped from the name). , Premiere magazine, and Spin.