Getaway: A Tale of Two Hawaiis

Two areas on the Big Island of Hawaii represent a study in contrasts, but both are highly recommended for those seeking relaxation and escape.

Tourists flock to the Kona Coast for its "hidden" feel, particularly Kona Village Resort, an ultrasecluded enclave where there's no need to dress up for dinner or even wear socks. There's no reason to lock your hale (which means thatch-roofed bungalow), and coconuts act as "Do Not Disturb" signs. Though you can use your devices in your hale, speaking on cell phones and using laptops in any public area is forbidden. Walks on the pristine beaches lead to tidal pools filled with moray eels. At the resort, ancient petroglyphs tell the storybook history of the island. Surrounding the resort, black volcanic rock is decorated with coral, which passersby use to spell out romantic messages — "Crystal + Jim," or "Lani loves Robert," a kind of harmless and temporary island-style graffiti. Its lack of permanence is fitting for this island, which is ever evolving, forming from the volcanic activity and the sculpting ocean. It's the quintessential spot to forget the mainland and embrace the maritime. Small regional touches — macadamia nut shampoo and Kona coffee — really add to the luxury of the experience.

Across the island is Hilo, where the servers and most of the customers are salt-of-the earth Hawaiians, not tourists who've come to dine in paradise. It rains most days in Hilo — 270 days a year brings in an average of 100 inches. Not that tourism is a nonentity here. There are plenty of reasons to visit east Hawaii , and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is at the top of the list. With its visible lava, steam, jagged cracks and craters and the active volcano Kilauea, the park attracts 1.6 million visitors each year. They come to walk through the dark and cool tubes made by the hot and invasive path of lava. Native Hawaiians come here to pay homage to Pele, the volcano goddess who is said to live in Hale Ma'uma'u crater. Another home of Pele is Mauna Loa, the world's largest active volcano, one of three on the island.

KONA WHERE TO STAY For romance and beauty, Kona Village Resort, [phone], konavillage.com. WHAT TO DO The resort's hotel and amenities will fill your schedule. Snorkel, play tennis, swim, fish and relax. WHERE TO EAT Hale Moana and Hale Samoa serve fresh seafood at the resort. On Wednesday and Friday, check out the luau, which features award-winning aha'aina at Hale Ho'okipa.

HILO WHERE TO STAY If you're looking for small and romantic, go to The Palms Cliff House, [phone], palmscliffhouse.com. For more standard accommodations try the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel, [phone], castleresorts.com/hhh. WHAT TO DO Visit the Hilo Farmers Market on Wednesday and Saturday in downtown Hilo. Check out Mauna Loa Macadamia Nuts, [phone], maunaloa.com. Drive and hike around Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, [phone], nps.gov/havo. WHERE TO EAT Do not leave Hilo without visiting Ken's House of Pancakes, [phone]. Dine on fresh seafood and other creative fare at Hilo Bay Cafe, [phone].