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Glitzy makeover for maligned fry.


Wine and cheese is certainly a staple pairing, but what about wine and french fries?

At BOA boa (bō`ə), name for live-bearing constrictor snakes of the family Boidae, found mostly in the Americas. This family, which also comprises the egg-laying pythons of the Old World, includes the largest of all snakes, as well as many smaller  Steakhouse in Santa Monica Santa Monica (săn`tə mŏn`ĭkə), city (1990 pop. 86,905), Los Angeles co., S Calif., on Santa Monica Bay; inc. 1886. Tourism and retailing are important, and the city has motion-picture, biotechnology, and software industries. , general manager Kevin Travis advises customers to take the culinary leap. He suggests coupling the restaurant's truffle truffle (trŭf`əl) [Fr.], subterranean edible fungus that forms a mutually beneficial (symbiotic) relationship with the roots of certain trees and plants. The part of the fungus used as food is the ascoma, the fruiting body of the fungus.  cheese fries with a nice Syrah or an Italian wine Italy is one of the oldest wine regions in the world. Etruscans and Greek settlers produced wine in the country long before the Romans started developing their own vineyards in the second century BC. .

"I would go for something meaty and spicy, especially with the truffles, with the richness of the food," said Travis.

And diners are beginning to take Travis up on his high-carbohydrate offer, thanks largely to the decline of the Atkins diet Atkins Diet Definition

The Atkins diet is a high-protein, high-fat, and very low-carbohydrate regimen. It emphasizes meat, cheese, and eggs, while discouraging foods such as bread, pasta, fruit, and sugar. It is a form of ketogenic diet.
 craze.

"Definitely in the last four to five months, I have been starting to see more of an increase in dishes like that gaining in popularity. Before that, dishes like that would sit there on the menu, now the same ones are exploding," Travis said.

At Agoura Hills steakhouse Chapter 8, executive chef Eddy Shin said sales of potatoes at the restaurant were at an all-time low two years ago, but potatoes have made a decided comeback since then.

With the appeal of Atkins fading, Shin and Travis said that Angelenos' diets have changed to accommodate potatoes. "People are tired of doing the same old routine, and they are seeing with their diets, it is not about cutting things totally out, it is more about moderation," said Travis.

The interest in potato dishes has given restaurants room to create innovative concoctions. At Chapter 8, there are eight kinds of such dishes available, including fries with parmesan cheese and garlic salt, twice-baked truffle potatoes, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, and potatoes au gratin.

Shin's favorite is the twice-baked truffle potato. The insides of the potato are infused with truffle pieces and truffle oil, and then poured into an empty potato skin, which is re-baked for 20 minutes.

BOA added the $9 truffle fries appetizer and $13 "nachos" made with Yukon Gold potato Yukon Gold is a variety of potato closely akin to the Yellow Finn. Unlike the Yellow Finn, Yukon Golds are larger, with golden, buttery-tasting waxy flesh. This potato is best served boiled or baked.  chips and black truffle cheese just a few months ago.

"These are different from the bland (dishes.) With the truffle cheese, it adds that sophistication so·phis·ti·cate  
v. so·phis·ti·cat·ed, so·phis·ti·cat·ing, so·phis·ti·cates

v.tr.
1. To cause to become less natural, especially to make less naive and more worldly.

2.
 to the dish," said Travis.

So much for the lowly spud.
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Title Annotation:changing food habits
Comment:Glitzy makeover for maligned fry.(changing food habits)
Author:Brown, Rachel
Publication:Los Angeles Business Journal
Geographic Code:1USA
Date:Mar 6, 2006
Words:345
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