Ginger spice of the ages.

For centuries, coveted by Chinese and Indian cooks, ginger has been revered in many European and North American kitchens, becoming more popular in the last few decades. Forming the basis for innumerable dishes, this seasoning is employed on a large scale in almost every country. A good number of cooks say that the secret of the world-renowned Chinese cuisine is this condiment which some have labeled "spice of the ages."

Besides gingerbread and ginger ale, ginger beer, ginger brandy, ginger coffee, ginger tea, ginger wine, candied ginger and countless other ginger products have become part of our daily lives. In recent years, the Indian proverb which says that "every good quality is found in ginger" has been taken to heart in many parts of the world.

In ancient Eastern lands, the peppery biting taste of ginger has been appreciated since before biblical times. It was mentioned by Confucius in the 5th century B.C. and is believed to have been brought by the Arabs to the Greek city-states a few centuries later and in subsequent years to the Roman world. This led the Roman historian Pliny to mistakenly state that ginger was native to Arabia.

First cultivated in southeastern Asia, it was among the first spices introduced into Europe. However, for hundreds of years it remained a rare and expensive commodity. The ginger plant was one of the wonders Marco Polo found in 13th century China, and in Medieval Europe, a pound of ginger could buy a sheep. One of the few spices to enter English literature, it was mentioned by Chaucer in his works while Shakespeare wrote in King Henry V, "He's of the color of nutmeg and the heat of ginger."

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First introduced by the Spanish, ginger was among the first spices cultivated in the New World. Now grown extensively in the Caribbean, Central America, China, India, Indonesia and West Africa, ginger, which derives its name from the Sanskirt sringavera (shaped like a horn), is the root of a perennial herb of the genus zingiber. Cultivated for its edible potato-like root, the plant thrives in tropical climates. It grows up to three- feet high with wide erect leaves shooting up from the tuberous underground roots.

When the plant is about nine months old, the rhizomes or roots, which in the spice trade are called "hands," are harvested, washed and sun dried. The most important of the several varieties of ginger rhizomes have a light brown skin and when peeled or scraped, their flesh is creamy-yellow to light green in color. Juicy, hot and fibrous, it has a pungent flavor and a refreshing sharpness with a somewhat sweet taste. To many culinary artists, ginger is more fragrant, richer and pervasive than any other herb or spice. Its aromatic oil gives it a unique inviting aroma.

In the past, ginger was not only used in foods but also as a medicine. It was part of external home remedies such as compresses and utilized as an ingredient in medical preparations. For thousands of years, known to the Chinese as the "Gift of God," it was mentioned in China's first Pharmacopoeia, Pen Tsao Ching, written in the midst of time, and in "Ayurvedic," an ancient medical science of India, it is the base of many medicines.

According to R. Landry in The Gentle Art of Flavoring, ginger was included in the pharmacopoeia of the Arabs. King Henry VIII of England believed that it could cure the plague, and the Indians have long made a paste which they believe keeps away scurvy. For generations, herb doctors have believed that it fortifies the chest and have prescribed ginger tea for arthritis, colds and flu, leprosy, tetanus land digestive problems.

In Asia, ginger is believed to warm the blood and hence act as an aphrodisiac. For thousands of years, it has been used externally and internally to increase sexual powers. In some countries women rub ginger on their bodies or eat gingerbread men to attract the opposite sex. In some cultures, a concoction of the spice is prenared to increase virility and combat impotence.

Containing calcium, carotene, cellulose, iron, lime, pentosan, protein, starch, vitamins B and C, and a small quantity of volatile oil--a fixed oil with high-flavored resinous matter--ginger has digestive properties and is useful as a salt substitute. It alleviates the painful swelling of arthritis and helps relieve colds, flu and headaches, inflammation, chest congestion, upset stomach, nausea and motion sickness; and is a good stimulant and carminative--it stimulates blood circulation and is much used for dyspepsia and colic. Its pungency and sapid flavor awakens the appetite and disguises the taste of nauseous medicines.

Ginger is sold fresh, canned, dried, ground, pickled or powdered, crystallized and preserved. Most types can be found in Oriental or Mediterranean markets and the majority of supermarkets.

The best fresh ginger comes from India and Jamaica, and is much sought after by gourmet cooks. When the raw product is stored, it keeps well in a refrigerator for a few weeks. However, if to be kept for a long period of time, the roots should be peeled, wrapped in plastic or foil and then frozen. At the time of use, the amount needed can be grated off the rhizomes and the remainder returned to the freezer.

Fresh ginger is much superior to the well-known dried, ground product. The powdered spice can be substituted for the fresh. It is one of the most versatile of all seasonings and widely used in an endless range of foods.

