Gingerly speaking.

Gin is experiencing a revival as mixologists and cocktail lovers rediscover the spirit's varied and complex flavor profile. While classic cocktails laregly are responsible for its return, gin also is versatile and works well in modern cocktails.

For more on the gin landscape, see "Character Builder" on page 24.

GINGER, MY GREEN FAIRY

Dan Warrilow, sommelier at BLT Steak is Los Angeles, recently developed this ginger-flavored signature cocktail.

2 oz. Damrak Gin
1 oz. Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur
1/2 oz. Lucid Absinthe
1 oz. fresh lemon juice
1/2 oz. simple syrup
1/2 oz. club soda

Combine all ingredients except club soda in a mixing glass. Shake well, add club soda and serve on the rocks.

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GIN DELICIOUS

Portland, Ore.-based McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurants offers this drink on its "History of the American Cocktail" menu.

3 sprigs fresh mint
1/2 oz. simple syrup
3/4 oz. fresh lime juice
1 1/2 oz. Beefeater Gin Splash of soda

Add two mint sprigs, simple syrup and lime juice to a cocktail shaker. Lightly bruise with a muddler. Add gin and fill with ice, shaking vigorously for five seconds. Strain into a Martini glass with a super fine sugar rim. Garnish with a fresh mint sprig.

COTTON MOUTH

Mixologist Sandi King and Bill Schack, general manager at the Applebee's in Tallahassee, Fla., developed this Margarita variant for guests who do not like tequila.

1 1/4 oz. Tanqueray Gin
3/4 oz. Grand Marnier
2 oz. sour mix
Splash of pomegranate juice 1 lemon twist for garnish

Shake in mixing tin and serve in a Martini glass or over ice. Garnish with a lemon twist.

GIN MASALA 

Those looking for a cocktail with the flavors of India will want to try this exotic concoction created by Tom Pittakas, beverage director at Alison two in Port Washington, Pa.

1 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. sweet curry powder
1 tsp. cardamom
1 tsp. toasted fennel
2 1/2 oz. gin

Crystallized ginger for garnish

Cocktail: Shake gin and spiced simple syrup in a mixing glass with ice. Strain and serve straight-up in a coupe glass with crystallized ginger as garnish. Spiced simple syrup: Mix sugar, curry powder, cardamom and fennel with 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, reduce temperature and let simmer for roughly five minutes. Strain through a coffee filter once cool.

THE QUEEN OF SHEBA 

Developed for an Ethiopian restaurant, this simple yet elegant cocktail created by mixology consultant Herb Westphalen reflects the gifts of gold and exotic spices Queen Sheba gave King Solomon.

2 1/2 oz. Quintessential Gin
1/2 cup caster sugar
1/2 tsp. turmeric
3 nuggets crystallized ginger for garnish

Cocktail: In a shaker with ice, mix gin and turmeric simple syrup. Strain into a Martini glass and drop in ginger garnish. Turmeric simple syrup: Mix 1/2 cup boiling water with caster sugar and turmeric. Let cool.

RELATED ARTICLE: GINGER JUBILEE

This seasonal cocktail was developed by H. Joseph Ehrmann, mixologist and proprietor at Elixir in San Francisco.

2 oz. Bluecoat Gin
1/2 oz. honey
1/2 oz. fresh ginger, chopped
1/4 cup Bing cherries (reserve one for garnish)
1/4 cup blueberries

Muddle ginger, cherries and blueberries in a mixing glass. Add gin and honey, then fill with ice. Shake vigorously for 10 seconds and double fine strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a cherry on the rim.

CALL FOR RECIPES!

Cheers is looking for innovative and original cocktail recipes that highlight acai. Please specify ingredient quantities (oz., tsp., etc.). Send recipes to Cheers Drinks Department, 17 High Street, Norwalk, CT 06851 or email [e-mail].