One of the most important uses of ground ginger in western cooking is in the making of gingerbread--the oldest sweet cake in the world, according to a number of historians. The Greeks are credited with inventing this dessert, which in the Mediterranean area became known as melitate. Through the ages, it became popular to make this cake in fanciful shapes like animals, birds, humans, houses and letters of the alphabet. In some communities, a host/hostess can bestow no greater honor than to bake a gingerbread cake for his/her guest.

Peeled sliced ginger in cans can also be utilized in place of the fresh, but it is not as favorable. Whole dried roots are used for pickles and chutneys while preserved or candied ginger which is the fresh rhizomes cooked in syrup, are utilized as confections or condiments. For stir-fry dishes and salad dressings, a juice obtained by squeezing fresh ginger through a garlic press, gives these foods a delectable flavoring.

Ginger in all its forms can be employed as a seasoning in a great number of foods and beverages. A tasty aromatic rootstock, it adds an exotic touch and zest to appetizers, bakery products, curries, jams, marinades, pickles, preserves, puddings, sauces, soups, stews, drinks and all types of fruits, meats and vegetables. Imbuing foods with a mouth-watering tang, this spice of the ages has become an essential ingredient in the kitchens of the world.

Ginger Yogurt Dip

    1 cup plain yogurt
  1/4 cup pulverized almonds
    2 tablespoons finely chopped green
      onions
    2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
      coriander leaves or parsley
    1 tablespoon finely grated fresh
      ginger root
    1 tablespoon olive oil
    1 clove garlic, crushed
  1/4 teaspoon salt
  1/4 teaspoon pepper
  1/8 teaspoon cayenne
    1 small tomato, finely chopped

Thoroughly combine all ingredients,
except tomato, in a mixing bowl,
transfer to a serving platter. Decorate
with tomato, serve with crackers.

Ginger Chicken and Noodle Soup
Serves 8 to 10

    4 tablespoons cooking oil
1-1/2 pounds boneless chicken, cut
      into small pieces
    1 small hot pepper, finely chopped
    3 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
      root
1-1/2 cups finely chopped green
      onions
    4 cloves garlic, crushed
    1 teaspoon paprika
    1 teaspoon salt
  1/2 teaspoon pepper
    7 cups water
    1 cup fine noodles, broken into small
      pieces
    4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
      coriander leaves

Heat oil in a saucepan, saut6
chicken and hot pepper over medium/low
heat for 10 minutes. Add
ginger and stir-fry for 2 minutes,
stir in remaining ingredients, except
the noodles and coriander leaves,
and bring to boil. Cover, cook over
medium heat for 50 minutes. Stir
in noodles and re-cover, cook for 15
minutes, adding more water if necessary.
Stir in coriander leaves, serve.

Ginger Flavored Chickpea and
Tomato Stew

Serves 8

    2 cups chickpeas, soaked overnight
      in 9 cups water and 1/4 teaspoon baking
      soda
    4 tablespoons olive oil
    2 medium onions, finely chopped

    1 small hot pepper, finely chopped
    6 cloves garlic, crushed
    2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
      root
    2 cups stewed tomatoes
    4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
      coriander leaves or parsley
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
    1 teaspoon paprika
    1 teaspoon ground cumin
  1/2 teaspoon pepper

Place chickpeas with their water
in a large saucepan then bring to boil.
Cover, cook over medium heat for
1 to 1-1/2 hours or until chickpeas
are done.

In the meantime, heat oil in a frying
pan, saute onions and hot pepper
over medium/low heat for 10 minutes,
then stir in garlic and ginger and
stir-fry for 3 minutes. Add frying pan
contents and remaining ingredients
to chickpeas; bring to a boil. Cover
and cook over medium heat for 15
minutes, serve hot or cold.

Ginger Flavored Peas

Serves about 4

    2 tablespoons olive oil
    2 medium onions, chopped
  1/2 small hot pepper, finely
      chopped
    2 cloves garlic, crushed
1-1/2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
 root
    1 pkg. frozen peas (1 lb.)
  1/2 teaspoon salt
  1/4 teaspoon pepper
    1 cup water

Heat oil in a saucepan, saute onions
and hot pepper over medium/
low heat for 10 minutes. Add garlic
and ginger, stir-fry for 3 minutes. Stir
m remaining ingredients; bring to a
boil. Cover and cook over medium
heat for 25 minutes or until most of
the liquid has evaporated and the
peas are done. Serve hot or cold.

Eggplant and Lentil Stew

Serves about 8

6 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small hot pepper, finely chopped
1 medium (about 11b.) eggplant,
  peeled and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
  root
4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
  coriander leaves
4 medium tomatoes, finely
  chopped
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon cumin
1 cup lentils, rinsed

Heat oil in a frying pan, stir-fry
onion, garlic, hot pepper, eggplant
and ginger over medium heat for 3
minutes, adding more oil if necessary.
Stir in coriander leaves and tomatoes,
stir-fry for 5 minutes. Stir in remaining
ingredients, bring to a boil. Cover
cook over medium heat for 50
minutes or until the lentils are well
cooked, adding more water if necessary.
Serve hot or cold.

Ginger Fish Fillet

Serves 4 to 6

  2 pounds boneless fish fillet
1/4 cup grapefruit juice
  3 tablespoons cooking oil
  1 cup chopped green onions
  4 cloves garlic, crushed
  4 tablespoons finely chopped flesh
    coriander leaves
  2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
    root
  1 teaspoon ground mustard
  1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

Place fish fillet evenly in a greased
casserole then set aside.

Combine remaining ingredients
in a bowl then spoon evenly over fish
fillet. Bake in a 350[degrees]F preheated oven
for 35 minutes or until fish is done,
basting a few times with pan juices.
Serve with pan juice and mashed
potatoes or cooked rice.

Ginger Flavored Baked Fish

Serves about 6

  1 white or similar type fish, from 3
    to 4 pounds
1/2 head garlic, peeled and crushed
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh coriander
    leaves
  4 tablespoons cooking oil
  2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
    root
  2 tablespoons lemon juice
  1 teaspoon salt
  1 teaspoon pepper
  1 teaspoon turmeric
1/4 teaspoon cayenne

Scale and clean, wash fish and
set aside.

Place remaining ingredients
in a food processor, process into a
paste.

Place fish on a piece of aluminum
foil then rub inside and outside of fish
with paste. Wrap fish with aluminum
foil, place in a baking pan. Bake in a
350[degrees]F preheated oven for 35 minutes,
remove foil and serve hot.

Ginger Flavored Moroccan Style
Chicken and Raisin Stew

Serves 4

  4 tablespoons butter
  1 lb. boneless chicken, cut into small
    pieces
  1 cup finely chopped parsley
  2 medium onions, chopped
  2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 small hot pepper, finely
    chopped
  1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
    root
  1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon salt
  3 cups water
1/2 cup raisins, rinsed

Melt butter in a saucepan then
saute chicken pieces over medium/
low heat for 5 minutes. Stir in remaining
ingredients, except water and
raisins, stir-fry for 5 minutes. Add
water and bring to a boil, cover and
cook over medium heat for 30 minutes.
Add raisins and re-cover, cook
for 20 minutes, adding more water if
necessary.

Ginger Honey Muffins

Makes 12 muffins

  1/2 cup butter
  1/2 cup honey
  1/2 cup water
    1 egg, beaten
  1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1-3/4 cups flour
    3 teaspoons baking powder
1-1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
  1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Place the butter, honey, water,
egg and almond extract in a food
processor, process for a minute and
set aside.

Combine remaining ingredients
in a mixing bowl, gradually add food
processor's contents, thoroughly
mixing with each addition, adding
a little water if necessary. Place in
well-greased muffin trays 2/3 full,
bake in a 350[degrees]F preheated oven for
25 minutes.

Gingerbread Cake

    1 cup yogurt
    1 cup honey
  1/2 cup butter
    1 egg, beaten
    2 cups flour
    3 teaspoons baking powder
2 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
  1/2 teaspoon baking soda

Place the yogurt, honey, butter
and egg in a food processor, process
for a minute and set aside.

Combine remaining ingredients
in a mixing bowl, gradually add
food processor contents, mixing into
a smooth paste. Pour into a well-greased
baking pan, bake in a 350[degrees]F
preheated oven for 35 minutes.

Ginger Tea

Makes about 4 cups

A very racy and full-bodied drink,
ginger tea is also a satisfying and
healthy beverage.

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
  root
2 tablespoons honey
1 cinnamon stick, about 3 inches
  long
4 whole cloves
5 cups water

Place all ingredients in a pot,
bring to a boil. Cover, simmer over
medium/low heat for 30 minutes.
Strain into cups and serve.

Arab Ginger Coffee

    3 tablespoons pulverized coffee
    2 tablespoons brown sugar
2-1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
    2 cups water

Place all ingredients in a small coffee
pot and stir then bring to a boil.
Remove from heat until boiling dies
down, then return to boil and repeat
two more times. Serve in demitasse
cups.

BY HABEEB SALLOUM

CANADA